2012 B2620, won't turn over and no lights

[b2620bad]

Tractor will not turn over and none of the lights illuminate. Ive been through most of the obvious things to me....lever positions, fuses, battery, chewed wires etc. The first thing I found was a 30 amp fuse that had blown. I replaced the fuse but nothing happened. I've tested from the negative terminal to the terminal with the starter wire on the solenoid with a DC meter. I get full power from the battery to the solenoid terminal. I also ran a wire from the positive side of the battery to the smaller post on the solenoid where the ignition wire connects (nothing happened when I did that? Is that the issue?) I tried jumping the tractor across the solenoid terminals and all I get is a whirring sound? I suspect this could be a problem, but want to make sure that something else like a bad switch may be the culprit. Not sure if this works or not but I did test the ignition plug with a voltmeter, reading jumped around in the range of around .015 to .025 volts. So what I'd like to know is there something I have not checked? Is the solenoid test conclusive and is it a solenoid issue? Is the ignition switch bad? This is my 4th Kubota 4wd tractor so I am very familiar with them...simply have not encountered this failure mode before. Thanks in advance.

 

[cthomas]

Check and clean grounds

 

[b2620bad]

Check and clean grounds
[/QUOTE

Grounds of the solenoid? I did check rightness?

 

[b2620bad]

I checked the solenoid and tightness of nuts on the posts

 

[ve9aa]

Check and clean grounds

That means TAKE IT APART...take some sandpaper (or whatever) to it, until both surfaces are shiny.
Reassemble.

 

[b2620bad]

That means TAKE IT APART...take some sandpaper (or whatever) to it, until both surfaces are shiny.
Reassemble.

 

[b2620bad]

UNDERSTOOD

 

[b2620bad]

Thanks for the suggestion but had no
Impact!

 

[ve9aa]

Checked all PTO and operator sense switches?

Have you load tested your battery?

Have you tried unhooking your battery (in case it's bad) and tried starting the tractor from a jump-pack, your truck, etc,?

Lastly, you could put 12V directly to the starter easy enough (make sure it's in neutral and won't run you over if it starts) and eliminate everything on the tractor except the starter itself.

 

[b2620bad]

No

Checked all PTO and operator sense switches?

Have you load tested your battery?

Have you tried unhooking your battery (in case it's bad) and tried starting the tractor from a jump-pack, your truck, etc,?

Lastly, you could put 12V directly to the starter easy enough (make sure it's in neutral and won't run you over if it starts) and eliminate everything on the tractor except the starter itself.

Hello, Yes I checked everything quite thoroughly….cleaned all terminals to the solenoid and the ground from battery to the frame of the tractor. I tried old school screwdriver from on solenoid post to the other and all that happened was the starter made a whining sound…it did not engage. One of the confusing issues to me is that lights don’t come on…would a bad starter be the reason for that? Is there any module/connector that if bad would cause the tractor not to start and no lights to come on? I tend to think it may be in the ignition switch? Does the failure mode analysis seem logical based on your experience? Thanks

 

[number two]

It's starting to sound like the starter solenoid is defective?
Good Luck!

 

[BAP]

Did you ever get any of the lights to work both on dash and headlights/taillights? If not then you have something more than a starter solenoid problem.

 

[b2620bad]

Did you ever get any of the lights to work both on dash and headlights/taillights? If not then you have something more than a starter solenoid problem.

No lights on Dash…hazard lights or headlights….No lights at all. Got any suggestions on where to go from here other than a repair shop? Thanks

 

[BAP]

Check your wiring over closely, all of it. Look at the wiring in the dash going to everything. If you had a 30amp fuse blow, then there is a good possibility that you have a short somewhere. Possibly a chewed wire. Have you checked the rest of the fuses?

 

[b2620bad]

Check your wiring over closely, all of it. Look at the wiring in the dash going to everything. If you had a 30amp fuse blow, then there is a good possibility that you have a short somewhere. Possibly a chewed wire. Have you checked the rest of the fuses?

All fuses checked several times only the 30
Amp blown. Not being familiar with all the modules under the dash….is there one that if it goes bad it shuts the electrical system down.

 

[b2620bad]

All fuses checked several times only the 30
Amp blown. Not being familiar with all the modules under the dash….is there one that if it goes bad it shuts the electrical system down.

Each connector under the dash was unhooked then put back together after observing for any critter or other damage.

 

[b2620bad]

Well I know more today than yesterday....the 30A slow burn fuse needed to be replaced. Did that turned key, dash lights came on. As soon as I moved the key into start position the 30 amp slow burn fuse blew. I will search some threads to see if any information on what cause of blowing the slow burn fuse may be. If anyone has encountered this issue and has some sage advice it would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[cthomas]

Replace the fuse, unhook the starter solenoid wire and hook that to a test light. Now repeat what you just did with the key. if fuse good starter solenoid shorted/drawing to many amps.

 

[b2620bad]

Replace the fuse, unhook the starter solenoid wire and hook that to a test light. Now repeat what you just did with the key. if fuse good starter solenoid shorted/drawing to many amps.

Please bear with me so I have this correct….I need to get a new slow burn fuse and go through the process as you described? If the fuse does not blow the solenoid is the problem? Thanks

 

[Russell King]

You may want to get a breaker instead of a fuse so it can be reset. Fuses are fine to use also but buy several since you will be going through them until you find the problem.

The suggestion is to eliminate the starter solenoid from the wiring and see if it still blows the main fuse or not. Putting the test light in will still draw power through the wiring that activates the starter solenoid.

You have it correct.