Top link question

[AOW162435]

The top link on my B7100 has seen better days. One end had a slight bend, and it takes extraordinary measures to adjust - off the tractor and in a vise.
I'd really like to replace it with a NOS Kubota one, or a quality US-made one. But it appears that India has single-handedly corned this market.

Any suggestions?


Andreas

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I have 2 or 3 made in India toplinks bolted to my 3PH implements, zero issues with them. I did spray 'rust check' on them years ago.

 

[chim]

I replaced a toplink on my last tractor with one from Tractor Supply and it was trouble free for years.

 

[hodge]

A top link is such a simple and standard device, that I wouldn't be concerned about the origin of it.

 

[Lencho]

You need it to adjust easily while on the tractor. Just order a new one and be sure to get the right length. See this thread:

B7100 top link

I've a new-style B7100 HST which came with no top link. I've tried (2) aftermarket top links & they are miserable to use. Could someone who has an original Kubota top link measure the length of the body so I will know what to look for? Thanks in advance Roger

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Smokeydog]

Most times top link is in tension. Implements like subsoiler can put the top link in compression enough to fold up a cheap top link.

 

[N3BP]

I think you can only buy the individual pieces from Kubota for the older B series. You're looking at about $350 in parts. As others have stated, the aftermarket ones work just fine. Just make sure you buy one that's designed for a Kubota tractor or you'll have to grind the end down that attaches to the tractor's top link bracket.

 

[AOW162435]

I think you can only buy the individual pieces from Kubota for the older B series. You're looking at about $350 in parts. As others have stated, the aftermarket ones work just fine. Just make sure you buy one that's designed for a Kubota tractor or you'll have to grind the end down that attaches to the tractor's top link bracket.

Looks like options are limited. Any suggestions for an appropriately-sized, quality example?

Andreas

 

[D2Cat]

Most times top link is in tension. Implements like subsoiler can put the top link in compression enough to fold up a cheap top link.

How does the subsoiler put the top link in compression? The pressure is the same as pulling a plow.

 

[Russell King]

Looks like options are limited. Any suggestions for an appropriately-sized, quality example?

Andreas

There is a member here @007kubotaguy that parts out old Kubotas. Contact him by private message and ask him to sell you one and ask price. Shipping will be costly though because he is in California and you are east coast. Perhaps by USPS and not UPS will be cheaper

 

[Smokeydog]

How does the subsoiler put the top link in compression? The pressure is the same as pulling a plow.

Subsoilers have long lever arm below the lift arms also close to tractor can compress top link. My plows sits further back. Some cheaper single shank subsoilers connect the shank to the top link. If shear bolt shears the rotation compressed the top link.

Subsoiler worked good on MF135 two wheel drive tractor for years. Connected to 60hp 4wd tractor folded top link within minutes. Had to get a heavier subsoiler built for higher Hp and new top link.

 

[JohnDB]

The top link on my B7100 has seen better days ...
Any suggestions?
Andreas

This might be a wild suggestion, given that I don't know your tractor, implements, or what you do with it, but have you considered a hydraulic top link. You'd have to fit up power beyond (if it is feasible on yours) hoses and valve so it wouldnt be cheap, but offsetting the cost of a new manual link could make it more appealing. AND, its a breeze to operate from the seat! I don't know of anyone who regretted swapping a manual top link for hydraulic. Made a huge difference for me, but my tractor and implements are a heavier.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

This might be a wild suggestion, given that I don't know your tractor, implements, or what you do with it, but have you considered a hydraulic top link. You'd have to fit up power beyond (if it is feasible on yours) hoses and valve so it wouldnt be cheap, but offsetting the cost of a new manual link could make it more appealing. AND, its a breeze to operate from the seat! I don't know of anyone who regretted swapping a manual top link for hydraulic. Made a huge difference for me, but my tractor and implements are a heavier.

The only thing I'll add to that is; If you go with a hydraulic top link and you want a "check valve" on it, so it won't leak down, make damn sure you buy one with it already installed.

Adding one (at least for a nimrod like me) has been a real humbling learning experience.

I'm still waiting on my backordered parts.

 

[AOW162435]

This might be a wild suggestion, given that I don't know your tractor, implements, or what you do with it, but have you considered a hydraulic top link. You'd have to fit up power beyond (if it is feasible on yours) hoses and valve so it wouldnt be cheap, but offsetting the cost of a new manual link could make it more appealing. AND, its a breeze to operate from the seat! I don't know of anyone who regretted swapping a manual top link for hydraulic. Made a huge difference for me, but my tractor and implements are a heavier.

John,
Thank you for the suggestion, but this tractor will only be used with the rear mower. Really no need to fiddle with the top link length once correctly adjusted.

Andreas

 

[D2Cat]

Looks like options are limited. Any suggestions for an appropriately-sized, quality example?

Andreas

Remove the top link. If you can screw both ends fully inwards measure the distance from the center of the holes on each end. If you can't screw one end in because it's bent you can estimate the amount left to thread in. Then go to a nearby farm supply store. They will have these and probably two sizes. Get the smallest one you see and screw both ends in as you did on yours and compare the differences. The dimension does not have to be exact, but close. If that dimension is close the extended dimension will be in the range you need.

This is a simple attaching device and does not need to be Kubota provided. Even after market top links are painted a blue or black color! It is only a piece of tubing that is threaded and a couple of threded ends that are adjustable. One end has left had threads ( which is what make them peculiar).

 

[AOW162435]

Remove the top link. If you can screw both ends fully inwards measure the distance from the center of the holes on each end. If you can't screw one end in because it's bent you can estimate the amount left to thread in. Then go to a nearby farm supply store. They will have these and probably two sizes. Get the smallest one you see and screw both ends in as you did on yours and compare the differences. The dimension does not have to be exact, but close. If that dimension is close the extended dimension will be in the range you need.

This is a simple attaching device and does not need to be Kubota provided. Even after market top links are painted a blue or black color! It is only a piece of tubing that is threaded and a couple of threded ends that are adjustable. One end has left had threads ( which is what make them peculiar).

Yes, I'm overthinking this in my quest to keep this B7100 nice & original.

It's only one end that is difficult to adjust (and bent), so I'll probably source a new end and go from there. Maybe find the correct-size tap or thread chaser for that end of the tube as well.

Andreas

 

[D2Cat]

Yes, I'm overthinking this in my quest to keep this B7100 nice & original.

It's only one end that is difficult to adjust (and bent), so I'll probably source a new end and go from there. Maybe find the correct-size tap or thread chaser for that end of the tube as well.

Andreas

Sourcing a NEW end is near impossible. The whole gizzmo is not expensive so when one gets bent enough to replace it usually is in the recycle ben for the scrapper.

Take a look at these at Tractor supply. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...794-&msclkid=04d476147d5e1fc1821a12d3a9487430

 

[D2Cat]

If you seriously are going to try to find the end that is bent you need to know one end has right hand threads and one has left hand threads. Have to get the correct one!!!!!

 

[N3BP]

Snap a pic of yours. I’m curious to see how bad it is.

 

[fried1765]

If you seriously are going to try to find the end that is bent you need to know one end has right hand threads and one has left hand threads. Have to get the correct one!!!!!

I have NEVER seen left and/or right hand top link threaded ends listed for sale individually.....anywhere!