BX2370 power loss after fuel filter replacement

[skeets]

If I may ask, your fuel lines have you replaced them ? Reason I ask is they will get soft over time and maybe collapsing on you restricting fuel, dont ask,,,,
When it dies on you while mowing, ( you should be engaging the deck at idle not WOT ) are you going up hill down hill flat sideways along a hill, again I ask because some times gunk, grass, leaves JUNE BUGS, dont ask, will slosh around the outlet of the tank and get sucked against the outlet bib.
And on the BX you do not need to bleed the fuel line it will do it by it self while you crank.
And since you did nothing else to the machine when you changed filters it has to be in the delivery, and if she was running well before you changed them I doubt the lift pump or pressure pump have anything to do with it. I may well be in left field here, I wish you well, please keep us posted, so others may learn

 

[David789]

I have not replaced the fuel lines the tractor has less than 300 hours and is 4-5 years old. It had 5 hours when I bought it.
I engage the mower at idle.
Mowing on flat.
All fuel I put in the tank is poured through a funnel with a very fine mesh screen.

I was mowing my lawn (4 acres) and halfway through the tractor stalled, I limped it back to the gargage and replaced the fuel filters and it has ran correctly. I have siphoned the tank and put in fresh fuel.

 

[Henro]

I’m wondering if you might have a loose connection or broken wire feeding voltage to your electric fuel pump…causing the pump to intermittently stop at times, due to vibration or movement of the tractor.

How long did it run normally after you installed the new fuel pump?

You might try turning the key on and wiggling/gently pulling on wires feeding the pump, or even the wiring harness in places while listening to the sound of the pump. You could also gently move the fuses, in case one is not making a good electrical connection all the time, while listening to the fuel pump, or monitoring voltage at the pump with a volt meter, or maybe even better, a test light connected to the wires at the fuel pump.

 

[David789]

Henro,
Good suggestions, I havent done that since installing the new pump, with the old pump it ran continously for a few minutes with the key on before I turned the key off.
I have my afternoon project.

 

[Henro]

Henro,
Good suggestions, I havent done that since installing the new pump, with the old pump it ran continously for a few minutes with the key on before I turned the key off.
I have my afternoon project.

Remember, you have to simulate the dynamic situation. So it’s important to move wires and shake things in order to see if you can duplicate the issue if it is indeed caused by a poor electrical connection.

edit: just an afterthought, but it would probably be wise to hook up a test light across the wires at the pump. The pump should receive 12 V continuously all the time until the key is turned off.

It’s possible you could see the test light blink, but not notice the pump sound changeing. The test light should never blink, as long as the key is turned on, and the battery is good. Just trying to share with you what my past life experience is telling me… Good luck!

 

[RCW]

David - when it stalls is it like turning the key off, or does it stumble for a bit then quit?

I saw it drops RPM when you turn the mid-PTO/MMM on. My apologies if you said so already and I missed it….

You did say you have the in-line filters “pointing” in the proper direction, correct?

 

[Lug66]

Have you tried to determine if a foreign object is lodged in a fuel line? That could cause a fuel flow issue under a load when more fuel is demanded. If the rubber fuel lines are clear and the tractor only has issues when the mower is engaged I would start to scrutinize the mower itself.

 

[David789]

Have you tried to determine if a foreign object is lodged in a fuel line? That could cause a fuel flow issue under a load when more fuel is demanded. If the rubber fuel lines are clear and the tractor only has issues when the mower is engaged I would start to scrutinize the mower itself.

Remember, you have to simulate the dynamic situation. So it’s important to move wires and shake things in order to see if you can duplicate the issue if it is indeed caused by a poor electrical connection.

edit: just an afterthought, but it would probably be wise to hook up a test light across the wires at the pump. The pump should receive 12 V continuously all the time until the key is turned off.

It’s possible you could see the test light blink, but not notice the pump sound changeing. The test light should never blink, as long as the key is turned on, and the battery is good. Just trying to share with you what my past life experience is telling me… Good luck!

Henro

Have you tried to determine if a foreign object is lodged in a fuel line? That could cause a fuel flow issue under a load when more fuel is demanded. If the rubber fuel lines are clear and the tractor only has issues when the mower is engaged I would start to scrutinize the mower itself.

I wiggled the wiring harness while runningn no change. This morning I checked the fuel line before the filter before the fuel pump. the line flows full, reconnected the line, checked fuel flow before the filter before the injector pump, with the key on fuel comes out about 3 inched pulsing with the pump. I installed a new filter even though it was new engins starts and runs smoothly all the way to full throttle.

I found the problem or a problem, when the forward or reverse pedals at touched the fuel shutoff solenoid closes then opens when the pedal is releassed. Now to find the cause.

 

[Russell King]

Is it possible to remove the fuel shut off solenoid and then try out the tractor’s operation?
Can you manually stop the engine if the solenoid is removed?

I think you have found the problem but the above process will be proof positive before you spend time trying to fix it.

 

[RCW]

I think David is getting closer. Good for him.

The pedal switch appears to be working as designed since it shuts the tractor down when HST pedal is not in neutral/centered.

It’s as though the tractor doesn’t “know” there’s someone sitting in the seat.

I’m thinking it could be an issue with the operator presence control (OPC) system. A faulty or inoperable seat switch can cause this.

I had a similar issue this year.
Temporarily jumped the seat switch to help diagnosis.

Don't want to send anyone on a wild goose chase, but jumping the seat switch temporarily is a quick and easy test. My switch was fine, just the pocket in the seat cushion material no longer closed the circuit. Piece of cardboard fixed it.

BX2360 - First No Start in Exactly 10 years and 1 Month | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

Just made a small jumper to go across the switch connector.

 

[Henro]

Certainly sounds like it’s electrical and RCW is giving you some good advice.

Glad you are on the road to success… Or closer to the light at the end of the tunnel…or something like that.

edit: just an afterthought, but were you sitting in the tractor seat like RCW mentioned when if your fuel solenoid cut out? If not, you might not have proven anything…🥲

 

[RCW]

Henro - true, I was assuming someone was in the seat when it shut down. I certainly hope I was correct in the assumption. I don’t like to send anyone down a rabbit hole….

Also - - for what it's worth - - the seat switch can be removed very easily - just 2 bolts and it practically falls out. Looks covered up by seat frame, but it's not on a BX2360. 20 second job after spending 10 minutes finding a 10mm socket….

 

[David789]

I was sitting in the seat.

 

[David789]

I followed RCW's suggestion, my plug was different, I was able to jump the contacts with a small set of alligator clips. Tractor moved forward and reverse, tomorrow will be the test putting the mowwer back on and trying to mow my lawn.

I do appreciate everyones inputs.

 

[RCW]

I was sitting in the seat.

PS - - - David and I were typing at same time - - - Woo Hoo!

I hope it works for you! Fingers crossed!

IMO, something wonky with and limited to the seat switch......

My original post follows:

Glad I didn't misinterpret the circumstances.

I'm 74% +/- sure if you pop the connector off the seat switch and jump it, your problem will go away. A paper clip, or piece of stripped wire might work.

I just happened to have wire and spade connectors in my parts bins.

I can't condone that you keep the switch jumped. Mine would travel without me in the seat when jumped.

It might get you closer to finding the root cause(s).

Good luck and best wishes

 

[FattyArbuckle]

Remote diagnosis is so much fun - Ha...
So I'll give you two more ideas.
1- The seat switch input is to a timer relay (see electrical schematic I posted a while back). You might want to try a jumper at the relay if jumpering the switch doesn't diagnose it.
2- Take a look at the engine stop / fuel cutoff solenoid on the injection pump and make sure it is fully releasing to the engine run position.

 

[David789]

Remote diagnosis is so much fun - Ha...
So I'll give you two more ideas.
1- The seat switch input is to a timer relay (see electrical schematic I posted a while back). You might want to try a jumper at the relay if jumpering the switch doesn't diagnose it.
2- Take a look at the engine stop / fuel cutoff solenoid on the injection pump and make sure it is fully releasing to the engine run position.

I jumped the seat switch mowed my 4 acre lawn withourt a problem.

I will call the dealer to get a new switch.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

or maybe just blow the 'junk' that's in the switch.
sadly these are 'open' switches not 'sealed' so 'stuff' can and does get in.
K uses a $1 switch when they should use a $2 one.....

 

[David789]

I went to mow my lawn yesterday, same symptoms, the fuel shutoff closed when the transmission pedal engaged. I checked my jumper then traced the wire harness under the platform, I found the first plug connection was broken, probably from assembly, the half of the plug assembly was no ther and one of the male ends was disconnected, they were wrapped with electrical tape.

I inserted both ends, tractor ran and operated normally, heading to Autozone to get a new plug or shrinkwrap and just solder the wires.

 

[David789]

Photo of the broken plug that was the root cause of my problem. This plug was under the fuel tank. I think it was this way when the tractor was assembled. Raising the mower deck or three point hitch pulled one blade out. I removed tthe plug and soldered and shrinkwrapped the wires. I checked the seat switch with my meter and it operated normally, I still have it bypassed.