Hello all, this is the first time I’ve ever posted anything on a forum, so please forgive if I’ve posted in the wrong section. I scored my first tractor a few months ago, traded a 16’ flat bottom boat for it. It’s great for the gardening and general driveway maintenance that I use it for. But I’ve bought a brand new box blade, and using it properly is no fun having to crank the top link manually to pitch the box. So my question, can I add rear remotes for hydraulic top link/ future log splitter and maybe stump grinder? I have no front end loader, so I have no clue where to tie into the hydraulic system to feed the remotes. Also, maybe a link to the parts I would need to purchase to achieve this. Any help is greatly appreciated, and I’m sure I’ll be using these forums A LOT!!!
L2050F rear remote hydraulics?
- Thread starter SouthernTrendkiller
- Start date
Welcome aboard! Your tractor should look like this. You would remove the cap 200 and replace it with an adapter which would have two tapped ports. One port would be connected to the P pressure port on your new control valve. The other port would be connected to the power beyond on the new valve. You would need a third line running from the T tank port on the new valve to the tank, which is the transmission case on these tractors. Some tractors have a plugged opening which can be used, and some folks have teed into the filler port.
The diagrams below show schematically what you need. Since you don't have a loader, you'd want to hook it up like the Standard Loader Valve Configuration, with a relief valve.
A valve like this would give you two remotes. You could go for more or fewer. You'd also need a power beyond converter plug.
The diagrams below show schematically what you need. Since you don't have a loader, you'd want to hook it up like the Standard Loader Valve Configuration, with a relief valve.
A valve like this would give you two remotes. You could go for more or fewer. You'd also need a power beyond converter plug.
I did a little more exploring. I think 2 or 3 different OEM loaders were used on your model. But they all hooked up similarly, as shown below. Looks like your tank connection needs to dump into the fill port. I don't think that hydraulic block 050 is available from Kubota any more, but there are a couple of guys on here that make and sell them.
BTW, tractordata.com shows your hydraulic flow to be about 4.5 gpm, which is small. I wouldn't plan on powering a splitter with it.
BTW, tractordata.com shows your hydraulic flow to be about 4.5 gpm, which is small. I wouldn't plan on powering a splitter with it.
Dang, that was quick! Figured I’d have to wait a few days for a reply. I have a tendency to purchase unicorns. Sucks about the splitter, I kind of figured as much, but if I can run a hydraulic top link I’ll be happy. Any idea how I would go about sourcing that 050 block? Was there a part number I could search and cross reference? Or a way to reach out to the guys you mentioned? And who would you use to purchase these parts, as far as being trustworthy to receive good parts? Sorry for all the questions, I’m new to this. And thank you for your help and swift reply.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can buy good quality products from fit rite hydraulics
the owner is a member here that goes by @MtnViewRanch
the website has a lot of information about the subject.
lead time is 30 weeks from order now. I’m waiting for my order to arrive in April or May.
for the adapter block there is a thread about those that fit older tractors here
www.orangetractortalks.com
that will show you the concept I don’t think the block will be compatible but you can check.
another member @007kubotaguy has used parts (salvage) and may be able to help you with the adapter
good luck with the tractor
Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com
Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.
www.fitritehydraulics.com
the website has a lot of information about the subject.
lead time is 30 weeks from order now. I’m waiting for my order to arrive in April or May.
for the adapter block there is a thread about those that fit older tractors here
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
CURRENTLY SOLD OUT. Making more is a winter project. I will remove this line when I have made more. These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time...
www.orangetractortalks.com
another member @007kubotaguy has used parts (salvage) and may be able to help you with the adapter
good luck with the tractor
Well, it looks like I'm wrong again. As Russell points out, that hydraulic block is not the same as @torch and @TheOldHokie have made. Theirs have 4 bolt holes and yours only has 2. Maybe they are available from Kubota, but dang, they're expensive. One or both of them will probably be along shortly. In the meantime, you could follow the steel line running from your pump back to the 3 pt cylinder and see if there's a similar block there, maybe under your right foot.
Here are the two parts I found on Messick's. One is for the LB400 loader and the other is for the LA450s. One has the ports coming out top-bottom and the other is left-right.
050 75546-68110
230 75541-68110
Here are the two parts I found on Messick's. One is for the LB400 loader and the other is for the LA450s. One has the ports coming out top-bottom and the other is left-right.
050 75546-68110
230 75541-68110
Well I’m glad to know that one can be made, as my neighbor is a machinist/fabricator. I can buy a lot of aluminum blocks for the price that messicks has these adapters listed. When I get home for the weekend I’ll examine the tractor more closely to see what I’m working with now that I have an idea what I’m looking for.You can buy good quality products from fit rite hydraulics
the owner is a member here that goes by @MtnViewRanchFit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com
Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.www.fitritehydraulics.com
the website has a lot of information about the subject.
lead time is 30 weeks from order now. I’m waiting for my order to arrive in April or May.
for the adapter block there is a thread about those that fit older tractors here
that will show you the concept I don’t think the block will be compatible but you can check.B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
CURRENTLY SOLD OUT. Making more is a winter project. I will remove this line when I have made more. These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time...
another member @007kubotaguy has used parts (salvage) and may be able to help you with the adapter
good luck with the tractor
I looked up those part numbers, and after I got up off the floor, I came to the conclusion that I don’t need it that bad! But as you and Russell pointed out, it seems to be a part that can be made. And my neighbor is a machinist who works from home. I’m sure he can make the proper measurements and fab something up for a couple of laying hens. Although I do hope to hear from the guys y’all spoke of that made their own. Gotta say, I’m really impressed with the amount of help I’ve gotten in such short time. You folks are great!
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The various styles of outlet blocks are all simple pieces that can be easily machined from a small block of aluminum. Early on Kubota provided the dimensions in the WSM but now its a big secret. Your machinist friend should have no trouble measuring the bolt hole and port spacing for the one you need. If it requires counterbores for o-rings they dont have to be a dead match for OEM. Anything close will work just fine. Same for the port threads. I prefer ORB because its a superior hydraulic connection and I have the port cutters but per the drawings I have seen Kubota liked NPSF.
Dan
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Thank
thanks for the response. From what I’m seeing and gathering here, the only proprietary part to do this is that adapter to the tractor, and the rest is pretty much basic hydraulics equipment. Nothing else needed from kubota. Correct? If my neighbor can machine that adapter, is it something I should post pics of for anyone who may have this question in the future?
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Once you have the outlet block the rest can be put together with standard OTS components.
Sharing the dimensions for the block would be helpful for others going forward.
Dan
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If you pull the round cover
CAUTION!
You MUST have a tank line on this model and a spool valve with pressure relief built into it or you will damage to the hydraulic pump as this model only has pressure relief after the Three Point control!
You'll need to make an adapter for the tank line, it will dump into here:
CAUTION!
You MUST have a tank line on this model and a spool valve with pressure relief built into it or you will damage to the hydraulic pump as this model only has pressure relief after the Three Point control!
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Great, that seems easy enough. The spool valve with pressure relief, is that because the hydraulics are “open” meaning it’s always circulating? And, would the 4.5 gpm allow me to at least run top and tilt? Did some reading on log splitters, and that’s definitely out until I get a bigger unit.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The pressure relief is because the valve will be ahead of the tractor"s relief and is needed to protect the valve and auxiliary circuits. Without it the system would be deadheaded anytime a cylinder controlled by the valve stalls.
You have plenty of flow for top snd tilt.
Dan
You guys really know your stuff! Thanks for welcoming me to the forum, and for all the information. I will be sure to post some pictures, and dimensions of the fabricated outlet block. I’m a truck driver, so I’m not home as often as I’d like to be. But hopefully this thread can remain open long enough for me to gather parts and have these things made. Thanks again!!!
Justin
Justin
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Pretty basic stuff. Kubota finally got their act together and is now putting the main system relief up front close to the pump but they still use a loader valve with a built in relief.
Dan
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I am planning on posting a thread in the projects sectoon to document the installation of the rear remotes and top and tilt cylinders on my L185 when they are delivered. That will probably provide some good information for you to follow.
@TheOldHokie has already provided the adapter as a prototype of what he would be producing. The cylinders and valves are on order from FitRite and I have located a port on my tractor for the tank return that is currently plugged and should be easily accessible for the fitting and hose connection.
Now NIW has made me aware of the issue of the pressure relief valve position I will be looking into where it is on my L185 just so I am aware of what is happening with the pressure in the circuit.
Good luck with your project
@TheOldHokie has already provided the adapter as a prototype of what he would be producing. The cylinders and valves are on order from FitRite and I have located a port on my tractor for the tank return that is currently plugged and should be easily accessible for the fitting and hose connection.
Now NIW has made me aware of the issue of the pressure relief valve position I will be looking into where it is on my L185 just so I am aware of what is happening with the pressure in the circuit.
Good luck with your project
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Some people have reported using threaded pipe fittings to adapt to the filler. Its low pressure, so not as critical to fit perfectly.
BTW, 1/4" hoses should handle your flow rate. That makes things a little easier to route.
Yes, it's always circulating unless you deadhead a cylinder. Then you need somewhere for the pump discharge to go.
4.5 is plenty for top and tilt.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
I think you will find the OEM system relief valve on your L185 is located in the priority flow divider and is ahead of the outlet block. That said most OTS directional control valves are going to have an input relief. You would have to go out of your way to find one that did not.
Dan