Hi everyone! This is my first post and am getting ready to make a purchase soon. I am seriously considering the L3800 for my 2 acre property (mostly flat) to do some post holes, move rocks, make gravel roads and also small 1/2 acre of gardening, hobby farming. My biggest concern is our ground in the Nevada desert is hard and I will mostly be moving a lot of rock and gravel for my roads and moving some pallets of misc stuff for landscaping, cement bags etc... Will this loader have any problems with full buckets of gravel, rocks, and dirt or do I need more tractor? The L3800 is about at the top of my budget right now and I need a little push for me to pull the trigger. Any help or info is greatly appreciated.
L3800 loader, Fork capability
- Thread starter LeeMan
- Start date
Welcome! I have the L3200 with the LA524 loader, same as on your L3800. I use the 66" QC bucket and have no problems with a loaded / heaped bucket of 5/8" minus crushed gravel.
But I have filled rear tires and a 500+ counter weight. It was definatly iffy before the counter weight with only the filled tires.
If I had it to do over again I would get the recommended 1000lb ballest box though, I went with the 500lb to save on a little length, but find myself throwing a extra 80lb or two bag of sand on top as well.
As to the forks, I use then a lot. It will not lift 2000lbs. In fact on my setup it will tip up on its nose / lift the rear tires off the ground with 2000lbs if you drag such a load off a small lip for example. Doing this is extremly hard on the front axle, and other than a one time test I would not recommend it as normal operation. These things are not built like skid steers!
You will also find that at maximum loader capacity (loads that the hydraulics will normaly lift without help) with forks, the steering is very heavy and you will need to be moving a little to steer.
I tend to use every pound of my loaders capacity, and as such I have taken the time to perform a few loading tests under controlled conditions to be able to know exactly what and what not it can do. I would rather know before than after I get into a tuff spot!
The only thing that I would wish for is a bit stronger front axle, loader and the ability to lift a 2000lb pallet of pellets.
David
But I have filled rear tires and a 500+ counter weight. It was definatly iffy before the counter weight with only the filled tires.
If I had it to do over again I would get the recommended 1000lb ballest box though, I went with the 500lb to save on a little length, but find myself throwing a extra 80lb or two bag of sand on top as well.
As to the forks, I use then a lot. It will not lift 2000lbs. In fact on my setup it will tip up on its nose / lift the rear tires off the ground with 2000lbs if you drag such a load off a small lip for example. Doing this is extremly hard on the front axle, and other than a one time test I would not recommend it as normal operation. These things are not built like skid steers!
You will also find that at maximum loader capacity (loads that the hydraulics will normaly lift without help) with forks, the steering is very heavy and you will need to be moving a little to steer.
I tend to use every pound of my loaders capacity, and as such I have taken the time to perform a few loading tests under controlled conditions to be able to know exactly what and what not it can do. I would rather know before than after I get into a tuff spot!
The only thing that I would wish for is a bit stronger front axle, loader and the ability to lift a 2000lb pallet of pellets.
David
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I have a L3800 with the standard 60" bucket. No problem at all with full buckets of dirt or gravel.
Like said, you want a 500+lb counter weight on the 3 pt when doing any loader work. 1000 lbs is just about right on this size rig.
L3800 is a very good tractor!
Like said, you want a 500+lb counter weight on the 3 pt when doing any loader work. 1000 lbs is just about right on this size rig.
L3800 is a very good tractor!
Thanks for the great replies so far. 1000lbs seems like a lot of weight to have to put in back plus the rimguard to balance the loads out. A dealer a couple hours from here has a MX4700 std for $23,000 with loader. He has the MX5100HST for $24,500 including R4's and loader. I feel like I should save more money to put down just to make sure I have the capability, loader capacity for heavier pallets and less rear ballast. I don't want to wait much longer than febuary because I really don't want a 2013 tier 4 emissions tractor. I could get by with the L3800 it sounds like but dont want to trade it in two years down the road. Should I wait a few months and save more or bite the bullet on the L3800? I really need to be able to handle a little heavier pallets if possible.
No matter what tractor you get, you should use weight on the 3pt hitch to counter the weight of the loader. Loaded rear tires will help traction and stability, but will not counter the FEL load. Using a FEL with no counter weight is hell on the front axle, front tires and steering components!
First, close your eyes.
Now imagine butterflys.
And unicorns.
Rainbows, too.
Now, open your eyes.
Read this:
"Tier 4 Standards. On May 11, 2004, the EPA signed the final rule introducing Tier 4 emission standards, which are to be phased-in over the period of 2008-2015 [69 FR 38957-39273, 29 Jun 2004]. The Tier 4 standards require that emissions of PM and NOx be further reduced by about 90%. Such emission reductions can be achieved through the use of control technologies—including advanced exhaust gas aftertreatment—similar to those required by the 2007-2010 standards for highway engines."
http://www.dieselnet.com/standards/us/nonroad.php
Translation: your tractor will cost more.
Oh, and it's "Zeus"
Oh, and sorry for the hiijack...
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I didnt plan on breaking my tractor in half and I do plan on using some ballast on the rear and also use rimguard in the tires for traction. Also, through reading this forum and talking to my dealer on the new emissions standards I was concerned on the price increase. For my first post on here I sure did get a couple smart ass replies that added nothing this post. I don't need a forklift just some decent lift capacity for moving palletized items. If someone has some personal experience with the MX series tractors and whether it would be worth saving a little more money to match my needs or if you feel I should just keep my pallets lighter since it will cover my other needs then any value added replies are appreciated.
Well I'm sorry I thought we are the ones who know our shit and have been there and done that before. But I reckon you as a newby know it all!
I was getting at the fact that a "M" or a "MX" series might be a bit over kill on only 2 acers of land. IF you want to lift a ton with a tractor you're going to need something in the 50 to 80 horse power range. AGAIN a little over kill for 2 acers. If you're lifting things on a regualr basis in the 2,000lb area a small used forklift might be a wise investment.
But hey its your tractor and your money so you go ahead and do whatchya want with it!
I was getting at the fact that a "M" or a "MX" series might be a bit over kill on only 2 acers of land. IF you want to lift a ton with a tractor you're going to need something in the 50 to 80 horse power range. AGAIN a little over kill for 2 acers. If you're lifting things on a regualr basis in the 2,000lb area a small used forklift might be a wise investment.
But hey its your tractor and your money so you go ahead and do whatchya want with it!
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
My dealer looked up the capacity of the front axle, and gave me a number like 2800 lbs. Because of the loader geometry, weight in the bucket effectively doubles as weight on the front axle. 1000 lbs in the front bucket becomes 2000 lbs on the axle, and tries to lift up the rear end by 1000 lbs. The empty loader is 1100 lbs, with a CG a foot or so in front of the tractor.
Those that have said rear 3 point hitch ballast is necessary are correct - that ballast uses the rear axle as a fulcrum, and lifts the front end, relieving the strain on the front axle.
Ballast in the rear tires does nothing to help the front axle - it just allows you to put more strain on the front axle before you pick up the rear end.
I have managed to pick up loads that make the rear end really iffy - on rare occasions up in the air. If I get going in 3rd or 4th, and hit a rock, the axle might suffer. Some of these members have managed to break the front axles or wreck the bearings and seals, and are giving their best advice. The loader is not a forklift. It can pick things up, and is universally handy, but for certain jobs purpose-built equipment is better.
Those that have said rear 3 point hitch ballast is necessary are correct - that ballast uses the rear axle as a fulcrum, and lifts the front end, relieving the strain on the front axle.
Ballast in the rear tires does nothing to help the front axle - it just allows you to put more strain on the front axle before you pick up the rear end.
I have managed to pick up loads that make the rear end really iffy - on rare occasions up in the air. If I get going in 3rd or 4th, and hit a rock, the axle might suffer. Some of these members have managed to break the front axles or wreck the bearings and seals, and are giving their best advice. The loader is not a forklift. It can pick things up, and is universally handy, but for certain jobs purpose-built equipment is better.
Very correct. I only ballested my rears for traction. That is why I would recommend the full 1000 lbs ballest box.
I chose the L3200 over the L3800 for what I do because I do not use ground engaging attatchments. Even with the ballest, the loaded tires 32hp is more than enough to spin the tires. Traction and hydraulic strength in loader work generaly is always the issue, not horsepower. If I were to rototill, mow I would have gotten as much PTO horsepower as I could.
As to the larger M series. I looked at those as well. But even then I do not beleive they will pick up a full 2000lbs, especialy on forks extended way out past the bucket "pins"
I tried the small forklift, I picked up a small 4000 lb capacity Nissan (when I had my old BX25) and it in truth was a much better pallet handler that the tractor. BUT even with air tires, it just dug in to easy on my gravel. Perhaps a different forklift with dual drive tires would be better, or a rough service forkilift would work, but they are quite a bit more $$
David
Sounds like a box scraper would be ideal for you. I have one on the back of my L3800 and get a lot of use out of it. I believe it weighs in at between 4 and 500lbs. I don't have my tires loaded and never had any problem lifting anything. The 3800 is a great tractor.
The MX is just too much tractor for 2 acres in my opinion. We have 400 acres here and I use the L3800DT in a semi commercial logging and firewood operation, along with mowing up to 50-60 acres and taking care of several miles of drive way and logging roads. If I were in your shoes, I'd just lighten up the pallets and stay with the smaller tractor.
As to the front axle/loader thing, I learned the hard way with our old L3750. Too many years of FEL work, with too little weight on the 3pt hitch. Over $1200 in parts and several days labor. Most front axles issues are related to FEL work...
Wow! Already got called a know it all newbie by the same guy that posted the other negative comments, lol. Anyway thanks for the other great posts that really Put things in perspective on the loader and fork capability. I think from the feedback you gave me I am sticking with the L3800. The cost difference just cant be justified for an MX series tractor for my needs. Thanks for the ballast pictures also. I will definately use some ballast as I had originally planned also. Is there any other options you guys think I should add before delivery that is worth the money? I was going to go pretty standard besides R4 tires with rimguard and loader and set of forks. Lightening up my pallets is a lot more cost efective than spending all that money on a bigger tractor.
Not really tractor options per-se, but I would see about getting the service manuals too.
Burt
New member
Equipment
L3700SU, box blade, 6 foot rhino blade, 1 bottom plow, 3 point receiver hitch.
HI and Welcome.
Don't pay any attention to the flames.
Here's a link to check out to answer your question: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTidbgJOU-I
About in the middle of the video, you will see the performance of the L3800 well done.
Burt
Might want to make sure you get the QC attatchment for the front loader, it allows you to quickly change to other loader implements like forks.
Bucket attached type forks would work, but that just reduces the capacity further as the piviot point is moved the buckets depth that much farther forward.
My early as found in actual use fork ratings are using a fork implement directly attched to the loader thru the QC, and not the bucket.
David
Bucket attached type forks would work, but that just reduces the capacity further as the piviot point is moved the buckets depth that much farther forward.
My early as found in actual use fork ratings are using a fork implement directly attched to the loader thru the QC, and not the bucket.
David