Septic pvc showing through dirt.

[Trustable]

Hi guys,

not sure if anyone has any ideas but I went outside today to take a break from work and noticed what I presume to be a septic line from my crawl space poking out of the dirt on the mound. It is before the inlet lid. The mound as far as I can tell is fine and nothing is leaking. I had the whole system inspected before I moved 2 years ago and it was good. It is on a steep 3-4ft hill and I think erosion has worn the dirt away. I do not ride my tractor anywhere near it and only use a riding mower on it occasionally (my yard is mostly moss) Am I able to just cover the pipe up with dirt or is there another method I should take? I figured it should be buried deeper since I am in Michigan, but I don’t know. Here is a pic

 

[Motion]

Before covering it with more dirt, I'd suggest shooting an elevation from where the pipe exits the crawl space to the tank inlet to see what amount of fall you have and what's available. Either the mud on top of the pipe has eroded as you stated or if tree roots maybe raising the pipe. The original installer sure went shallow. Is the tank concrete if so, the lid must be very close to the surface, be careful about driving over it with heavy equipment? While you're addressing this issue it would be good to identify the clean out port location and record. I usually weld a cross of #6 rebar and place it on top of things I need to find later on using a metal detector i.e., irrigation laterals, pipe futures, etc.
.

 

[dirtydeed]

if you're confident that the line is your waste line I'd suggest putting a level on it (the exposed part) and verifying that you have pitch (just to make sure that nothing settled). Then, add some dirt cover.

Assuming that you still have proper pitch (in the 1/8" to 1/4" per foot) there really is no need to worry about potential freeze. The pitch will ensure that the line drains and there is a significant amount of "warmth" coming from the tank.

Edit: Motion nailed it before I could save my reply.

 

[Trustable]

Before covering it with more dirt, I'd suggest shooting an elevation from where the pipe exits the crawl space to the tank inlet to see what amount of fall you have and what's available. Either the mud on top of the pipe has eroded as you stated or if tree roots maybe raising the pipe. The original installer sure went shallow. Is the tank concrete if so, the lid must be very close to the surface, be careful about driving over it with heavy equipment? While you're addressing this issue it would be good to identify the clean out port location and record. I usually weld a cross of #6 rebar and place it on top of things I need to find later on using a metal detector i.e., irrigation laterals, pipe futures, etc.
.

Im not sure about the tank but the lid is concrete. The septic guy said it’s got 30 more years before a replacement. I’m going to check w/ level and hope to God it’s good.

 

[Trustable]

if you're confident that the line is your waste line I'd suggest putting a level on it (the exposed part) and verifying that you have pitch (just to make sure that nothing settled). Then, add some dirt cover.

Assuming that you still have proper pitch (in the 1/8" to 1/4" per foot) there really is no need to worry about potential freeze. The pitch will ensure that the line drains and there is a significant amount of "warmth" coming from the tank.

Edit: Motion nailed it before I could save my reply.

Thanks! Checking elevation/level now. I dug around pipe just to ensure it wasn’t something else and it’s definitely the waste line. This property has a lot of weird stuff and thought maybe it could have been electrical to the shed, it was not. Woulda been a lot easier then.

 

[Trustable]

if you're confident that the line is your waste line I'd suggest putting a level on it (the exposed part) and verifying that you have pitch (just to make sure that nothing settled). Then, add some dirt cover.

Assuming that you still have proper pitch (in the 1/8" to 1/4" per foot) there really is no need to worry about potential freeze. The pitch will ensure that the line drains and there is a significant amount of "warmth" coming from the tank.

Edit: Motion nailed it before I could save my reply.

I will add in the winter in snows smaller than 2 inches the snow melts around the lid, so I think that’s good?

 

[Trustable]

@Motion @dirtydeed
I exposed the top of about a 5 foot length. It appears to be sloping towards the lid/inlet. Here are some pics ignore my landscaping, property is almost 100% shade with horrible soil. I’m putting rocks down in the dug area this fall. There is a a few clean outs in the crawl space with one being right where it exits it, I will have to look for an outside one when I have extra time.

 

[dirtydeed]

I will add in the winter in snows smaller than 2 inches the snow melts around the lid, so I think that’s good?

Correct. Those microbes do generate some heat for sure.

4" sch 40 PVC is surprisingly tough. No issue going over it with any lawn mower. However, many builders cheat and use the thin wall sewer and drain instead of sch 40. There's a big difference between the two.

 

[dirtydeed]

@Motion @dirtydeed
I exposed the top of about a 5 foot length. It appears to be sloping towards the lid/inlet. Here are some pics ignore my landscaping, property is almost 100% shade with horrible soil. I’m putting rocks down in the dug area this fall. There is a a few clean outs in the crawl space with one being right where it exits it, I will have to look for an outside one when I have extra time.

Can't tell from your second pic how long the level is but I see that it isn't on the pipe (left side) .

You're 3rd pic looks to me that you have about a 1/4" /foot. That's good. You really don't want to exceed 1/4" per foot inside the house, but outside it's ok to have a bit more.

Too much pitch allows the water to pass too fast leaving the solids behind in the pipe.

 

[Trustable]

Correct. Those microbes do generate some heat for sure.

4" sch 40 PVC is surprisingly tough. No issue going over it with any lawn mower. However, many builders cheat and use the thin wall sewer and drain instead of sch 40. There's a big difference between the two.

Okay good to know thank you. I believe it is the thicker one, I will have to double check I assume it’s written on the pipe sections. I know it took the normal size clean out cap as I had to replace it when I got rid of well water/filters. Apologies for all the questions but my parents had a house built with septic last year and I was going off how theirs looked. First home struggles I guess.

 

[Trustable]

Can't tell from your second pic how long the level is but I see that it isn't on the pipe (left side) .

You're 3rd pic looks to me that you have about a 1/4" /foot. That's good. You really don't want to exceed 1/4" per foot inside the house, but outside it's ok to have a bit more.

Too much pitch allows the water to pass too fast leaving the solids behind in the pipe.

The second pic level is 4ft. It is resting on the left side on an expanded part where the pipe before fits in. I really appreciate you helping me out with this. To say I was panicking would be an understatement.

 

[dirtydeed]

Okay good to know thank you. I believe it is the thicker one, I will have to double check I assume it’s written on the pipe sections. I know it took the normal size clean out cap as I had to replace it when I got rid of well water/filters. Apologies for all the questions but my parents had a house built with septic last year and I was going off how theirs looked. First home struggles I guess.

I've seen inside work done all in sch 40, but the outside portion in sewer and drain (likely "homeowner style" repairs). If it turns out to be sch 40 you're fine driving over it, but would still recommend some additional cover.

Just tap on it, you can hear the difference. I think you're fine.

 

[Trustable]

I've seen inside work done all in sch 40, but the outside portion in sewer and drain (likely "homeowner style" repairs). If it turns out to be sch 40 you're fine driving over it, but would still recommend some additional cover.

Just tap on it, you can hear the difference. I think you're fine.

I’m gonna go back in the woods and get some dirt out with the tractor and work on covering it up. Thanks again!!!

 

[fried1765]

I’m gonna go back in the woods and get some dirt out with the tractor and work on covering it up. Thanks again!!!

Yup....
All is OK!
Just cover it up with 2"+ of soil, and feather out the edges.
Grass may never grow satisfactorily in that spot though.

 

[Trustable]

Yup....
All is OK!
Just cover it up with 2"+ of soil, and feather out the edges.
Grass may never grow satisfactorily in that spot though.

Thanks! I have barely any grass anyways unfortunately. It’s pretty much 24/7 shade. My house is surrounded by woods on all sides. And the trees are large enough and close enough to the house and garage where I wouldn’t feel comfortable cutting them down. Next place I move I definitely want more cleared land, that’s for sure!

 

[ctfjr]

. . .

Too much pitch allows the water to pass too fast leaving the solids behind in the pipe.

Not sure I follow this logic DD

 

[RCW]

Not sure I follow this logic DD

Yep, it is counterintuitive, but is an issue when slopes are too steep, even on 15+" public sanitary sewer lines.

Can make running public sewers much more expensive on steep downhill slopes. Have to install periodic drop inlets (i.e., manholes) to lessen grades of the lines themselves.

@Trustable - - you've gotten good advice.

 

[fried1765]

Not sure I follow this logic DD

Agreed!

 

[dirtydeed]

Not sure I follow this logic DD

If the pipe pitch is too steep, the water will flow so fast that it leaves the solids behind (and paper for that matter). This is especially true with todays low flow toilets. You want the solids to stay suspended in the water to be carried down the pipe.

Edit: I've seen the guys even use level pitch outside the house and it still works because it slows the water and carries the solids.

 

[ctfjr]

If the pipe pitch is too steep, the water will flow so fast that it leaves the solids behind (and paper for that matter). This is especially true with todays low flow toilets. You want the solids to stay suspended in the water to be carried down the pipe.

Edit: I've seen the guys even use level pitch outside the house and it still works because it slows the water and carries the solids.

TY - I guess that shows even old farts can learn something