Best grease for all fittings?
- Thread starter kub3700
- Start date
The best grease is the grease you use. Not trying to be funny...just get some grease in those Zerks and pins on a regular basis.
You'd be surprised at how seldom some tractors get greased.
I've tried Chevron (red) and Tractor Supply Premium (red and less expensive).
The black stuff seems to get everywhere and is hard to get off. It is cheaper than the red. That stuff is used for disc bearings or anywhere that takes lots of grease.
i have a couple slick-50 '1' grease tubes left. it's water resistant and has the teflon in it, which is supposed to reduce friction, compared to normal grease. has a red base to it… it does last longer on utility and boat trailers, made my old truck steer easier. so i guess it's o.k. haven't been able to find it in the stores for a while now. and it's almost time to buy a box full again...
I bought a case of general purpose grease from Napa a few years ago and I've been please with their grease over all. And I use it on everything that requires greasing.
My dad always drilled into my head when I was a kid "grease is cheap, parts are expensive" Just make sure you keep up with greasing.
My dad always drilled into my head when I was a kid "grease is cheap, parts are expensive" Just make sure you keep up with greasing.
Lil Foot
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Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I, too, am in the "the grease you use is the best grease" camp. I bought a box of (26) tubes & cans of assorted greases years ago for 25 cents each. Over the years I have used several different types on several different applications, and I find no major advantages or disadvantages in any of them, with the exception stated above about red (or blue) greases being easier to see & therefore keep greased areas clean.
I use synthetic grease with moly. Water doesn't wash it out and it stays where you put it. My loader tractor gets used almost every day and I only have to grease it 4 or 5 times a year. There is a difference in grease and you get what you pay for.
The cost of one pin will pay for a case of good grease. The expense of having a boom welded up and line bored will cost more than all the grease you will use in a life time. Save time and money, use quality lubricants.
The cost of one pin will pay for a case of good grease. The expense of having a boom welded up and line bored will cost more than all the grease you will use in a life time. Save time and money, use quality lubricants.
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Undoubtably true on a new or virtually new tractor..... but high dollar synthetics would be wasted on an already worn, neglected beater like mine.
Previous owner neglect is hell.
http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-grease
A bit pricy for disc use. I'd be tempted to not grease as often since I'm such a cheapskate. Then, of course, the worry would creep in. Don't need all that.
Most manufacturers just want you to grease at 10 hour intervals. The specific kind of grease is usually not mentioned.
Lil Foot
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Hey, I almost forgot- my dealer has Kubota brand grease, $33 per tube, & it's not even synthetic.
I agree with the grease often approach. The only thing I would add is that you should be consistent in the type of grease you use (i.e. Lithium base, clay based, etc) as not all greases are compatible. Below is a link to a handy compatibility chart for greases.
If you do change the base type of grease you use in an application, do your best to purge as much of the old stuff out.
http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/grease_compatibility_chart.htm
If you do change the base type of grease you use in an application, do your best to purge as much of the old stuff out.
http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/grease_compatibility_chart.htm
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
This is from an old thread on the same subject, relating to keeping the greased joints clean:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36763#post36763
I keep 2 grease guns charged. One with synthetic and one with "red". I prefer synthetic for most but I use the red on things less costly or less critical.
And I agree, grease that isn't IN the fitting is extra and should be cleaned off. Having layers of cruddy grease and dirt and sand all congealed together is not desirable.
And I agree, grease that isn't IN the fitting is extra and should be cleaned off. Having layers of cruddy grease and dirt and sand all congealed together is not desirable.
Yes, Amsoil makes really good grease. Used it for years and been very pleased. The off-road grease NLGI 2 is what I'm using now. It has 5% moly and really stays where you put it.
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Nothing beats texas refinery grease, we have numerous excavators, dozers and loaders, pin wear is significantly reduced since we switched, compare timken load to any grease and you will see the difference.
Yeah, but it has a minimum order of a case of 50 (don't know the price). A case went for $430 on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Case-50-Tubes-14-Each-TRC-MOLY-880C-C-Grease-80-Timken-Load-NLGI-2-/110969561952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d64d2360
It certainly receives good reviews.
Nothing is a strong word.
Amsoil synthetic polymeric off-road grease has 5% moly and the tinken load rating is 75+.
That better be one huge tube...ridiculous!Hey, I almost forgot- my dealer has Kubota brand grease, $33 per tube, & it's not even synthetic.
May be overkill but I try to remember and grease my antique woods 59m and L185DT every time I use them. Since I have the grease gun out will throw some at every joint I can find. The red stuff seems to run out too fast, changed over to the stuff with moly in it and it seems to be thicker stay put. Agree with everyone above, whatever grease you decide to go with quality grease is good but you still have to use it often on older equipment like mine.