"Quick disconnect" Chain saw carrier...

[Runs With Scissors]

I don't really have a strong need for a chain saw carrier on a normal basis, but I wanted one still.

Lets visit the scrap pile and see what we can come up with.

Boys and girls, we will again employ the Ansatz method, as I have no idea how/if this will work. It's a build on the fly with no prior planning.

My main criteria is that it is quickly removeable, and of course reliable and strong.

I spent a while holding my saw in a number of positions, in just about every conceivable nook and cranny (i.e. the loader arms, the backhoe area, rear tire area....you name it)

I ended up going with with the age old "on the loader upright" and decide to use the bracket that the loader disconnect pin slides into.

Here are the candidates from the scrap pile.

pic 1 show the 2 candidates for the top piece. I decided on the thinner one because 1/4 inch would be too thick I think.

Pic 2 is my first attempt at getting the proper angle so the saw is vertical (I wish I had 3 arms at that point)

Then I trace the 2 holes on the bracket and clean up all the rough edges.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Pic 1.......I found this aluminum bar with a hole already in it, and it miraculously fit the hole on the loader nearly perfectly.

Pics 2 is a near miss....

For some reason I was thinking that I had to make a hole the size of that bar into the plate, and thinking that "drilling" a hole that size would be a nightmare, I decide to set it up to be bored on the lathe.

I set it up, and indicated it....Then it hit me....What the he!! am I doing? I don't need a hole that size I only nee a 5/16 hole for the bolt to go through.......catastrophe avoided.

Off to the drill press then back upstairs for a test fit.

So far, so good.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Everything looks good, so I mark the hole for the loader pins, retaining pin location and drill it.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I don't have many wood working tools and did not feel like going to my Son-in-laws to use his shop, so I had previously made the scabbard using a 1X 10 and a 1 x 2 board from the 70% off rack at Home Depot. They were pretty warped, but for the price, I did not think it would matter for this project.

I used an old tube of 1/2 used construction adhesive and clamped it up a day or so previous.

I Found a piece of angle iron for the brackets cut them on the horizontal bandsaw, and tacked them on, after test fitting it.

Then I made sure it would fit, and "eyeballed" the angle making some adjustments using the C-clamps.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

The first problem presents itself pretty quickly. I was not exactly surprised at the angle, but I did not predict it ahead of time.

After some fiddling, I decide that there were 3 solutions fix the lean.

1. Just ignore it and roll with it leaning.

2. Use a bolt to go through the bracket to "clamp it down", hence straighten the angle out.

3. Shim the bottom up with a piece of wood.

As it turns out, a 2X4 fit the bill nicely as a shim, so I decide to to go with that.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

After a number of adjustments, I finally get the angle right.

Then I weld on the mounting tabs, drill and bolt it up.

I see 2 possible problems at this point.

1. The saw might/will rock 'fore and aft' as I hit bumps, because there is nothing securing it in that direction.

The solution I came up with was to cut a smaller "nub" and screw it to the "shim" to prevent "fore and aft" movement. The "nub" fits in the tube of the loader "tightly, but not too tightly"

You can see the "nub" at the bottom right of pic 2, (I forgot to take a pic of it directly)

2. The "looseness" of the steel bracket will rub the paint off the loader bracket.

I figure some pads from old inner tubes should take care of this.

The good news is that it takes about 3 seconds (literally) to remove the entire apparatus.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Again, not wanting to make the 1/2 hour trek to my SIL's shop, I remember I used to have a wood plane.

After about 25 minutes of me accusing my wife of misplacing my wood plane...hahahaha....I find it in the bottom of a drawer.

I planed off the construction adhesive that squeezed out and and shot her with some Glossy Gray Rust-O-Lem

I'll post pics of the final set up later (I forgot to take them)

The last 2 pics were taken less than 15 seconds apart.

Now its just a matter of seeing how well it holds up.

 

[mcfarmall]

Here's mine on the loader arm.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Here's mine on the loader arm. View attachment 97405 View attachment 97406

Nice job!

I really like the grab handle too.

I'm 5'8" and was concerned that the saw would block my view of the loader in that configuration.

 

[mcfarmall]

Nice job!

I really like the grab handle too.

I'm 5'8" and was concerned that the saw would block my view of the loader in that configuration.

We're the same height and I can't see anything past the hood so I figured it wouldn't make any difference!

 

[Yooper]

Nice write up!

 

[JimmyJazz]

Here's mine on the loader arm. View attachment 97405 View attachment 97406

Nice Job.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I finally got around to gluing on a rubber pad to prevent scratching of the loader arm.

Normally for a rubber seal, I would use 3M weatherstrip adhesive, but I ran out and forgot to order more, so I found a tube of "Shoe Goo" laying around, and since it works pretty good on rubber I decided to give it a whirl.



Only time will tell how well this contraption will work, but I am please with the results so far.

 

[Smokeydog]

Liked your write up and final product. Carrying tools in the bucket or floorboards is too high of a risk. Securing chainsaws and tools is essential for our efficient tractor work. Like to keep a plastic bar scabbard on the saw while in the holder. Protected while handling or transferring to another vehicle. The scabbard width varies by manufacturer so designed around the “Oregon “ brand. Incorporating other tool and equipment holding to meet our needs. One of the best upgrades to the tractors we made. There are trucks or work trucks. There are tractors or work tractors too.

 

[ferguson]

1/4”x4” plate A pice of 1” key stock & some U H M W plastic / Slips right in between the sub frame and boom mount

 

[Runs With Scissors]

1/4”x4” plate A pice of 1” key stock & some U H M W plastic / Slips right in between the sub frame and boom mount

Love the concept of this.

I am probably too fat to pull it off successfully though, as it looks like it takes up some "isle space"

 

[ferguson]

Love the concept of this.

I am probably too fat to pull it off successfully though, as it looks like it takes up some "isle space"

Ya looking closer your sub frame is differant / Nice job on yours