Rewiring the L275

[LeadHead]

The plastic wiring harness connectors are badly deteriorating and breaking on my L275. I want to rewire it, or at least replace the plastic connectors to make the electrical system more reliable. Rather than cutting the wires and using individual bullet or spade connectors, I would like to use connectors somewhat similar to the OEM solution and keep a professional appearance, as well as removing any chance of mixing up wires if/when it's ever necessary to unplug the wiring harness. In the case of the L275, the factory solution is spade connectors in plastic housings.
My question is what is the best solution for replacement plastic connectors? I've been looking at different Molex products and have almost come to the conclusion to go with the MLX series connectors (http://www.molex.com/molex/products...ntroduction&parentKey=wire_to_wire_connectors). Is there any particular reason NOT to use this product, or is there a better alternative available? I've have a difficult time finding the equivalent product that uses spade connectors which I would prefer to these pin connectors.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[amaurymsa]

hi,
i've a 245 and need also to perform rewiring.
about your choice, i've just some comments
take care to :
- the MOQ (minimum order qty) or check to mouser/digikey and so on,
- tooling, most of the time specific tool are necessary to crimp terminals, the same to extract them out of the housing...
- the maximum current...15amp is the max in this range.

on my side i use simple faston 6.35mm

oh, one question, can you let me know how you remove the dashboard?
on mine, when i remove the 4 screws, i can just lift for 2 or 3 cm. no way to remove completly,
how do you do that?
please keep us posted.

 

[LeadHead]

Digikey is pretty good about having a MOQ of 1 (at least on the stuff I've bought from them in the past) and reasonable shipping fees, unlike a lot of other suppliers out there such as Allied and Mouser. The other problem you have to watch is whether they stock the parts or not. I've spent considerable time over the last couple of days trying to find an acceptable product that 1. is heavy duty enough, 2. is in stock, 3. doesn't have an unreasonable MOQ, and 4. doesn't require a $300 crimp tool. That is why my choice has been narrowed to the MLX series and Digikey as my supplier.
I first looked at the Molex standard .093 connectors but after seeing them in person locally was a little hesitant due to how small the pins appeared to be. I then looked at the Molex VersaBlade system carefully and seriously considered it, but not only do their largest connectors only support 6 circuits (thus requiring 2 separate connectors for my one 8-circuit connection, doable but not preferable) my biggest hangup was the question of being able to crimp it reliably without spending next week's paycheck on a crimper. The Mini Jr. was next on my list but the amperage rating was a bit lighter than I cared for. That brought me to the MLX series which ideally could be rated a tad higher in the amperage but I think it'll be ok (13 amp rated). It sounds like many people successfully crimp them with a crimp tool that can be had for $20 or so. The TE Fastin-Faston was another that I checked, but Digikey did not have everything in stock that I needed.
What do you guys think, will 13.5 amp be plenty for everything this tractor needs?
As for the console, you do realize you have to remove the steering wheel to remove it, right? I'm not sure how different the 245 is from the 275, but it wasn't that big of a deal as I recall. It's been a few months, though.

 

[amaurymsa]

What do you guys think, will 13.5 amp be plenty for everything this tractor needs?

what do you want to rewire, lighting? charging system?

As for the console, you do realize you have to remove the steering wheel to remove it, right? I'm not sure how different the 245 is from the 275, but it wasn't that big of a deal as I recall. It's been a few months, though.

yes, i can not lift the dash board of more than 2 or 3 cm. seems to be due to harness, but i can not see how...

 

[LeadHead]

I'm planning on replacing all externally exposed pairs of connectors. Headlight harness, taillight harness, main connector (between the above two) and the one that connects to the voltage regulator. All of these wires are either 14 or 16 gauge (probably 14). I think everything else can stay the way they are.
On my tractor, I think my buddy is the one who removed the console when we were working on it. Either way, it's been almost 6 months since we did that so I don't remember much for detail in that regard.

 

[Russell King]

Here are some websites that sell wiring connectors for cars. The ones on my tractor are similar to the Delphi Packard style shown in the Electrical Depot website. These are spade connectors that then slide into the plastic housing from the rear, like on about every GM auto sold in the 60s to 80s. Interestingly you can get the terminals at CarQuest auto parts. I could not get the plastic housings there though.

I guess you can also use trailer wiring connectors that go up to 9 pin connections (I think).

http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/

http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/

http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm