used the tide option on cars, big trucks tractors, and Atv s never a prob and spic and span afterwards have also used white vinegar it dissolves any calcium deposits just like cleaning a coffee pot but beware sometimes that calcium is keepi a freeze plug from leaking learned the hard way back of the head on a Pontiac ouchDon't know of that would work or not. But, at least there would not be any unsightly spots on your glassware
Stuck Thermostat???
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Yep. According to WMT (they make a host of hoses including aircraft and missile hydraulics) the shelf life is 12 years from cure date. Which is what you find stamped on the part.
Completely unpossible. NorthIdahoman has never heard of it and lmichael thinks it will tear up his engine. Jeeze.
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Didn't say it wouldn't work, just never heard of it.
I've always done the vinegar treatment on my stuff.
Got to be careful with anything that harms copper, aluminum, or lead.
Yeah same here. I am just not that adventurous with my engines and the more expensive the engine the less adventurous I become. Also I tend to do a plain distilled water flush and fresh coolant refill often enough that chemicals are not necessary
Your post was condescending, you know, with the I don"t do redneck stuff comment. Isn't a vinegar flush kinda redneck?Didn't say it wouldn't work, just never heard of it.
I've always done the vinegar treatment on my stuff.
Got to be careful with anything that harms copper, aluminum, or lead.
And using something that you mop your floor with or wash your clothes or dishes with is going to be harmful to copper, aluminum, cast iron, and rubber hose?
Is there lead in any modern cooling system?
The guy that showed me the spic&span method back in the 80s made me a believer. You wouldn't believe the crud that came out of my 69 Camaro. Looking down in the radiator it shined like a brand new penny.
Am I claiming this is the only thing that works? No. But I am saying it works pretty dang good.
In 1980, I bought my first truck, from my Dad, a 1978 Toyota Hilux, at 17 years old. I went through it with fine toothed comb. Replaced points, adjusted the carb, new plugs and plug wires, distributer, adjusted the valves, cleaned the top of the head since I had the valve cover off, etc, etc. Stupid stuff.
My Dad asked "What are you doing to that truck, it's only 2 years old?"
I said, "It's mine now, Pops, and it's going to be perfect!".
Dad shook his head and walked away, muttering... "Don't fix what isn't broken ".
I ruined the distributer messing with the points. Ruined a few other items and spent days and money getting it right again. But, I learned a lot about cars and engines. A lot. And... I learned...Don't fix what isn't broken.
Catch my drift?
It's not overheating, leave it alone.
My Dad asked "What are you doing to that truck, it's only 2 years old?"
I said, "It's mine now, Pops, and it's going to be perfect!".
Dad shook his head and walked away, muttering... "Don't fix what isn't broken ".
I ruined the distributer messing with the points. Ruined a few other items and spent days and money getting it right again. But, I learned a lot about cars and engines. A lot. And... I learned...Don't fix what isn't broken.
Catch my drift?
It's not overheating, leave it alone.
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Spic and Span is good stuff. Good idea. Redneck or not.
But do you really want to break all that crud loose...
Blocked passages and maybe keep your thermostat from closing.
But do you really want to break all that crud loose...
Blocked passages and maybe keep your thermostat from closing.
Thought I would provide a closing follow-up to my issue. Thanks to GeoHorn, Greensville Jay, Vigo, Lmichael and Northwoodslife - you guys nailed it. The Block Drain was clogged - sticking a thick wire into it and moving it around broke the blockage loose. I then re-filled with a commercial Radiator Cleaner and Distilled Water. Ran it for about 20 mins, drained, flushed with more Distilled Water and closed everything up for final refill. Oh yeah, I also pulled the Thermostat during the cleaning and tested it - I didn't see it open up (water was about 190 degrees - supposed to be fully open at 185). Went ahead and bought a new stat and installed it (out of curiosity, I first tested the new one as well - I didn't see it open up). So either the temp has to be hotter, or these Japanese Stats do not open up as much as my Ford 8N - I could visibly see that one opening up under hot water). Oh well, at least I'm sure the new one won't hurt (and I'll sleep easier).
On my previous change I drained it via the Lower Rad Hose, which was not easy at all. This time I bought a couple of tools to tackle the Rad Drain Plug from underneath - they did the trick. Included a photo of what I used - 90 degree Needle Nose, and 1/2" Hose Grip Pliers. Thanks gang!
On my previous change I drained it via the Lower Rad Hose, which was not easy at all. This time I bought a couple of tools to tackle the Rad Drain Plug from underneath - they did the trick. Included a photo of what I used - 90 degree Needle Nose, and 1/2" Hose Grip Pliers. Thanks gang!
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Aggressive radiator/block cleaners have done poorly for me. Iāve used the commercial products that claimed to do the jobā¦and EACH TIME the water pump subsequently failed/leaked shortly thereafter.
Since then, Iāve only used plain water to flush the systems, and had no issues.
If modern quality coolant (which has anti-corrosion properties already) is used and changed according to schedules (3-5 years in most cases) you should not be suffering corrosion, rust, and blockages.
Since then, Iāve only used plain water to flush the systems, and had no issues.
If modern quality coolant (which has anti-corrosion properties already) is used and changed according to schedules (3-5 years in most cases) you should not be suffering corrosion, rust, and blockages.
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Based on what ive seen inside engine blocks that i've torn down (which is many) i dont think you can realistically 'flush out' all the crud that accumulates in the water jackets in any single event.. the stuff would clog the thermostat and then radiator if it really all came out in a hurry. I would consider a flush more useful as a preventative than as a repair. This is in 'bad cases', anyway. I'm sure when done preventatively the gradual buildup is mostly prevented/abated.
I've never heard of anyone having an actual serious problem after a flush, so i personally think there's no downside to it regardless of whether you see any benefit from it or not. But noone should think that what this is going to do is make your cooling jackets spotless. Not unless they were almost perfect to begin with.
I have run the evaporust cooling system 'cleaner' on a few vehicles and think that's about the most aggressive 'over the counter' for rust treatment in an iron block of a good running engine. Definitely ditto the comment about freeze plugs.. lol
I've never heard of anyone having an actual serious problem after a flush, so i personally think there's no downside to it regardless of whether you see any benefit from it or not. But noone should think that what this is going to do is make your cooling jackets spotless. Not unless they were almost perfect to begin with.
I have run the evaporust cooling system 'cleaner' on a few vehicles and think that's about the most aggressive 'over the counter' for rust treatment in an iron block of a good running engine. Definitely ditto the comment about freeze plugs.. lol
Appreciate all the thoughts and info. I had never heard negative stories about Radiator Cleaners, so that was interesting news. I've rarely used it myself - you guys scared me enuf that I won't use it again. I just bought this tractor, which is 11 years old and I have zero info on how well it was maintained (2nd owner only had it a few months - too small). So I'll keep an eye over the next few weeks to see if it starts to drip green at all.