Got me a new to me BX2200 and all four of the deck wheels are froze. I've soaked them in PB blaster let them soak for a while and such three times. I just need to go a notch lower Any tips?
Deck wheels
- Thread starter Uncle Alan's Yard
- Start date
Tappy tap the shaft and the housing with a hammer, keep soaking with KROIL, remove the pins and mow with it to jar things around, try to twist the wheel from side to side, anything that will cause the smallest movement. Don't wail the pizz out of it with the hammer. I've un-stuck old farm equipment from the 1930's using this method. PATIENCE IS THE KEY.
Try heating the deck housing with a torch (NOT the pin that the wheel is attached to, which has the positioning holes in it), and see if they free up when it expands?
Of course that will burn the paint off...
On my BX2200 when set up properly, at the number 4 setting, I think I have 2 and a half holes showing. Looks to me like you might have to go more than just one hole. When I set my deck height up according to the manual, I rarely scalp anymore. For 16 years I was scalping area regularly. Of course, I never wore out my wheels, since they rarely did anything...LOL
Of course that will burn the paint off...
On my BX2200 when set up properly, at the number 4 setting, I think I have 2 and a half holes showing. Looks to me like you might have to go more than just one hole. When I set my deck height up according to the manual, I rarely scalp anymore. For 16 years I was scalping area regularly. Of course, I never wore out my wheels, since they rarely did anything...LOL
Yep I know they shouldn't touch the ground all the time but I'm scalping big time. I think the book says no more than .5 in. I just got the deck level for my 2.5 cutting height. That 60 in deck was a mother to level. Lol. I wish I had a 54.
Yeah, I am not a fan of the decks. I really wish they had a deck like Simplicity does. They never scalp
Yep! My great uncle used to sell them long time ago. Unfortunately simplicity doesn't seem that good like they used to. I might rig up something similar to a simplicity roller.
As you've discovered you are facing a Corrosive 'weld' situation where 'rust' has basically formed a pseudo-weld of the two parts.
Depending on how 'stuck' they are...there are two ways to approach it.
1. Penetrating oil, patience and LIGHT application of force (twisting or tapping downward). IF the corrosion is not too bad this can work. But if really stuck won't do the trick.
2. Brute force to break the bond of the two rusted pieces. Sometimes the application of heat/expansion will help facilitate this.
Just looking at the picture, if it were me....I'd go buy a pipe cap slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. Place it over the shaft, so you don't mangle the top of it and to better distribute the force.
Then use a 3-4 lb. hammer and strike downward on it. As soon as you break the bond STOP and revert back to using penetrating oil until you can twist it easily.
Once you are able to remove the wheel assembly from the deck, clean the shaft and bore and then apply 'marine' grease to each before putting it back together or anti-seize.
I got two of them that way! The one I cut both ends off and going to try tap them out
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
50/50 mix of ATF and acetone seems to be the best 'penetrating' oil. Add lots, let it 'soak' down, add more, wait, ,add more. ONCE you see it dripping on the ground THEN wack the top of the shaft, one or twice, add MORE oil,wait, whack again.
The deck has to be off the tractor and the area just under the pin must be supported solidly with steel so the force of the blow will shock the pin. I had drilled my deck and installed grease fittings to keep the pins from rusting. Then I bought a ZTR for mowing since it was faster than using the tractor. Never liked having to remove the back hoe and loader to cut grass.