L2650 Clutch Repair

[Vanmark]

I have a L2650 and am having to split it as well. Clutch must be fried as well. I am having trouble splitting. Am I missing something? The only thing I haven't disconnected is the front wheel drive shaft assembly. I thought it slipped right out when split. But I must be wrong. I can't seem to find info or the bolt needed to loosen or remove. Help me if you can. Thanks a lot for your input.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a L2650 and am having to split it as well. Clutch must be fried as well. I am having trouble splitting. Am I missing something? The only thing I haven't disconnected is the front wheel drive shaft assembly. I thought it slipped right out when split. But I must be wrong. I can't seem to find info or the bolt needed to loosen or remove. Help me if you can. Thanks a lot for your input.

It's held in in the rear by a roll pin that goes just under the shat cover.

 

[Fastball714]

North Idaho Wolfman, you never cease to amaze me with your knowledge and diagrams. Glad you are a staff member and on this site.

 

[fried1765]

North Idaho Wolfman, you never cease to amaze me with your knowledge and diagrams. Glad you are a staff member and on this site.

DITTO!
Many of us here, might never resolve our Kubota issues without the selfless help of the wolfman!

 

[GeoHorn]

Yep! He’s Fang-tastic!

 

[Vanmark]

Yes thank you very much Wolfman. I have tried many ways today to get that pin out...I must be missing something important. Will keep trying in that mighty tight spot. I am hoping like crazy this is the last thing since I have been trying for 2 days now to split this thing. Ahhhhhh. I can't see a single thing it could be except the shaft and the shaft cover.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Really that shaft and cover will not "stop it" from splitting.
Are you sure you've removed all the bolts and nuts to split it?

 

[Vanmark]

Really that shaft and cover will not "stop it" from splitting.
Are you sure you've removed all the bolts and nuts to split it?

I was thinking that forever as I was feverishly trying to get that stinking pin out again. I have inspected the bell housing for a bolt I missed more than I care to say. But after another day of disappointment, It is still together. The crack between the bell housing and flywheel housing is approx. 3/4 inch now. It seems to bind somewhere along the housing on the lower right side, near brake pedal side. I even pulled it with my truck today and it pulled the whole tractor and busted a strap I had to the rear of the tractor from a tree. You can kinda tell how my day went. Any help at all is more than greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking your time to help where you can. I will take pics if you wish. Have a great evening.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Give me some pictures, as it really shouldn't be that hard to split.

 

[Russell King]

Are you supporting the two halves of the tractor while trying to pull them apart?

 

[Vanmark]

Are you supporting the two halves of the tractor while trying to pull them apart?

Yes. Update. I got it apart finally. Only rust was holding everything. Clutch just fell apart when I split it. I had to jack up and down at the Bellhouse, each time placing a larger and larger piece of metal in the crack. Each time I released the jack, the bottom of the housing would open slightly. I started with feeler gages in the crack and kept going through many sockets. If finally released after getting about 3 inches apart. Took about 50 cycles of jacking and releasing. Most of the parts inside have to be replaced due to rust. I resurfaced flywheel today.
Would anyone have to torque values on the flywheel bolts? L2650 is the model again.

 

[Flintknapper]

Yes. Update. I got it apart finally. Only rust was holding everything. Clutch just fell apart when I split it. I had to jack up and down at the Bellhouse, each time placing a larger and larger piece of metal in the crack. Each time I released the jack, the bottom of the housing would open slightly. I started with feeler gages in the crack and kept going through many sockets. If finally released after getting about 3 inches apart. Took about 50 cycles of jacking and releasing. Most of the parts inside have to be replaced due to rust. I resurfaced flywheel today.
Would anyone have to torque values on the flywheel bolts? L2650 is the model again.

The trouble was/is you have a Female Tractor. It will split (or anything else) when it gets damn good and ready.

Expect the same thing putting it back together. Good luck Sir.

Flint.

 

[Vanmark]

The trouble was/is you have a Female Tractor. It will split (or anything else) when it gets damn good and ready.

Expect the same thing putting it back together. Good luck Sir.

Flint.

Wow you were right yet again. But all is new inside the bellhousing. I am having real trouble going the last 1/2 to 3/4 inches. It seems to have bound on something and it just won't go any further. I have spent the whole day today and I can't seem to figure out why. Everything lines up nicely it seems. I put a pipe wrench on the front of the engine and I can no longer turn the engine with or without the clutch pedal pushed in. I am defeated today and will go back at it tomorrow. I am thinking that my splines may not be lining up properly. I can't come up with anything else. Please offer any insight.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wow you were right yet again. But all is new inside the bellhousing. I am having real trouble going the last 1/2 to 3/4 inches. It seems to have bound on something and it just won't go any further. I have spent the whole day today and I can't seem to figure out why. Everything lines up nicely it seems. I put a pipe wrench on the front of the engine and I can no longer turn the engine with or without the clutch pedal pushed in. I am defeated today and will go back at it tomorrow. I am thinking that my splines may not be lining up properly. I can't come up with anything else. Please offer any insight.

Loosen it up and try turning the engine again, because if the splines or pilot shaft are not aligned.
Sometimes hooking up the clutch linkage and giving it a good pop will do it.

 

[cthomas]

On the John Deere's I have done I looped a long chain around the front and rear axles on both sides and then jump up and down on chains at the same time(as in two people). No matter how tempting do not use bolts to draw it together. Also center the disc within the pressure plate with one spline up and do the same with the input shaft.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Did you check the pilot bearing to be sure it was the right size and slid over the input shaft? Do you have the throwout bearing back all the way off? So that it is not touching the clutch when you're trying to push it together. If it is a half inch away the spines should be lined up.

 

[Vanmark]

Did you check the pilot bearing to be sure it was the right size and slid over the input shaft? Do you have the throwout bearing back all the way off? So that it is not touching the clutch when you're trying to push it together. If it is a half inch away the spines should be lined up.

Thank you everyone for your great help. I will be getting back at it again today and will definitely try the things you have suggested. I made a mistake that was addressed in your comments though. I was tempted to draw together with the two nuts/studs on the top and now I have rounded off one of the nuts trying to get it back off. I am worried I have put too much pressure on the stud/net at this time and will prob spend the day on that. As you can tell, I am not a seasoned mechanic. But learning more than I wish in some cases.

I did compare the pilot bearing with the one I took out and they were exact same size. I believe the throwout bearing was backed away as far as possible, but will recheck that when I get it back apart. I did put two rachet straps, (big yellow heavy duty ones) one on each side to the back axle and the front, and ratcheted as much as they would take me...maybe I need to jump up and down on them. (2 people at same time like was mentioned). Thank you all again. I will update when I can.

 

[Vanmark]

Update: Yeahhhh. I actually got the nut off without any damage, so I consider that a victory. Everything I tried didn't work, but then I got out my oscillating saw, with metal blade and carefully cut the nut. When it got loose a bit, I was then able to turn it before reaching the threads. But man did it pop when it let go, letting me know far too much pressure was on it. I was worried I would crack the steal tabs but they held on. But not finished yet. Will have to split it back open and see what the issue is about closing all the way. Double-check everything. I will post photos of the insides this time and see if yall see anything out of the ordinary. But what a happy day now that I got the nut off.

I am hoping my experience with this will help others in the future too, since there is little on L2650 Clutch replacement on the web. Just a little.

 

[Vanmark]

ok, update. and in need of your expertise again. It appears that the release bearing on the hub clutch release had gotten cockeyed a bit. Upon closer examination, the hub clutch release was stuck sideways a bit too. It appears the 2 spring pins in the side of the hub had broken off clean and the remaining parts were found in the bottom of the housing. I think it is only cause of lack of experience that I likely pushed the clutch all the way in before it was together and it travel too far off the front of the splines, then on rebound, it got cockeyed. Question: These 2 spring pins ride behind the fork lobes and work to pull the hub back after clutch is pushed in and released, correct? Should I make sure that I replace them with a hardened steel, or should it be another material? I have a machine shop nearby, and didn't wanna wait on the pins from Messicks. I believe that might be the only reason it wouldn't go back together. The release bearing was stuck out and at an angle.

 

[fried1765]

ok, update. and in need of your expertise again. It appears that the release bearing on the hub clutch release had gotten cockeyed a bit. Upon closer examination, the hub clutch release was stuck sideways a bit too. It appears the 2 spring pins in the side of the hub had broken off clean and the remaining parts were found in the bottom of the housing. I think it is only cause of lack of experience that I likely pushed the clutch all the way in before it was together and it travel too far off the front of the splines, then on rebound, it got cockeyed. Question: These 2 spring pins ride behind the fork lobes and work to pull the hub back after clutch is pushed in and released, correct? Should I make sure that I replace them with a hardened steel, or should it be another material? I have a machine shop nearby, and didn't wanna wait on the pins from Messicks. I believe that might be the only reason it wouldn't go back together. The release bearing was stuck out and at an angle.

"didn't wanna wait"
" haste makes waste"
Waiting now...... for certain!