I just bought a L185 and I am having issues. When trying to run a 5 foot finishing mower, it seems to run fine for 5 minutes or so, and then it starts to bog down. I have cleaned the injectors, cleaned the radiator and the air filter, and checked and set the valve clearance, none have which improved the condition. The tractor has 1570 hours on it. Any ideas on what my be the problem or what I might check next? The owners manual says it can run this mower, but I wonder if it is just a little short on HP.
l185 losing power when warmed up.
- Thread starter sbarkley1960
- Start date
I'm thinking you have something blocking the flow of fuel from the tank to the engine. Could be some trash and debris at the bottom of the tank. The L185 has plenty of power to run a 5ft hog.
The L185 does not have a water pump, but it does have a thermostat and fan. Does it bog down after the same time if doing less strenuous work? I would check coolant, thermo, radiator and screen to make sure it is not overheating.
It only bogs with the 5 foot finish mower, it runs a 4 foot brush hog fine, but that doesnt take near the power as the finish mower. The parts breakdown doesnt show a thermostat, if there is one I dont know where it is. The problem does seem heat related, but dont think it is overheating to speak of.
Since you mentioned heat related, have you tried hosing out the fins of the radiator and the seed-screen? You'd be stunned at how much gunk gets jammed into the radiator where you can't see it.
So it boggs down with a 5 foot finishing mower but not with a 4 foot bush hog? Thats probably the problem there. The L185 still has power to run a 5 foot finishing mower but its meant to mow down short grass thats keep up on a regular basis. And it doesn't do well cutting thick heavy stuff.
I am just mowing my yard with the finish mower. I am mowing weeds with the brush hog. It takes more hp to run the finish .mower because the blades turn a higher rpm, the gearbox ratio on the two mowers are quite different.
Your correct but there are memebers on here powering a 5ft finish mower with a smaller B series Kubota. The L185 has 18hp at the engine and 15hp at the pto.
Are you having issues with it bogging down with anything else or just the finish mower?
Are you having issues with it bogging down with anything else or just the finish mower?
As stated earlier, its just the finish mower. Thats the implement that takes the most hp to run. I am aware of the tractors output, and it even says in the owners manual that it is capable of running it, and it does for a while.
It is similar to pulling a heavy load up a mountain. You start out good, but after a while the extra pull on the engine causes it to start heating up then you start slowing down, and before you reach the top your in first gear going 15 mph.
I was kinda hoping by now some of the other L185 owners would have chimed in. I know fellow member Gpruss has a L85 and a fel and has done some extensive work with his.
At this point I'm scratching me head and leaning towards the gear box on the mower. Does the gear box have the right amount of fluid or does the spindles need a shot of grease perhaps.
At this point I'm scratching me head and leaning towards the gear box on the mower. Does the gear box have the right amount of fluid or does the spindles need a shot of grease perhaps.
gpreuss
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L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I ran a 5' bush hog for 30+ years with my L185DT. There is a draw on my property that grows grass and ferns like crazy. When the grass gets over 2-3' high I pretty much have to be in 1st or 2nd. I usually used PTO high gear, and turned rpms at the PTO mark (I thought it would do a better job - dumb!). It would whistle like crazy after an hour so, but never bog down. It probably would have done most of the draw in 3rd, if I'd used the 540 PTO gear. I paid attention to the whistle, and generally ran water over the radiator for a while, then refilled it. I never noticed any reduction in power to talk about. If it slowed down in the really heavy stuff, it would pick right back up as soon as the load got a bit lighter.
I thought I read not too long ago that the 185 only had 13.5 hp at the PTO. It does a monster lot of work, for that.
So, make sure you use the 540 rpm PTO gear. That is what most things are made to use. I think the higher gears are to allow fewer engine rpm, if you have enough hp to run them. I find it odd that only the small tractors seem to have 2 or 3 speed PTOs.
It helps to use 2wd, rather than 4wd.
I thought I read not too long ago that the 185 only had 13.5 hp at the PTO. It does a monster lot of work, for that.
So, make sure you use the 540 rpm PTO gear. That is what most things are made to use. I think the higher gears are to allow fewer engine rpm, if you have enough hp to run them. I find it odd that only the small tractors seem to have 2 or 3 speed PTOs.
It helps to use 2wd, rather than 4wd.
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I have a L185 and use it in fairly high and thick grass with a 4 foot shredder with no problem. I would insure that you are in the proper PTO speed (1=540 RPM, 2=750? RPM and 3=1000? RPM) [sorry I don't have my operator's manual handy so am going by memory]
What happens if you switch from the finish mower back to something using less horsepower? Does it stay "bogged down" or will it go back to full power?
What happens if you just run the finish mower without cutting anything?
What happens if you switch from the finish mower back to something using less horsepower? Does it stay "bogged down" or will it go back to full power?
What happens if you just run the finish mower without cutting anything?
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running 540 pto
4 ft brush hog runs fine, you dont even know your running anything.
If you just enage the mower and let it sit and run I am sure it will probably work fine but that really doesnt get anyting done does it? But I can tell you after the tractor is warmed up or lets just say maybe a little hot, you do good just to get it running without killing the engine. At that point you cannot mow with it unless you want to crawl along in 1st gear.
I have replaced all the spindle and idler bearings in the mower, It seems to be running smooth.
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I am still not clear on what happens if it is warm/hot and bogs down and you try to get it cooled down. Does the power return until it gets warmer again?
I guess you could try to get it warm/hot/bogged down and then use a hose to cool the radiator down and then see if you can then use the mower agin until it is hot.
The L185F I own has never bogged down in the short time I have owned it and I shredded in the heat of the summer for a few hours at a time (at least 2and sometimes up to 4 hours) usually running in medium (2H or 5L I think) gear out on the more open parts and in slow gears (2L to 4L?) in the treed part with no problem.
Following the logic path - if it runs fine with everything else and never overheats/bogs down then you can eliminate the fuel system as creating the problem. You can also assume the cooling system is OK (may be right on the edge but OK). This would point to a overload problem with the single piece of equipment (the 5 foot finish mower) and the tractor. If you could eliminate the piece of equipment by getting someone else (with a similar sized HP tractor) to use it and see if they have similar problems. You could also try to rent another similar mower and see if it creates the same problem with your tractor.
I am kind of stumped on this one for anything to do to the tractor. I guess you could pull injectors and have them tested but that is a long shot since it runs OK with other equipment. I would insure that the cooling system is OK since it sounds like it is overheating.
I am not sure how you know if you have a cracked head but I know that if you search for L175 threads and read Aquaforce's restore thread he describes how his tractor acted with a cracked head.
Search for "L175 Sheet metal work ************"
I guess you could try to get it warm/hot/bogged down and then use a hose to cool the radiator down and then see if you can then use the mower agin until it is hot.
The L185F I own has never bogged down in the short time I have owned it and I shredded in the heat of the summer for a few hours at a time (at least 2and sometimes up to 4 hours) usually running in medium (2H or 5L I think) gear out on the more open parts and in slow gears (2L to 4L?) in the treed part with no problem.
Following the logic path - if it runs fine with everything else and never overheats/bogs down then you can eliminate the fuel system as creating the problem. You can also assume the cooling system is OK (may be right on the edge but OK). This would point to a overload problem with the single piece of equipment (the 5 foot finish mower) and the tractor. If you could eliminate the piece of equipment by getting someone else (with a similar sized HP tractor) to use it and see if they have similar problems. You could also try to rent another similar mower and see if it creates the same problem with your tractor.
I am kind of stumped on this one for anything to do to the tractor. I guess you could pull injectors and have them tested but that is a long shot since it runs OK with other equipment. I would insure that the cooling system is OK since it sounds like it is overheating.
I am not sure how you know if you have a cracked head but I know that if you search for L175 threads and read Aquaforce's restore thread he describes how his tractor acted with a cracked head.
Search for "L175 Sheet metal work ************"
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Your problem doesn't sound like it has anything to do with the tractor unless it might be the govenor.
Even the 4' brushog in heavy grass/weeds/brush would still drag the tractor down if the tractor were overheating, or had other issues.
I am betting the problem is on the mower, I realize you stated that you had replaced some splindles and other stuff on the mower, but it sounds like as you run the mower something is heatiing up and causing a binding effect.
Chances are it has it's own drive shaft, then it has multipule blades, spindles, the gear box, and of course belt(s).
Have you tried lifting the mower so it is not actually cutting to see if the tractor would pick back up on the power?
If you stop the PTO when the mower starts bogging down does the tractor pick up power again?
Is there anyone else in the area you know that has a tractor in the same size range as yours that you could try running the mower on their machine to see if it acts the same way?
Try doing some of the things I mentioned with the mower and see if the tractor regains it's power, if so then you just need to double check everything on the mower, I am betting that is where your problem is.
Best Regards
Paul
Even the 4' brushog in heavy grass/weeds/brush would still drag the tractor down if the tractor were overheating, or had other issues.
I am betting the problem is on the mower, I realize you stated that you had replaced some splindles and other stuff on the mower, but it sounds like as you run the mower something is heatiing up and causing a binding effect.
Chances are it has it's own drive shaft, then it has multipule blades, spindles, the gear box, and of course belt(s).
Have you tried lifting the mower so it is not actually cutting to see if the tractor would pick back up on the power?
If you stop the PTO when the mower starts bogging down does the tractor pick up power again?
Is there anyone else in the area you know that has a tractor in the same size range as yours that you could try running the mower on their machine to see if it acts the same way?
Try doing some of the things I mentioned with the mower and see if the tractor regains it's power, if so then you just need to double check everything on the mower, I am betting that is where your problem is.
Best Regards
Paul
gpreuss
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L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I tend to agree with Paul. From the sounds of things, you have tried most of what we can suggest.
When the tractor is bogging down, pick up the mower and see if you can charge ahead in 8th That alone in the field should take just about all the engine can give. If it will do it cold, but not hot then it is the tractor. If the tractor is OK, about the only other thing is the mower. If it is getting hot, something on it should really be HOT. Like if you spit on it, it sizzles.
With my 185, I had no expectations when I bought it. If I got it into grass that stalled it or bogged it down, I just went for a lower gear, and figured that was it.
I know the shorter you try to cut the grass, the more power it takes. With the bush hog I'd settle for 6-8" - anything shorter and the mower frame would dig in in too many places. But it took a bunch more horses to try to mow 3-4". I would imagine you are cutting pretty short, if it is lawn. As Paul suggests, pick it up a bit - or a lot - and see what happens.
I was always more impressed by what the tractor would do, than with what it wouldn't do. I had filled rear tires, dualies, and additional 280 lbs of wheel weights, the front loader, and a 200 lb homemade ROPS cage on mine. I don't believe it would even run in 8th gear. It would still run the bush hog in 4th, up hill. It took really heavy stuff to get me down to 1st.
When the tractor is bogging down, pick up the mower and see if you can charge ahead in 8th That alone in the field should take just about all the engine can give. If it will do it cold, but not hot then it is the tractor. If the tractor is OK, about the only other thing is the mower. If it is getting hot, something on it should really be HOT. Like if you spit on it, it sizzles.
With my 185, I had no expectations when I bought it. If I got it into grass that stalled it or bogged it down, I just went for a lower gear, and figured that was it.
I know the shorter you try to cut the grass, the more power it takes. With the bush hog I'd settle for 6-8" - anything shorter and the mower frame would dig in in too many places. But it took a bunch more horses to try to mow 3-4". I would imagine you are cutting pretty short, if it is lawn. As Paul suggests, pick it up a bit - or a lot - and see what happens.
I was always more impressed by what the tractor would do, than with what it wouldn't do. I had filled rear tires, dualies, and additional 280 lbs of wheel weights, the front loader, and a 200 lb homemade ROPS cage on mine. I don't believe it would even run in 8th gear. It would still run the bush hog in 4th, up hill. It took really heavy stuff to get me down to 1st.
Have you ever shut it down when the bogging becomes a problem and then tried to spin the mower by hand? I'm thinking along the same lines as South 40 and gpreuss, maybe something in the mower drive is getting hot and binding up.