Kubota recommends being easy on the tractor the first 50 hours (should I even mow?)

[GreX]

It appears that the “break in” concept is now in the same category as the 3,000 mile vehicle oil change.

Strongly disagree, I just did a 1k oil change on a new vehicle, even though the dealer said it wasn't part of my maintenance package, and I'd have to pay out of pocket. This guy also disagrees - change that oil -

 

[jyoutz]

Strongly disagree, I just did a 1k oil change on a new vehicle, even though the dealer said it wasn't part of my maintenance package, and I'd have to pay out of pocket. This guy also disagrees - change that oil -

No manufacturers recommend 3k oil changes anymore. Most are 6-7k miles.

 

[soloz2]

I change the oil on new vehicles after 1k-1.5k miles and then change earlier than recommended. My truck is every 10k, but I change it at 5k. My Outback specs 6k, but it's got a turbo and it gets changed every 3500 miles.

Extended intervals came about when there was a push for lowest overall cost of ownership being compared across brands and models. Extending intervals out lowers the "cost" of ownership for that comparison.

 

[hoobie]

I have a BX1880 purchased in 2018 in the summer. Dealer delivered it and explained how to use it. Sadly I've learned from this site that not all dealers do that, which is really a shame. Key things have already been shared here. Run the engine at low rpm until it warms up ( for me I run until the temp needle is moving 1/2 to 3/4 of it's normal operating temp). Engage mower at "low" rpm like around 2000 and then increase throttle to working rpm for the PTO -- it's marked on the gauge. I have a grass catcher, so when I stop to empty it the engine rpm lowered for a min or two. If you aren't doing that, maybe just take a quick break every 45 min or something would be equivalent?

I have always understood warming up diesels at low idle is not recommended. The manual for my mx5100 says to warm up at 1500-1700 rpm which is half throttle. I know my Volkswagen diesels I used to drive wouldn't warm up at all at idle.
My pto rpm is 2700 which is just about wot.

 

[RBsingl]

Unloaded idle for a long period of time is NOT the way to warm up a diesel, leads to wet stacking and other ills. Let it idle at moderate speed (around half or rated or slightly more) for a minute to get the fluids circulating and then put it under MODERATE load to warm up.

It is the same way you should warm up your gas powered car or pickup, once it starts and the idle settles to near curb idle then it is time to start driving but not at full throttle acceleration. With my Corvette Z06 I wait for heavy acceleration until the oil is up to 175-180 degrees which takes a little time with its 10 quart dry sump design.

My last two GMC Duramax diesel pickups have a great cold start strategy built in with the vehicle starting at normal idle speed and then when ambient is around 32F or lower, slowly ramping up to around 1,300 RPM over a minute or so. At the same time, the variable vane turbocharger goes to the most restrictive exhaust setting and the Allison automatic transmission is commanded into gear with the output shaft locked so that the engine has a decent warmup load on it. It is an excellent warmup strategy.

And with tractors, I think a lot of people are glossing over the difference between full throttle and full load. Just because the engine is turning rated RPM doesn't mean it is operating anywhere near full load and that is a big difference between break-in under a reasonable versus a heavy load. I will be doing the first full mowing with my new Kubota F2690 tomorrow and for the first couple of times I will run it at 90-100% of rated RPM for proper cutting action but I will have the deck height set and use a ground speed that doesn't put the engine under extreme loading for those initial hours.

Rodger

 

[Springer]

I've had my BX for 2 years and still don't have 50 hrs on it. Guess I've been breaking it in all this time.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

With your tractor I wouldn't consider mowing with a mmm hard duty UNLESS you are mowing uphill / thick grass for many hours straight in 110 degree heat. (haha) So I wouldn't worry one bit. I would have at it all day.

Now on the other hand I wouldn't pull a heavy piece of ground engaging equipment in 110 degree heat for a 1/2 day as it would basically use all the engine and oil cooling capacity and then some. If this is what is desired I would be kind and make sure I had a few hours of lighter use on it.

 

[nbryan]

I think just getting used to your brand new machine, like taking it easy because it's all new controls, size of machine, hydraulics responses, etc... for you, and unless you're the go-nuts-and-push-whatever-equipment to-the-max-right-away kind of operator (I've known a couple, they break things) you just getting up to speed operating it will be plenty of wear-in for the engine and drive train.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Read the manual. Use your tractor. Repeat as necessary and frequently. Honestly if it’s going to break you want it to happen under warranty during normal use. Mistakes can happen in the manufacturing and the dealer set up…should it happen? NO. Does is sometimes mistakenly happen? YES. Things can vibrate loose and leak or fall off etc. pay attention and focus on the basics before during and after use. Ease into it and use like you plan to. Don’t try to tip it over or see how fast it goes down paved road with the loader raised…you can it’s your machine, but it’s not recommended for that. Use and enjoy….just not with the loader up at top speed.