2017 B2601 HST Died unexpectedly

[overmyhead]

Tractor died unexpectedly as though I turned the ignition off or jumped out of my seat.
Tried the key after checking position of pto lever, glow plug indicator lights but no clicking or turn over.
Where do I start?

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good morning. Well I don’t know. But I’d be thinking: If it died unexpectedly when running…I would tend to think it is a lack of fuel or fuel delivery issue. It’s not empty, correct? Anything pinched or leaking or disconnected? But if the starter no clickee/no workee, that could be a separate issue. I’d check the battery and connections…could be going bad or dead? I’d also check your connections. (Check you have fuel, good battery, and electrical terminals & connections tight). Anyway that’s what I would check before ‘calling the guy’. I am sure some more helpful members than I will have some thought as well.

 

[overmyhead]

Good morning. Well I don’t know. But I’d be thinking: If it died unexpectedly when running…I would tend to think it is a lack of fuel or fuel delivery issue. It’s not empty, correct? Anything pinched or leaking or disconnected? But if the starter no clickee/no workee, that could be a separate issue. I’d check the battery and connections…could be going bad or dead? I’d also check your connections. (Check you have fuel, good battery, and electrical terminals & connections tight). Anyway that’s what I would check before ‘calling the guy’. I am sure some more helpful members than I will have some thought as well.

Thanks

 

[Russell King]

I would expect that a safety switch has come disconnected or is defective.

That would stop the tractor from running, stop it from cranking but let the dash lights and ather lights (headlights, flashers…) light up. That is what you described above I think.

If not then pleas state what happens when key is in the on position.

If you were in tall weeds, then look underneath the tractor for damaged wiring.

 

[Steve67]

Yeah what Russell said, I would be checking the safety switch under the seat

 

[overmyhead]

I would expect that a safety switch has come disconnected or is defective.

That would stop the tractor from running, stop it from cranking but let the dash lights and ather lights (headlights, flashers…) light up. That is what you described above I think.

If not then pleas state what happens when key is in the on position.

If you were in tall weeds, then look underneath the tractor for damaged wiring.

thanks

 

[overmyhead]

Yeah what Russell said, I would be checking the safety switch under the seat

thanks

 

[overmyhead]

thanks

checked for loose wires underneath(non)
with key off: flashers work
with key on: no instruments, no turn signals, no headlamps
key turned to start: glowplug indicator lights, but no clicks or starter turn over.
visual check on seat switch: wires are connected, no visual damage, buttons compress and return.
PTO lever off.

Found blown fuse : 10A headlamp/panel #4 in manual
I had an issue back in 1/8/23 with mouse urin on the rectifier connector plug. the wire that charged my battery was corroded completely off at the spade connector.replaced with new spade connector(in the plug) so battery still works/charges.
I'll dig into the panel if it stops raining here.

 

[whitetiger]

checked for loose wires underneath(non)
with key off: flashers work
with key on: no instruments, no turn signals, no headlamps
key turned to start: glowplug indicator lights, but no clicks or starter turn over.
visual check on seat switch: wires are connected, no visual damage, buttons compress and return.
PTO lever off.

Check your fuses.

 

[overmyhead]

Check your fuses.

thanks, went out (between down pours) to check fuses, headlamp/panel 10A blown.I'll dig into the panel next

 

[overmyhead]

thanks, went out (between down pours) to check fuses, headlamp/panel 10A blown.I'll dig into the panel next

inserted new fuse turned key on momentarily(0.5 sec) dash lit. turned keyon again(1.0 sec) lights on then out,blown fuse.
I traced black and red wire at said fuse which I traced (visually) to a relay that when I removed the relay the instrument panel lit up when turning switch to on but didnt blow the fuse but won't turn over. Is it safe to assume this relay is a good starting point?
Ten pin relay with # SC190 55515
Tried attaching pics but file too large.

 

[overmyhead]

inserted new fuse turned key on momentarily(0.5 sec) dash lit. turned keyon again(1.0 sec) lights on then out,blown fuse.
I traced black and red wire at said fuse which I traced (visually) to a relay that when I removed the relay the instrument panel lit up when turning switch to on but didnt blow the fuse but won't turn over. Is it safe to assume this relay is a good starting point?
Ten pin relay with # SC190 55515
Tried attaching pics but file too large.

I had the number the part wrong, #6C190 55513 according to kabota exploaded view of controller relay.

 

[overmyhead]

What does the controller relaydo?

 

[cthomas]

Operator Protection Circuit
It is basically a gateway for all the sensors that try to keep the operator alive. The same one that idiots bypass. This is the master relay that all the sensors report too, the PTO switch, seat sensor, rollover sensor and I do not know what else.

 

[jnschnit]

Have you downloaded the 2601 service manual? If not, here's the link for the pdf download. Might help you or us to isolate the problem.

Index of Kubotabooks/Tractor Owners Manuals/

Looking at the schematic the 10A fuse you mention is fed off the key switch, which then feeds the multifunction switch (headlights, tail lights, directional) then the lights. page 8-M11 of the wsm

 

[cthomas]

Do you have a WSM(work shop manual)((repair information))? If not have is a link.

https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor%20Owners%20Manuals/&file=B2301%20B2601%20Workshop%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Then go to page 300 and their is the information you need to diagnose the OPC.

 

[overmyhead]

Well thank you all, the feedback has helped steer me in the right direction.
The Work shop manual has put some clarity on the reasons and purpose of different parts along with diagrams and references that have helped me grasp to a limited degree the electrical mine field and how to navigate it. Electrical schematics are about as abstract as can be because I dont understand the symbols or what they represent. Calculus was a foreign language to me in school so I stuck with Trigonometry.

Soo, I've been working through the safety switches and I'm a little curious about the HST pedal switch: neutral pedal = 0 ohms.
reverse pedal = open line then jumps to about 28 ohms and climbs slowly
forward pedal = open line then jumps to about 30 ohms and climbs slowly ( 0.1 ohms every second)
Is it good or not?

 

[overmyhead]

Well thank you all, the feedback has helped steer me in the right direction.
The Work shop manual has put some clarity on the reasons and purpose of different parts along with diagrams and references that have helped me grasp to a limited degree the electrical mine field and how to navigate it. Electrical schematics are about as abstract as can be because I dont understand the symbols or what they represent. Calculus was a foreign language to me in school so I stuck with Trigonometry.

Soo, I've been working through the safety switches and I'm a little curious about the HST pedal switch: neutral pedal = 0 ohms.
reverse pedal = open line then jumps to about 28 ohms and climbs slowly
forward pedal = open line then jumps to about 30 ohms and climbs slowly ( 0.1 ohms every second)
Is it good or not?

The engine stop solinoid reads 0 ohms then imediately to 16.1 ohms

 

[overmyhead]

The engine stop solenoid reads 0 ohms then immediately to 16.1 ohms

Will the 9v in the test meter power the switch enough to get a resistance reading like I am getting?

It was brought to my attention that when meter is in auto sensing it will read crude feedback first then seek more sensitive feedback untill it reaches the limits of capability/sensitivity. In short the readings I was getting were 0.0 ohms for both pedal forward/reverse safety switch and stop engine solenoid.

I still don't know if I was getting feedback from the meter itself.

 

[cthomas]

I do not know what meter you have, but, most meters run on a 9 volt battery. To check resistance the switch should be unhooked, but definitely no power to it. Hook the meter up and then cycle the switch. It should go from low resistance(less than .3 ohms) to infinity resistance(---- might display, OC, or OL). Most safety switches are low resistance, but, some have a specific resistance that the module(OPC in this case) has the see. In automotive air bags have to have a certain resistance to prevent a short(low resistance) failing to detect an issue within system. This is done to prevent people from disabling them. Your reading sound like a backfeed thru the system(or voltage still present, but, the meter is draining it). I hope this helps as electronics are hard to understand and even harder to diagnose over the phone(Been in the over the phone tech support role).