B8200 not charging

[Killfast11]

I know it's either the regulator or the dynamo. Probably the regulator. My question is would it be worth it to convert to an internally regulated altenator and bypass the external regulator? And if so, what changes at the regulator do I need to do?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious, I looked at Kubota online parts... it's a $300 CDN regulator that you can buy elsewhere for $30 US !
have you proved 1) that the battery IS good (takes a charge from say a battery charger, runs anothe rtractor ?
2) that the dynamo does generate 30-40 volts AC at normal RPM ??

If so, buy the $30 regulator. it'll be a LOT cheaper than bodging an alternator and rewiring the tractor.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you do an internal regulated alternator, you'll need to find the alt light wire and power trigger and run those two wires to the new alternator along with a new large power feed wire.

 

[Killfast11]

curious, I looked at Kubota online parts... it's a $300 CDN regulator that you can buy elsewhere for $30 US !
have you proved 1) that the battery IS good (takes a charge from say a battery charger, runs anothe rtractor ?
2) that the dynamo does generate 30-40 volts AC at normal RPM ??

If so, buy the $30 regulator. it'll be a LOT cheaper than bodging an alternator and rewiring the tractor.

Battery does take a charge. It better as it's only about 3 months old

 

[GreensvilleJay]

and a bracket to mount the alternator tot he engine ! That alone probably cost more than a replacement regulator......

 

[Killfast11]

If you do an internal regulated alternator, you'll need to find the alt light wire and power trigger and run those two wires to the new alternator along with a new large power feed wire.

I'm aware of that. Is there anything special to bypass the regulator though?

 

[Killfast11]

and a bracket to mount the alternator tot he engine ! That alone probably cost more than a replacement regulator......

I'm looking at some of the ones that are sized and use the same brackets

 

[Killfast11]

Ok. So from the regulator the green wire and the black wire go to the light.

The 2 Grey wires fo to the dynamo.

The red goes to the 15 amp fuse and hazard unit

The white goes to the 10 amp fuse and the key switch. So assuming this is main power

So hot line from altenator will go to the white at regulator. Sense line can go basically anywhere that has keyed voltage. Indicator will go to the green wire. And black wire will go to ground for the battery lamp

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ok. So from the regulator the green wire and the black wire go to the light.

The 2 Grey wires fo to the dynamo.

The red goes to the 15 amp fuse and hazard unit

The white goes to the 10 amp fuse and the key switch. So assuming this is main power

So hot line from altenator will go to the white at regulator. Sense line can go basically anywhere that has keyed voltage. Indicator will go to the green wire. And black wire will go to ground for the battery lamp

No you will need to run a new much larger wire from the + feed on the starter.
You will disregard the greys, and the black.
The green will go to the alternator.
The white is the sense wire.
The red should be not powered and will need to be taken to either the white on the key switch or another hot out of the switch.

NOTE: This is based on what you're telling me on the wires as I don't have schematic for that model.
And that model was equipped with both an alternator and a dynamo, so verify which you have.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I found this is another post.. perhaps the easiest 'rewire for alternator' would be to cut the old regulator wires and use the connector. This way,it's easy to go back to a regulator in the future. providing you get a low ampere alternator,you won't have to replace any 'main harness' wires.

 

[N3BP]

There are still some leftover Kubota parts out there to convert these machines to an internally-regulated alternator. There is a huge improvement with charging over the dynamo.

 

[Vigo]

However it’s regulated, it shouldn’t charge any more than it needs to. Unless you’ve added a bunch of electrical draw to the tractor somehow that exceeded the capability of the stock charging system, nothing will change just because you now have an alternator with a massive amount of ‘headroom’ that will never be put to use.

Im not against modifying it but without addressing a specific need all it will do is make you ‘feel cool about it’

 

[N3BP]

However it’s regulated, it shouldn’t charge any more than it needs to. Unless you’ve added a bunch of electrical draw to the tractor somehow that exceeded the capability of the stock charging system, nothing will change just because you now have an alternator with a massive amount of ‘headroom’ that will never be put to use.

Im not against modifying it but without addressing a specific need all it will do is make you ‘feel cool about it’

In my case, I have a 9K LB winch that draws a few hundred amps under load. I'd get three full pulls out of the stock battery/dynamo combination before it drain it to the point of not being able to start the tractor. No longer an issue with an oversized battery and 60A alternator. I've also noticed trickle charging takes 1-2 hours on my 7200 with the stock setup, and less than a half hour on my 7200 with 60A alternator, even though the battery is quite a bit larger. The larger alternator helps charge the battery quicker, which in my case, is important.

 

[Killfast11]

Nothing added. If anything I have reduced the possible load by changing the headlights out to led

 

[Vigo]

In my case, I have a 9K LB winch that draws a few hundred amps under load. I'd get three full pulls out of the stock battery/dynamo combination before it drain it to the point of not being able to start the tractor. No longer an issue with an oversized battery and 60A alternator. I've also noticed trickle charging takes 1-2 hours on my 7200 with the stock setup, and less than a half hour on my 7200 with 60A alternator, even though the battery is quite a bit larger. The larger alternator helps charge the battery quicker, which in my case, is important.

Sounds like youve absolutely got a use case for it.

I dont remember what the stock battery size is but ive got a 24dc marine battery in my b8200. I use walmart marine batteries for anything they’ll fit in.

 

[N3BP]

Sounds like youve absolutely got a use case for it.

I dont remember what the stock battery size is but ive got a 24dc marine battery in my b8200. I use walmart marine batteries for anything they’ll fit in.

I believe the stock size would be a group 24.
I also run a Marine battery (9A34M) due to large reserve capacity and the aux screw posts. After modifying the battery tray, I was able to squeeze this group 34 battery in there. If you have a HST machine where the battery is under the operator's seat, your stuck with a group 24.

 

[Killfast11]

I believe the stock size would be a group 24.
I also run a Marine battery (9A34M) due to large reserve capacity and the aux screw posts. After modifying the battery tray, I was able to squeeze this group 34 battery in there. If you have a HST machine where the battery is under the operator's seat, your stuck with a group 24.

An hst, yeah it ain't fitting there

 

[Vigo]

Looks like its in front of the radiator? Hst has an extra hydraulic cooler in that area. Im guessing a gear tractor could choose to use the hst battery area if they wanted to. I actually have two batteries on my b6100, one of them being on the loader subframe. But those things have a weird battery box that wont fit a decent size battery in the first place. Running 2 batteries would not normally be my first choice lol.