Mower Deck Bogs Down

[us027274]

Help me out here. Not sure how to diagnose this one. The belly mower on my BX2370, their 54" mower, slows down or stops under the following conditions:

- Heavy grass
- A tight turn. Yep. You hear it slow down, and can see the far left blade spindle slowing down through the grease hole in the cover.
- Deck dropped down to 2.5" cutting height and moderately thick grass.
- Going downhill, light grass cutting. Really. Uphill or level ground it does ok. Downhill it drops down to almost a stall.

Not the engine. Engine runs at normal speed.

Belt was replaced this past spring in an attempt to fix this issue. Didn't help. Tractor has 960 hours, probably a third of that mowing.

I'm not sure if the belt slips on the mower deck or the drive shaft slows down. I plan to recreate the conditions tomorrow, have someone else drive it and watch to see if the shaft slows.

In the meantime, any thoughts? Thanks.

One more hint: I use a tiller with it, and the tiller bogs down far more quickly than it did some years back. Drive shaft stops turning. It's not the clutch on the tiller.

 

[jimh406]

Clean the underside of the deck. Sharpen or put sharp blades on. Check the "actual" height of the deck left to right and front to back.

 

[us027274]

Clean the underside of the deck. Sharpen or put sharp blades on. Check the "actual" height of the deck left to right and front to back.

Interesting. Can you expand? Underside stays pretty clean. Sharp blades or dull, it still happens. Heigth could be off. Are you suggesting a lower front end of the deck going downhill might create an issue?

In that vein, noting that if I raise the deck half an inch it doesn't bog as bad.

 

[RCW]

What are the tractor engine RPM’s doing when this happens?

 

[us027274]

What are the tractor engine RPM’s doing when this happens?

Not a thing. They hold perfectly stable.

 

[SDT]

Help me out here. Not sure how to diagnose this one. The belly mower on my BX2370, their 54" mower, slows down or stops under the following conditions:

- Heavy grass
- A tight turn. Yep. You hear it slow down, and can see the far left blade spindle slowing down through the grease hole in the cover.
- Deck dropped down to 2.5" cutting height and moderately thick grass.
- Going downhill, light grass cutting. Really. Uphill or level ground it does ok. Downhill it drops down to almost a stall.

Not the engine. Engine runs at normal speed.

Belt was replaced this past spring in an attempt to fix this issue. Didn't help. Tractor has 960 hours, probably a third of that mowing.

I'm not sure if the belt slips on the mower deck or the drive shaft slows down. I plan to recreate the conditions tomorrow, have someone else drive it and watch to see if the shaft slows.

In the meantime, any thoughts? Thanks.

One more hint: I use a tiller with it, and the tiller bogs down far more quickly than it did some years back. Drive shaft stops turning. It's not the clutch on the tiller.

Sounds like heavy grass overloading mower.

BX decks have marginal grass clearance (space between blades and deck) and cannot clear heavy grass as well as many other decks.

Was belt replaced with Kubota belt?

HST oil level correct?

 

[85Hokie]

Based on your info - a belt is slipping or perhaps the spring is not holding the idler pulley back tight enough

 

[jimh406]

Interesting. Can you expand? Underside stays pretty clean. Sharp blades or dull, it still happens. Heigth could be off. Are you suggesting a lower front end of the deck going downhill might create an issue?

In that vein, noting that if I raise the deck half an inch it doesn't bog as bad.

My point is to take it back to factory settings.

I do know that most pull behind type mowers recommend a slight angle to the ground. I don’t know if your MMM recommends that or not.

 

[SDT]

My point is to take it back to factory settings.

I do know that most pull behind type mowers recommend a slight angle to the ground. I don’t know if your MMM recommends that or not.

Agreed.

Helps with clearing.

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

I thought maybe belt slippage ,spring missing or belt possibly oriented wrong around the idler pulley. However reading further about the tiller in the spring when you said the drive shaft stops spinning . There's your answer . The clutch inside the trans has to be either failing or the hydralic valve that engages the pto clutch is faulity. Or even the pto lever linkage needs adjustment.

 

[DaveFromMi]

Based on your info - a belt is slipping or perhaps the spring is not holding the idler pulley back tight enough

I had a similar issue on a mower deck. The tensioner pulley spring attachment to the deck (a small hole in the deck) wore due to the spring rubbing inside the hole. The attachment hole became oblong and spring tension decreased.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I tend to agree with 85Hokie…That was my thought too, but (if I read /understood correctly) in OP there was note that tiller is affected as well…I assume that is a PTO 3 pt tiller…maybe unrelated to trouble with the mower deck / belt tensions, but seems OP notes loss of power from both PTO implements if understanding correctly. Could be two different issues for that matter.

 

[us027274]

Clutch. This is what I was afraid of and not what I wanted to hear! Two commentors above say the same thing. And to confirm it this morning I enlisted some help and found some very heavy grass, crawled along beside it while it was mowing and watched the drive shaft {reconfirming this is a belly mower}. Blades stalled completely, so did the drive shaft. Belt never seemed to slip.

The clutch inside the trans has to be either failing or the hydralic valve that engages the pto clutch is faulity. Or even the pto lever linkage needs adjustment.

The first two are beyond my ability to repair. The linkage? Maybe. If anybody has an idea how to adjust that let me know. I've crawled under it and don't see anything that is adjustable.

Reminder that this is a BX2375, not a full-size tractor.

I'm going to limp though the rest of the summer season then take it to the shop this fall when it's slower at the shop. This probably will not be cheap!

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

Its too bad that you don't know someone who can at least check the pressure to see what it is. It's way simpler to replace the pressure valve rather then have to split the case and do the clutches. Using the tractor this way is going to eventually wear them out plus put burnt clutches throughout the hydralic system. This is just my two cents.

 

[us027274]

Thanks tinker. That helps. I've ordered a hydraulic pressure tester as I'm quite sure my pressure is down some. Lots of whistling and the bucket doesn't seem to lift as much. This one hooks up directly to the front implement connections and checks hydraulic pressure.

Now you are probably going to tell me that is a different reading from the clutch. Hope not. If it is, I'll get that kit as well. I don't mind buying tools. Cheaper than the Kubota dealer!

Edit: From reading around it appears the clutch is a separate system. And, that the clutch valve may be the culprit. I should be able to find a gauge for that somewhere.

If it reads low, I'd like to pull it off and clean it first, as some threads suggest is is prone to being clogged. Is the valve hard to change out? Mixed reviews online. One says ten hours!

It takes 3 - 10 seconds for the PTO to engage. Reading suggests it should pretty much be instantaneous.

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

Edit: From reading around it appears the clutch is a separate system. And, that the clutch valve may be the culprit. I should be able to find a gauge for that somewhere.

If it reads low, I'd like to pull it off and clean it first, as some threads suggest is is prone to being clogged. Is the valve hard to change out? Mixed reviews online. One says ten hours!

It takes 3 - 10 seconds for the PTO to engage. Reading suggests it should pretty much be instantaneous.

Yes the clutch is separate place to test. Check pressure first before pulling things apart . What you need to do is order or download PDF WSM for your bx 2370. There are other hyd pressure test areas for different systems on your tractor.
I'm going to be away for awhile Took on a job away from home so I won't be able to help to much at this time. Best thing would be to order the WSM for yours. Sorry I can't be of much more help at this time.

 

[GrizBota]

Clutch. This is what I was afraid of and not what I wanted to hear! Two commentors above say the same thing. And to confirm it this morning I enlisted some help and found some very heavy grass, crawled along beside it while it was mowing and watched the drive shaft {reconfirming this is a belly mower}. Blades stalled completely, so did the drive shaft. Belt never seemed to slip.

The clutch inside the trans has to be either failing or the hydralic valve that engages the pto clutch is faulity. Or even the pto lever linkage needs adjustment.

The first two are beyond my ability to repair. The linkage? Maybe. If anybody has an idea how to adjust that let me know. I've crawled under it and don't see anything that is adjustable.

Reminder that this is a BX2375, not a full-size tractor.

I'm going to limp though the rest of the summer season then take it to the shop this fall when it's slower at the shop. This probably will not be cheap!

I’m thinking the BX has an electronic PTO activation switch? If so, there is no linkage to adjust.

 

[us027274]

Morning: So after discussion above and a bunch of other reading, I need to check the pressure in the clutch. I cannot find a premade pressure gauge setup. Anyone know of anyone who sells them? I've got one on the way for the bucket hydraulic circuit. Not interchangeable, plus the specs for pressure are much lower for the clutch and it should be a gauge that reads up to 200 PSI, not 2000.

If I have to assemble myself, can I use a standard gauge like you'd use on a well pump?

Thanks.

 

[BAP]

When did you last charge your hydraulic filter? Did you clean the hydraulic suction screen? If you haven’t done those within the last 10 hours of use, I would recommend starting there, particularly the suction screen. If it’s ply or partially plugged, it will effect your hydraulic pressure.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yes, though 'well pump' gauges probably only 100 # max ??
just be 100% sure about the threads
you don't want to 'do a Ford' and mate Metric to Imperial !!!