BX2200 Cranks but Won't Start

[chyzikj]

My trusty 2001 BX2200 with 1000 hours has got me stumped. It cranks but won't start. I've tried the most obvious fixes including:
- drain tank and refill with fresh fuel
- replaced both fuel filters
- removed and cleaned fuel injectors (first time since purchased new)
- replaced glow plugs (first time since purchased new)
- replaced ignition switch
- cleaned air filter (using a K&N)

When I replaced the glow plugs the tips of the old ones were sooty/greasy
I checked the old glow plugs and they all "glowed" when I bench tested them with 12V
Fuel pump appears to work - fuel spurts from loose connection near manifold
I have not tested fuel pressure

The next thing on my list is to replace the in-line fuel pump since that's an inexpensive and easy swap.
Interesting note: I tested the voltage on the glow plug electrical bus while in the preheat ignition switch setting and it was only 2V - I expected 12V but just guessing.

Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks in advance!

 

[Russell King]

As far as I know there will be near 12 volts at the glow plugs top to ground. I think it is near 11 but I know that it is well above 2 volts.

So first make sure you have bled air out of the fuel system since you have been replacing filters. I believe your tractor is easy to do by turning the key on for a few seconds (30?) and then off. Then try to figure out the glow plug problem if it still won’t start.

You can probably just apply 12 volts to the glow plug bus for a few seconds using a heavy gauge wire and then remove it and then try to start it.

There is probably some computer or relay that controls the amount of time the glow plugs are operating so I suggest that may be creating some problems and not allowing the glow plugs to get hot enough.

Explain how it has been starting in the past and what has been changing over time to not allow it to start. Or did it just happen to not start all of a sudden?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Fuel stop solenoid, Fuel stop solenoid control (Wiring, fuses, relays, OPC) fuel stop lever being pulled.

Do you have the WSM(aka service manual)?

 

[Wull]

As above it should really be at least 10v that gets there, anything from 10v-12v is ideal, 2v is no use.

You can supply voltage direct to it just to see if it then starts and to rule that out.

To rule out the fuel cut off solenoid see if you are getting fuel at the injectors, crack open the hard lines.

 

[Henro]

Fuel stop solenoid, Fuel stop solenoid control (Wiring, fuses, relays, OPC) fuel stop lever being pulled.

Do you have the WSM(aka service manual)?

i’ve been through something similar with my BX2200. The BX2200 does not have an OPC. And I don’t believe BX2200 has a fuel stop lever. At least I never found one on mine.

I’m with Wolfman and would suspect the fuel cut off solenoid first. It can easily be removed and if the engine starts you know the problem is there somewhere. To shut the tractor down you’ll have to hold the solenoid back in place though.

edit: the normal state of the fuel solenoid is to cut fuel off when it is deenergized and not functioning. It must be energized, and the armature must move before fuel is permitted to flow through the injector pump.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Only 2v on the glowplugs indicates a bad 'main switch' or a serious wiring problem
WSM is at Kubotabooks.com, I just downloaded it to see the wiring.

 

[Wull]

i’ve been through something similar with my BX2200. The BX2200 does not have an OPC. And I don’t believe BX2200 has a fuel stop lever. At least I never found one on mine.

I’m with Wolfman and would suspect the fuel cut off solenoid first. It can easily be removed and if the engine starts you know the problem is there somewhere. To shut the tractor down you’ll have to hold the solenoid back in place though.

edit: the normal state of the fuel solenoid is to cut fuel off when it is deenergized and not functioning. It must be energized, and the armature must move before fuel is permitted to flow through the injector pump.

You can test the connector that goes to this type of solenoid, the internal plunger which has the pull hold function, there are 3 wires that feed it. Switched 12v (hold) cranking 12v supply (pull) and ground.

If you suspect the solenoid to be faulty test the above to confirm whether or not it’s receiving power.

 

[Henro]

You can test the connector that goes to this type of solenoid, the internal plunger which has the pull hold function, there are 3 wires that feed it. Switched 12v (hold) cranking 12v supply (pull) and ground.

If you suspect the solenoid to be faulty test the above to confirm whether or not it’s receiving power.

You can also watch the solenoid operation when it is removed from the injector pump, and the key is turned. This eliminates the need to make measurements initially. While with three wires it shouldn’t be necessary, I believe in my case I had to put a jumper between the solenoid case and the engine block, to ground the case before the replacement solenoid worked properly hanging in the air.

It’s been a couple years, so I may not be remembering correctly. But if I had the solenoid hanging in air, and it didn’t work right, I’d certainly try putting a jumper between the case in the ground just to be sure.

 

[Wull]

You can also watch the solenoid operation when it is removed from the injector pump, and the key is turned. This eliminates the need to make measurements initially. While with three wires it shouldn’t be necessary, I believe in my case I had to put a jumper between the solenoid case and the engine block, to ground the case before the replacement solenoid worked properly hanging in the air.

It’s been a couple years, so I may not be remembering correctly. But if I had the solenoid hanging in air, and it didn’t work right, I’d certainly try putting a jumper between the case in the ground just to be sure.

I’d have thought removing a block connector and testing for voltage would be easier but whatever suits.

 

[Henro]

I’d have thought removing a block connector and testing for voltage would be easier but whatever suits.

Depends on the person, but at the end of the day, voltage on the connector wires leading to the solenoid, doesn’t tell you that the solenoid is actually functioning.

removing the solenoid on the BX 2200 is very easy. Once you gather a couple tools, the actual work is probably less than a minute.

Nothing beats an empirical test, where you actually watch what is happening. I think that’s my only point.

Of course if the voltage is not there at the terminals of the solenoid, it certainly points you to look somewhere else other than that solenoid. It’s just what is easiest for a particular person that may or may not have technical electrical knowledge and understanding.

edit: Even with technical electrical knowledge and experience, I would pull the solenoid out myself, since it’s so easy, just to get a pointer in which direction I should go to fix the problem.

 

[Wull]

Depends on the person, but at the end of the day, voltage on the connector wires leading to the solenoid, doesn’t tell you that the solenoid is actually functioning.

removing the solenoid on the BX 2200 is very easy. Once you gather a couple tools, the actual work is probably less than a minute.

Nothing beats an empirical test, where you actually watch what is happening. I think that’s my only point.

Of course if the voltage is not there at the terminals of the solenoid, it certainly points you to look somewhere else other than that solenoid. It’s just what is easiest for a particular person that may or may not have technical electrical knowledge and understanding.

edit: Even with technical electrical knowledge and experience, I would pull the solenoid out myself, since it’s so easy, just to get a pointer in which direction I should go to fix the problem.

You’re stating that like I don’t actually know. I merely stated that if you suspect the solenoid to be faulty you can do a quick test at the connector leading to it, fact is if there is no voltage there then you know the problem is more than likely before the solenoid, if it were me I’d still test the solenoid etc etc like I have lots of times before. Not entirely sure why you’re replying to me and picking apart what I’m putting when I’m trying to help the OP.

Jeez.

 

[Henro]

You’re stating that like I don’t actually know. I merely stated that if you suspect the solenoid to be faulty you can do a quick test at the connector leading to it, fact is if there is no voltage there then you know the problem is more than likely before the solenoid, if it were me I’d still test the solenoid etc etc like I have lots of times before. Not entirely sure why you’re replying to me and picking apart what I’m putting when I’m trying to help the OP.

Jeez.

No need to care what you know or don’t know. The goal is to help the OP.

 

[Wull]

It clearly does if you’re bringing my original reply into your first post. You could have easily said what you had to with regards to helping the OP without mentioning mine.

 

[Henro]

It clearly does if you’re bringing my original reply into your first post. You could have easily said what you had to with regards to helping the OP without mentioning mine.

I was just going to let this go, but the reason I quoted your post was because it was meaningful and helpful. I was just adding to it in what I hope was a positive way.

So quoting your post was really a positive thing. Sorry you don’t see it that way…

 

[chyzikj]

https://youtube.com/shorts/7JQwke-O_KY?feature=share

I've been out of town for a while and not able to work on my tractor or reply to the helpful suggestions in the thread. I realized while I was away that I had a spare fuel shut off solenoid in my garage. I installed that and, as suggested by others, reached my finger into the high pressure pump to make sure the slide was free (it was - easy to slide back/forth). I installed the new solenoid and tried to start the tractor. No change. I took a video of the results and posted above as a youtube video.(hope it works).
I'd appreciate any continued suggestions.
-Jeff

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

https://youtube.com/shorts/7JQwke-O_KY?feature=share

I've been out of town for a while and not able to work on my tractor or reply to the helpful suggestions in the thread. I realized while I was away that I had a spare fuel shut off solenoid in my garage. I installed that and, as suggested by others, reached my finger into the high pressure pump to make sure the slide was free (it was - easy to slide back/forth). I installed the new solenoid and tried to start the tractor. No change. I took a video of the results and posted above as a youtube video.(hope it works).
I'd appreciate any continued suggestions.
-Jeff

Yes that's not a fuel solenoid issue, it appears to be a fuel metering (bad injectors), glow plug issue, or low compression issue.

 

[Henro]

https://youtube.com/shorts/7JQwke-O_KY?feature=share

I've been out of town for a while and not able to work on my tractor or reply to the helpful suggestions in the thread. I realized while I was away that I had a spare fuel shut off solenoid in my garage. I installed that and, as suggested by others, reached my finger into the high pressure pump to make sure the slide was free (it was - easy to slide back/forth). I installed the new solenoid and tried to start the tractor. No change. I took a video of the results and posted above as a youtube video.(hope it works).
I'd appreciate any continued suggestions.
-Jeff

Try starting the tractor with the fuel cut off solenoid in your hand not attached to the injector pump. If the tractor starts, this would indicate that you probably have an issue with the control voltage that activates the solenoid. If the tractor doesn’t start, then it’s probably wise to look somewhere else, and not the fuel cut off solenoid circuitry.

Granted there are ways to to verify if the fuel cut off solenoid is operating correctly. But the easiest first thing to do (at least for some) is to just try starting the tractor without the solenoid attached to the injector pump. If it doesn’t start, then you know there’s a problem somewhere else (even if the solenoid itself was also bad).

 

[Henro]

Yes that's not a fuel solenoid issue, it appears to be a fuel metering (bad injectors), glow plug issue, or low compression issue.

Without going back and reading the previous posts from the beginning, I would say that we don’t know that the other fuel cut off solenoid that the OP has is good. Also, if it was good, and the original was good, a control voltage problem would result in the same action, since voltage has to be there too enable the engine to start on the BX 2200.

Seems like a simple enough thing to try is to remove the solenoid and see if the engine starts. Doing so would eliminate the control voltage question completely. Or verify that is the area to concentrate on. .

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm just going by the way it's cranking and almost starting to say it's not the fuel solenoid.

 

[chyzikj]

First of all - THANK YOU all for your wise troubleshooting ideas and advice.

No, my tractor is not fixed - but I have an update. Even though (after posting the video of my problem) many of you said it was not likely the result of a bad fuel cutoff solenoid, I tested it anyway and found something interesting. Since I had the new replacement solenoid mounted on the tractor I tested it by un-attaching it, grounding to the frame, and tried to start the tractor. The plunger retracted when the starter was cranking the engine and released (back to it's extended position) when the key was in the "run" position. The tractor did not start - same symptoms as before. For S&G's I decided to test my old solenoid in the same manner. To my surprise the solenoid behaved differently. Like before it retracted when the key was in the "cranking" position, but it stayed retracted while the key was in the "run" position. It released when I turned the key to the "off" position. Isn't this how the solenoid is supposed to operate? If so, my old solenoid is good and the new one I replaced it with is bad. Looking for confirmation from those of you who know better than me.

As for my tractor, I'm trying one last thing before schlepping it to the shop. I ordered three new fuel injectors that should arrive in a day or so. Even though I already removed and cleaned the old ones with no success, I'll see if new injectors solve the problem. If not, I've run out of ideas and will turn it over to the experts at my local repair shop. Thank again for your input.
-Jeff