Front Axle Case Oil - Change at Interval or no?

[MOlivin]

Hi all,

Just picked up a '14 L6060, almost has 600h on it. The dealer I picked it up from did the following services on it:
Engine Oil & Filter change
Fuel Filter change
Fuel Filter Separator change
Air Filter change
Trans Oil change
Trans Filter change
HST Filter change

However they do not change the Front Axle Case Oil. I asked why as it's in the service manual? They said they don't change that unless it's leaking and needs to be refilled. They have never changed the axle oil as maintenance.

Question is, should it be changed? Or leave it alone as the dealer said?

If we do need to change it, what do you guys use?

Thanks all!

 

[edisonck]

I bought a new 2019 MX5800 and my front axel fluid was WAY low- as were many others based on other posts. That said, if it was my tractor, I would change the fluid and replace with Super UDT2. Keep in mind that I am an "ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure" kind of person.

 

[fried1765]

Hi all,

Just picked up a '14 L6060, almost has 600h on it. The dealer I picked it up from did the following services on it:
Engine Oil & Filter change
Fuel Filter change
Fuel Filter Separator change
Air Filter change
Trans Oil change
Trans Filter change
HST Filter change

However they do not change the Front Axle Case Oil. I asked why as it's in the service manual? They said they don't change that unless it's leaking and needs to be refilled. They have never changed the axle oil as maintenance.

Question is, should it be changed? Or leave it alone as the dealer said?

If we do need to change it, what do you guys use?

Thanks all!

Do you change the gear oil in the differential of your car every 30K miles?
Similar amount of wear time.

 

[GeoHorn]

As already noted…the front axle is often found to be under-serviced from new.

I’d drain whatever is in there (likely UDT/UDT2/etc) and replace it with 80W90 gear oil for the rest of its’ life…and never again unless it is required for other repairs. Why?
Because the front axle gears are used very little in comparison to the rest of items on the tractor and gear oil will outlast most owners.

The 30K differential oil changes suggested by most newer autos is a waste in my opinion. I change mine every 100K. And my background is a rear-axle specialist-technician trained by Gulf States Toyota Factory school on rear axles and differentials. (Paid my way thru college and flight-school doing that.)

(Think about this…. Most folks agree that synthetic oils will outlast common standard oils. Most modern diffy’s leave the factory with multi-grade synthetic oils. So why are they suddenly in need of 30K mile changes when grandad’s ‘62 chevy/ford/dodge which used gear-oil never needed that? I believe it’s for two reasons: One-it makes more money for dealers who up-sell other items while the vehicle is in-service, and Two- because it is further underwritten by an associated warranty which forces the issue.)

I don’t buy extended warranties….and I change mine every 100K because, One-that’s what has worked successfully for my rear axles for 40+ years, Two-the modern synthetics also have a non-slip additive for the vehicles I own which Does need refreshing. I’ve had Zero rear differential problems with this practice. YMMV

Hope this helps.

 

[The Evil Twin]

If you never use 4wd it'll outlast you. If you do, then you should add the service in somewhere. Helical and hypoid gears do a lot of sliding. Oil breaks down over time.
If you plan to use 4wd a good bit, change it now. Then maybe after another 500 or 600 hours if, like a lot of us, 4wd is never off.
I'm with Geo on the interval thing. For a vehicle, 30k is crazy. I do the truck at 60k but half that is towing pretty heavy. Haven't touched the front diff in the truck though.

 

[JasonW]

Change it. I change mine the same interval as the hydraulic/transmission fluid. I use Super UDT-2. The manual calls for Super UDT-2 or SAE 80- SAE 90 gear oil.
Go down that rabbit hole on which is better.
Just looked at the L6060 manual, recommend changing every 400 hours. Same as transmission fluid, and engine oil.

 

[fried1765]

As already noted…the front axle is often found to be under-serviced from new.

I’d drain whatever is in there (likely UDT/UDT2/etc) and replace it with 80W90 gear oil for the rest of its’ life…and never again unless it is required for other repairs. Why?
Because the front axle gears are used very little in comparison to the rest of items on the tractor and gear oil will outlast most owners.

The 30K differential oil changes suggested by most newer autos is a waste in my opinion. I change mine every 100K. And my background is a rear-axle specialist-technician trained by Gulf States Toyota Factory school on rear axles and differentials. (Paid my way thru college and flight-school doing that.)

(Think about this…. Most folks agree that synthetic oils will outlast common standard oils. Most modern diffy’s leave the factory with multi-grade synthetic oils. So why are they suddenly in need of 30K mile changes when grandad’s ‘62 chevy/ford/dodge which used gear-oil never needed that? I believe it’s for two reasons: One-it makes more money for dealers who up-sell other items while the vehicle is in-service, and Two- because it is further underwritten by an associated warranty which forces the issue.)

I don’t buy extended warranties….and I change mine every 100K because, One-that’s what has worked successfully for my rear axles for 40+ years, Two-the modern synthetics also have a non-slip additive for the vehicles I own which Does need refreshing. I’ve had Zero rear differential problems with this practice. YMMV

Hope this helps.

EXACTLY !!!!

 

[MOlivin]

So drain and fill with
Valvoline High Performance 80W-90 (link from walmart)
This does not say it's fully synthetic or a blend... just SAE. Is this sufficient or should we be looking for a blend?

 

[Smokeydog]

Drained the M59@1100hrs and B26@400hrs front axles. Both were surprisingly dark in color. Replaced with 80-90wt gear oil. Synthetic Lucas in the B26. On our hillside farm they stay in 4wd almost full time.

Older 4x4 Kubotas did the same as advised by the dealer. All with FELs and no front axle problems.

 

[GeoHorn]

So drain and fill with
Valvoline High Performance 80W-90 (link from walmart)
This does not say it's fully synthetic or a blend... just SAE. Is this sufficient or should we be looking for a blend?

It’s fine.

 

[MountainMeadows]

I've been in the transmission + differential business for 40 years. What's the most common cause for failure in these areas? Lack of preventive maintenance.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. When in doubt examine the fluid in question. If it's dark or black in color it needs changing.

Regardless of how often 4WD is used, those gears are always turning when the tractor is in motion. Obviously, when 4WD is engaged, that's when they are under load, and the more often it's used, the sooner the fluid will need changing. Even if you never use 4WD the fluid will break down over time and need changing at some point.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Drained the M59@1100hrs and B26@400hrs front axles. Both were surprisingly dark in color. Replaced with 80-90wt gear oil. Synthetic Lucas in the B26. On our hillside farm they stay in 4wd almost full time.

Older 4x4 Kubotas did the same as advised by the dealer. All with FELs and no front axle problems.

I did mine at 50 hours and it was coffee colored. (Man style coffee, not half double shot triple pump, hold the whip, extra foam). After checking it at 40 hours and found it low, I topped it up. Ended up overfilling a little. What came out was dirty enough to make me spend the extra couple bucks and change it.
I know, I know. Color is not an indicator of service life. But, it did give me a warm fuzzy feeling.

 

[Smokeydog]

The front axle on the M59 took overnight to drain and several days of topping off to fill. 11 quarts.

 

[GeoHorn]

Helpful hint: When re-filling a unit… First, determine if the amount in the unit is FULL …according to whatever indicator the manual states….., THEN ascertain the amount which actually drained-out. Compare that to what the manual claims is the capacity.

Then, refill slowly until the “full” indication … (whatever that may be on your equipt)…. and see if it, ONE-agrees with the manaul, and TWO is similar to what you drained out.

Something I have found helpful: I bought a brand-new pump-up-type garden sprayer….and tossed the spray-head in the trash…. using the hose and valve-controlled-wand to distribute the fluid.

The tank should be marked for quantity….if not, do so yourself as you fill the sprayer tank with the fluid you chose.

I have one of these set up for gear-oil…. Another set up for Hydraulic Fluid…. Others set up for other specific uses. They are often less than $15 each and are opaque, allowing me to see how much is contained and how much is distributed.

Buying some fluids..such as diesel engine oil…hyd fluids…. gear oil….etc etc …in large containers to be poured into the garden sprayers…. makes it possible to buy often-used fluids in bulk / at-discount.

Hope this helps.

 

[MOlivin]

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll pickup the 3gal. of Valvoline 80/90 needed and get this taken care of. I like the idea of the pump sprayer, simple way to measure and force the fluid in there quicker. We'll see what the quantity is in there and will report back.

After going over the services the dealer preformed I noticed that instead of using UDT2 for the hydro oil... they used John Deeres hydro oil (the dealer I bought the L6060 from is a JD dealer) however they did use all Kubota filters. Can't find any spec info on the JD's ty22062 vs super udt2 to make sure it's equivenlnt. I'm opening a new thread for this so this one does not go askew.

 

[GeoHorn]

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll pickup the 3gal. of Valvoline 80/90 needed and get this taken care of. I like the idea of the pump sprayer, simple way to measure and force the fluid in there quicker. We'll see what the quantity is in there and will report back.

After going over the services the dealer preformed I noticed that instead of using UDT2 for the hydro oil... they used John Deeres hydro oil (the dealer I bought the L6060 from is a JD dealer) however they did use all Kubota filters. Can't find any spec info on the JD's ty22062 vs super udt2 to make sure it's equivenlnt. I'm opening a new thread for this so this one does not go askew.

Ask your JD dealer how He would view someone using Kubota fluid in a JD>

 

[MOlivin]

Ask your JD dealer how He would view someon using Kubota fluid in a JD>

I'll ask them if putting UDT2 into a new JD will cause any issues or void a warranty... I'll let you know what they say.

 

[GeoHorn]

I'll ask them if putting UDT2 into a new JD will cause any issues or void a warranty... I'll let you know what they say.

I predict he’s tell you it “may” void the warranty and will hare-lip the pope.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

From the writings of other members here: UDT2 is needed because it keeps the hydro unit cool and properly lubricated, without it the clutch plates can prematurely expire and that's over $4,000 in repair costs.

The front end carries a lot of load and is sized properly for the weight, but only with the correct lubricant. I bought Mobil Delvac 75W-90 full synthetic gear oil because I use 4WD a lot and load the bucket heavy, regularly, plus the tractor will see winter and summer use. According to members 80W90 prevents seal leaks.

From working on Honda shaft-drive bikes I know changing the final drive oil every engine oil change is good practice, even though the service manual doesn't call for it. Moving parts live on lube, lube is cheap, parts & service are not.

So while I don't have experience with Kubota tractors the long-timers here do, and shared their advice on preventing potential problems. From other experience what they say seems spot-on, so I follow their advice, and since it doesn't cost me anything much more in time and just a little more in materials I feel there's no good reason not to--but that's me, your situation will likely differ.