So my bx2360 won't start. Ongoing problem with this thing dying after an hour or so of cutting grass. I took today off to try to fix 'er but find I am stuck before I start. To troubleshoot I really need to remove the mower deck, change fuel filters and drain and blow and clean and _hopefully_ clear clogs without having to completely remove this tank. Big job on this model. But, I am not sure how to accomplish removing the mower deck without power or if I should even try. Everything I have read and always the way I have done it, is to raise the deck to the TOP via the hydraulic lever and then set the dial to 0 before trying to remove the mower deck. Since the tractor wont start, I cant really use the level to raise the deck and accomplish that. I could try to just try to remove it as is, but unsure of the viability of that and concerned to be getting myself into a "situation". I don't have a hydraulic floor jack but I have considered getting something like that to try to raise it up. But not even sure that makes sense. Thoughts?
bx2360 remove mower deck without power?
- Thread starter OrangeIsTheNewGreen
- Start date
On my BX 2200 the mower deck raises with the three point hitch due to a mechanical connection as far as I remember. I’m thinking yours may be the same set up? If so, you could rig up something to lift the three point hitch arms mechanically, and the deck should rise at the same time.
You could then set the height knob to zero, as you always have done in the past, lower the three point arms, and proceed normally.
You could then set the height knob to zero, as you always have done in the past, lower the three point arms, and proceed normally.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
I put on/take off , my deck with the 3pt it lowered all the way down...and my deck is normally set to 3.5 or 4 (never zero)(BX2380)
I don't recall setting mine to "0" beforehand.........though I suppose it's possible....maybe I am just not recalling that step.
If it's set to 4 or whatever, maybe it won't touch the ground, so when you unhook it, it would fall that extra inch or so and be nigh on impossible to get back on w/o power. ...but to REMOVE w/o power ought not to be too bad. It's just a driveshaft, 2 pins and the front bracket dooey. Don't get stuck between your deck and the ground, mate !
IF it;s really far away from the ground(at its lowest point with 3 pt lowered all the way), you could always adjust the anti-scalp wheels down some, so the final inch or two isn't a massive clunk when you pull the pins. (or put some 2x4's in there under the deck somewhere to cushion the fall)....Maybe the 2 pull/twist pins won't even release with all that weight on it---not sure...in which case maybe a 2x4 could be used to lever up on it against the ground to relieve pressure. Might even take two of you to do it in sync.
I think INSTALLATION would be the real challenge, not the removal.....seems to me it weighs around 225lbs or somewhere in the ballpark.
The 3 pt will lower with the tractor not running.
My 2c CDN
I don't recall setting mine to "0" beforehand.........though I suppose it's possible....maybe I am just not recalling that step.
If it's set to 4 or whatever, maybe it won't touch the ground, so when you unhook it, it would fall that extra inch or so and be nigh on impossible to get back on w/o power. ...but to REMOVE w/o power ought not to be too bad. It's just a driveshaft, 2 pins and the front bracket dooey. Don't get stuck between your deck and the ground, mate !
IF it;s really far away from the ground(at its lowest point with 3 pt lowered all the way), you could always adjust the anti-scalp wheels down some, so the final inch or two isn't a massive clunk when you pull the pins. (or put some 2x4's in there under the deck somewhere to cushion the fall)....Maybe the 2 pull/twist pins won't even release with all that weight on it---not sure...in which case maybe a 2x4 could be used to lever up on it against the ground to relieve pressure. Might even take two of you to do it in sync.
I think INSTALLATION would be the real challenge, not the removal.....seems to me it weighs around 225lbs or somewhere in the ballpark.
The 3 pt will lower with the tractor not running.
My 2c CDN
Thanks, well in theory installation should have power if I can fix. And if not I wont be reinstalling. If its the height gap that is the issue I could probably find a way to lift/wedge/whatever. I appreciate the ideas
JimDeL
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2380; R4 tires; 54" MMM; FEL w Pirahna bar; Ballast Box; BXpanded skid plate.
Put something under the deck to keep it from dropping when you disconnect the lift arms. Once they're disconnected, let the back of the deck down onto the ground and disconnect the front linkage and the PTO.
Once you get the tractor running again, raise the 3PH (the mower lift arms will also raise) and then set the dial to zero. After that, install the deck as usual.
Once you get the tractor running again, raise the 3PH (the mower lift arms will also raise) and then set the dial to zero. After that, install the deck as usual.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Yeah - - not ideal, but you can get it unhooked with some effort.
Turn the anti-scalp wheels first (I think) and lower it down after pulling pins on lift linkage. Then PTO, then front linkage.
I often have to turn the front wheels hard to have room to roll it out. Can be done without engine running.
Turn the anti-scalp wheels first (I think) and lower it down after pulling pins on lift linkage. Then PTO, then front linkage.
I often have to turn the front wheels hard to have room to roll it out. Can be done without engine running.
Thanks all. I replied via emails while outside but I guess they did not go here. i got the mower deck off with the help of some sloped car ramps under the mower deck to alleviate pressure and prybar to get the pulls/pins to start. When I clamped off the hoses and separarted the fuel filter, the tank would not drain. A little air seemed to release the blockage and it started to drain. An extra flush with more diesel and new fuel filters and the tractor starts.
However, getting the deck on has been a chore. I was able to raise the under deck linkage via the side level all the way up since the tractor is on. But the stupid knob wont turn below 3. It goes up to 4 so easy, but trying to rotate it back down I can't go below 3. Even with gloves and as much as I can muster. It's always been finnicky and I am not sure if I am "missing something". I thought the only requirement was raised all the way up before turning the knob. I tried it running and off. The issue with the knob being at 3 I _think_ means that the mower deck linkage does not drop down low enough to engage the slot of the mower risers.
So I tried using the ramps and I was able to get it "up" but only 1 side is seated right. I try moving the thing around and lift if and its just not "enough" at 3 I think. I had to walk away for the evening and let it rest until morning. Too tired and too sloppy, is when I hurt myself
I've considered a 2x4 (long lever) to lift better. Two of us that one time to get that knob turned. Or maybe loosening that bolt sitting in that deck riser channel then retightinging. I have it IN the channel it just wont go below that bolt. Very frustrating.
However, getting the deck on has been a chore. I was able to raise the under deck linkage via the side level all the way up since the tractor is on. But the stupid knob wont turn below 3. It goes up to 4 so easy, but trying to rotate it back down I can't go below 3. Even with gloves and as much as I can muster. It's always been finnicky and I am not sure if I am "missing something". I thought the only requirement was raised all the way up before turning the knob. I tried it running and off. The issue with the knob being at 3 I _think_ means that the mower deck linkage does not drop down low enough to engage the slot of the mower risers.
So I tried using the ramps and I was able to get it "up" but only 1 side is seated right. I try moving the thing around and lift if and its just not "enough" at 3 I think. I had to walk away for the evening and let it rest until morning. Too tired and too sloppy, is when I hurt myself
I've considered a 2x4 (long lever) to lift better. Two of us that one time to get that knob turned. Or maybe loosening that bolt sitting in that deck riser channel then retightinging. I have it IN the channel it just wont go below that bolt. Very frustrating.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
On my TG (for sure) and on my B X (I think), I raise it (the 3pt) all the way up then keep turning it 1-2-3-4-5-1-2-3-4-5
I think it only (easily) goes clockwise.
I stand to be corrected/.
I think it only (easily) goes clockwise.
I stand to be corrected/.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Oh! In that case, I got nuttin'...sorry dude.
Someone smarter than I will wander along with better(more accurate) info. I know "pressure" has to be off of it to get that dang thing to turn. It's nearly impossible on my TG (23yrs old) and finicky on my BX (even though it's only 2-3yrs old)_
Someone smarter than I will wander along with better(more accurate) info. I know "pressure" has to be off of it to get that dang thing to turn. It's nearly impossible on my TG (23yrs old) and finicky on my BX (even though it's only 2-3yrs old)_
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: A little air seemed to release the blockage and it started to drain.
That 'blockage' will probably come back, might be hours or days..... Could be a semifloater' and sooner or later....... sorry. All you've done is blown it away from the exit spigot, for now.
when you've got 3-4 'free' hours, remove the tank,clean it proper, reinstall AND get a screen for the fuel nozzle. Some use 'mason jar cold coffee filters, I used a sink screen. Also consider adding a 'biocide' or whatever is used to kill algae or whatever grows in diesel.
That 'blockage' will probably come back, might be hours or days..... Could be a semifloater' and sooner or later....... sorry. All you've done is blown it away from the exit spigot, for now.
when you've got 3-4 'free' hours, remove the tank,clean it proper, reinstall AND get a screen for the fuel nozzle. Some use 'mason jar cold coffee filters, I used a sink screen. Also consider adding a 'biocide' or whatever is used to kill algae or whatever grows in diesel.
My old BX had a very sticky mower height adjustment. My new B2601 much better. But they appear to be the same sort of dial either way. It's just a cylinder with cutouts at varying depths. If it won't turn it's usually a problem with lubrication, and it can be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled to make it run better.
Hi Again, (OP) thanks for all the help and suggestions I am back in biz. A few notes.
- Yes I did "more" then blow some air but I will need to revisit the tank removal on another weekend. It is quite a process on this model removing the rops and the deck and then the back housing and all the knobs(how?) and connectors and things in the way. I am sure with my slowness and the problems I have I need to allocate a weekend and I am already beyond a two pass mow at this point. Ill probably have to take pics so I can remember how it goes back together. And I should probably clean out a bay in the garage. The shop I have taken it to runs a shop vac to suck out the diesel. Sounds scary to me but an empty tank with a wet vac did not blow me up. I don't think I would ever try that with regular gas though. Probably not "enough" and will need the tank drop again when there is time. Besides there is a gas cap from the gas can in there too. Im still flabbergasted my attempt to save it mid-air bounced it right into the open tank. I have not been able to fish out even with a scope I cant find it.
- I do use diesel green(?) biocide but I have probably been lax lately and sea foam instead. Good reminder.
- Knob Adjustment - I found this video which explains the knob (in case someone comes across this it might help.
TL;DR, the 3PH has to be ALL the way up for the knob to turn. (Though I question if just the mower is enough). I have never actually used the 3PH on this thing, but I am considering a grader for the driveway of feels like bottomless pits. I tried putting the raise/lower selector onto just the back and also on "both rear and mower" and raise to the top. I verified the 3PH was also raising. Even with that the knob still doesnt turn, I wish he would have showed "where" that thing sits, so perhaps some liquid wrench/lube/greasing is still in the future.
- Clear head in the morning helped a lot. I ended up just revisiting the lifting and realized with 1 side attached it was angled and I have to push that 1 side back a bit to get it to seat in the groove. So a push back to seat and a lift into the channel was sufficient here even set at 3. I would not like to do it this way permanently but back in biz for now.
So I am not in an ideal situation but I am at least working again and can get the lawn back into share today. Decide when to tackle the rest on another long weekend to do a bit more thorough maintenance which is needed anyway.
Thanks again!
- Yes I did "more" then blow some air but I will need to revisit the tank removal on another weekend. It is quite a process on this model removing the rops and the deck and then the back housing and all the knobs(how?) and connectors and things in the way. I am sure with my slowness and the problems I have I need to allocate a weekend and I am already beyond a two pass mow at this point. Ill probably have to take pics so I can remember how it goes back together. And I should probably clean out a bay in the garage. The shop I have taken it to runs a shop vac to suck out the diesel. Sounds scary to me but an empty tank with a wet vac did not blow me up. I don't think I would ever try that with regular gas though. Probably not "enough" and will need the tank drop again when there is time. Besides there is a gas cap from the gas can in there too. Im still flabbergasted my attempt to save it mid-air bounced it right into the open tank. I have not been able to fish out even with a scope I cant find it.
- I do use diesel green(?) biocide but I have probably been lax lately and sea foam instead. Good reminder.
- Knob Adjustment - I found this video which explains the knob (in case someone comes across this it might help.
- Clear head in the morning helped a lot. I ended up just revisiting the lifting and realized with 1 side attached it was angled and I have to push that 1 side back a bit to get it to seat in the groove. So a push back to seat and a lift into the channel was sufficient here even set at 3. I would not like to do it this way permanently but back in biz for now.
So I am not in an ideal situation but I am at least working again and can get the lawn back into share today. Decide when to tackle the rest on another long weekend to do a bit more thorough maintenance which is needed anyway.
Thanks again!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The hardest part of the tank R+R for me was removing the seat assy ( heavy and awkward ) AND the 'floor pan' or whatever that big sheet of orange steel is called. Seems NO one was around to help me..hmmmmm.
According to the dealer ,they'd charge 3 hrs shop time.. I took a very slow 3 days as I wasn't in a hurry. The WSM does explain how to do it, pretty simple. I only busted the 0-4 height knob as I didn't know it was a push, rotate 90%, pull off knob, all the others are 'pull offs'. I found a sliver of black plastic in the 'exit spigot'.....so once removed AND adding the fuel inlet screen ZERO problem ,knock on head.....that was 700-800 hours ago.
According to the dealer ,they'd charge 3 hrs shop time.. I took a very slow 3 days as I wasn't in a hurry. The WSM does explain how to do it, pretty simple. I only busted the 0-4 height knob as I didn't know it was a push, rotate 90%, pull off knob, all the others are 'pull offs'. I found a sliver of black plastic in the 'exit spigot'.....so once removed AND adding the fuel inlet screen ZERO problem ,knock on head.....that was 700-800 hours ago.
Ok great thanks. Good to know on that knob. (Ill have to try to remember.) I just ordered the service manual.
