Shop/Shed 30x60
- Thread starter PoTreeBoy
- Start date
I don't know. To me, house slabs seem to look smaller than the finished house.Is it just me, or does it seem to be smaller..now that the walls are mostly up ?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
5/28, 29, 30 - day 3, 4, 5. Plumbed, squared, straightened, and braced the near end. Got the last frame up on one long side. Doesn't look like much progress, but we're getting there.
Trapper Bob
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, Wicked grapple, 6’ bush hog, pallet forks, 7’ box blade, 6’ Wicked bucket
The shop looks really good. Keep your standards high. In the end, it will show in the finished building. Dad always said, “Do it right, or you will do it again.”
1 request, how about a pic from a corner down the long side? (I have building envy pretty bad)
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
You've reminded me to do a mini review. I didn't want to lug a generator and air compressor around, and since I have a fair collection of Ryobi One+ tools, I bought the recently released 30° framing nailer. Having driven most of a box of nails, I can say it's reliable and it withstood 2 drops from 10' (not on concrete, fortunately) without flinching. I'm surprised at how many nails it'll drive on one charge. But, boy, it's heavy. It weighs a smidge over 9 pounds, plus another pound? for the battery.
In comparison, a Paslode battery/gas nailer weighs 7# and a Paslode pneumatic weighs about 6#. When it comes time to nail up siding, I may consider a different tool.
Does anybody hand nail any more? Not around here. My BIL is in the business and they never sell more than a pound of loose nails anymore.
I specified 5" in the slab, but I think it's a little more. I wanted an 8" wide footing, 12" minimum depth below grade. But Humberto's used to local code, so he made the footing 16" wide and same depth. I calculated 37 yards, his worker said they used 5 - 8 yd loads, but Humberto told me they used 6 - 8 yd loads, which I don't doubt for that huge footing.
There's 3 - #4 rebar in the footing and wire mesh in the slab. I didn't see any effort to raise the mesh, so it's probably not adding much. He preferred mesh over fiber, but I'm not sure why. Maybe the fiber doesn't finish as well?
It's supposed to be 3500 psi mix. I tried to keep it damp for 4 days. There's one small shrinkage crack about 1/3 from one end, all the way across. Overall, I'm pleased with it.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Izzat what you meant? It's not straight/plumb yet. BTW, I'm using 2x6 top top plate to stiffen the wall since there aren't any lateral walls to help out.
I have to take a few days off to catch up back home and recuperate.
Trapper Bob
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, Wicked grapple, 6’ bush hog, pallet forks, 7’ box blade, 6’ Wicked bucket
Wasn’t checking your work, just getting a sense of the size. You’re about 6 months ahead of me, living my dream. I do not have my footprint determined yet. I like the depth of your shop.
I want to put a small living quarters on the back of my shop. Not really to live in, but maybe spend a night or 2, clean up, fix some food, nap, ………
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I have about 25 of air nail guns and I wanted to be able to take them on little jobs, But hauling the big compressor was such a pain.
I ended up getting a battery operated compressor.
One battery will run a framing nail gun about half a day of moderate use.
It will run a trim nail gun all day.
I went back-and-forth, round-and-round deciding. My dad and BIL had a 30x50 pole barn built years ago, 6x6 posts, site-built wood trusses on 5' centers. It originally had a dirt floor, but later they had a slab poured. It has a 10' door in the middle of one long side. So Dad's Ford 3930 with 6' brush cutter backed in with the tailwheel in one corner, and my BIL's Ford 1520 with a rear mower fit in with room to spare. Recently Katy, my L35, relegated the 3930 to my sister's 'unused' horse barn hall. I don't think she appreciated Katy's drips.
I'm building in north Mississippi, so no real frost or snow consideration, and no local code for a non-occupied building. My thoughts:
* I knew I wanted a finished floor, so why not pour it first and have a flat work surface? Also avoids wood in ground contact.
* 30' width has held everything we need so far, and I could duplicate the trusses we have if I had to, although they're crude with overlapping joints, etc. 30' - 32' long wood trusses are pretty economical. 32' would have saved a little material waste.
* 60' length 'cause that fit. I started out thinking maybe 80', but when I got the site cleared, it turned out that 60' fit better. I don't have a definite use planned for that area, so it should be plenty. Using a 4' module makes for more efficient material usage.
* Stud frame/wood siding. Here the logic is a little fuzzier and I may have long term regrets. I won't have wood in ground contact, and 3/8" LP SmartSide siding can be applied directly to 16" stud spacing. If I need to add a door, it'll be pretty easy with wood. I think I could have used 4x4 studs on 4' centers with girts to use metal siding.
* Insulation. I don't plan to install insulation right now, but I should be able to install batts in the walls and foil-back sheets under the roof if I decide to insulate.
Good luck with your venture. I thought about living quarters. But, for me, it would have been a place to live until I built a house. So I would have wanted a bigger space, plus any walls, finishing, etc. would have been throw-away cost. And finally, the whole shebang would have to meet local code.
I think I'll come in at around $40k. We'll see.
Hmmm. I didn't really think about that. That's what I should have done. The only Ryobi compressor is 18v, rated at 0.5 cfm. What compressor do you have?
Thank you for posting that! I've been looking at that Ryobi framing gun. I've got most of the old blue tools that still work plus a lot of green ones. The finish nailers are awesome. Now that you have informed me, I'll be getting the framer. I just looked at it today and walked out without it. Next time.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
This is my little portable compressor.
www.milwaukeetool.com
M18 FUEL 2 Gallon Compact Quiet Compressor | Milwaukee Tool
The MILWAUKEE® M18 FUEL™ 2 Gallon Compact Quiet Compressor is only 68dB(A), making it the quietest cordless compressor & quieter than most corded options
www.milwaukeetool.com
LOL! I don't mind heavy if I can get away from a hose and compressor. I don't use them that often but that hose gets me every time.Did I mention it's heavy?
I'd make you a deal on it.
6/2 - day 6. One more frame fabbed and raised + 2 braces. Had to take midday off for heat. Decided to move man door from center of far end nearer the right corner.
