Marrying the crazy girlfriend might be exciting at first but gets old real fast...
Getting used to something you don't like isn't the same as liking it.
Help me decide
- Thread starter soloz2
- Start date
Getting used to something you don't like isn't the same as liking it.
Not sure that's a great analogy. Crazy girlfriends may have compensating advantages. And using a different pedal setup isn't the same as getting married in terms of level of impact.
There's a difference between something that you don't like and something that you're not used to. I personally couldn't imagine having a strong preference for two pedals v's a treadle. You just get used to it, it makes no material difference to me. But maybe some people it gives them pain, or they have another machine with two pedals and don't want to get confused driving both.
Some cars have a foot operated parking brake. You just get used to it. You may like it one way or the other, but it's probably not going to determine which car you buy.
Realized I didn't post an update here. Went back last Friday and brought my SO along. It had started snowing so we didn't sit on either the B or LX, but looking at the LX next to the B there really is a jump in size and the B was already at the top of my budget. In fact, I increased the budget to allow for the B2601 and while the LX might be better for some tasks, I think the slightly smaller B will suit my smaller property better.
We are going to go with a B2601 with LA435 loader and 60" bucket. I'm having the dealer install R14 tires instead of the R4 that were on it already as well as a 3rd function valve. The dealer was adamant the Land Pride 3rd function was better than the Kubota one as it was more comfortable to use and they were otherwise essentially the same so they are installing the 380-354A 3rd function kit. I'm also getting the SGC0660 grapple and a pair of PFL1242 pallet forks.
They said it'll be a few weeks for the grapple and pallet forks to come in and that gives them time to install the 3rd function and tires.
This dealer uses Ballast Star Citrastar 50 liquid ballast so I'm skipping it as looking at the MSDS it's still calcium chloride with rust inhibitors in it. I will go ballast box for now and look for a local Rim Guard dealer if I need more.
I was looking at the KTAC insurance and I like how it will cover my tractor on and off my property as I'm sure neighbors will ask me to help them out from time to time, and my SIL has 5 acres and have some tree work they want to do. I don't have a trailer so helping them would not be right away, but certainly in the future. I know I can get coverage from my homeowners, but that would only cover me on my property. Is there any other options I should consider?
I will need to get a ballast box and I'd like it to be quick hitch compatible and have some additional functionality such as tool storage and receiver hitch. I thought about making one, but I may just buy one as I'm more learning to weld than an actual welder LOL.
Should I consider a wear bar or tooth bar for the bucket? Are these really necessary, or just nice to have?
Anything else I should think about or plan for before my tractor arrives?
We are going to go with a B2601 with LA435 loader and 60" bucket. I'm having the dealer install R14 tires instead of the R4 that were on it already as well as a 3rd function valve. The dealer was adamant the Land Pride 3rd function was better than the Kubota one as it was more comfortable to use and they were otherwise essentially the same so they are installing the 380-354A 3rd function kit. I'm also getting the SGC0660 grapple and a pair of PFL1242 pallet forks.
They said it'll be a few weeks for the grapple and pallet forks to come in and that gives them time to install the 3rd function and tires.
This dealer uses Ballast Star Citrastar 50 liquid ballast so I'm skipping it as looking at the MSDS it's still calcium chloride with rust inhibitors in it. I will go ballast box for now and look for a local Rim Guard dealer if I need more.
I was looking at the KTAC insurance and I like how it will cover my tractor on and off my property as I'm sure neighbors will ask me to help them out from time to time, and my SIL has 5 acres and have some tree work they want to do. I don't have a trailer so helping them would not be right away, but certainly in the future. I know I can get coverage from my homeowners, but that would only cover me on my property. Is there any other options I should consider?
I will need to get a ballast box and I'd like it to be quick hitch compatible and have some additional functionality such as tool storage and receiver hitch. I thought about making one, but I may just buy one as I'm more learning to weld than an actual welder LOL.
Should I consider a wear bar or tooth bar for the bucket? Are these really necessary, or just nice to have?
Anything else I should think about or plan for before my tractor arrives?
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Congratulations on your new purchase!
You have made great choices.
It seems that you have an excellent understanding of your needs & wants !
Depending on what material you plan to scoop….Tooth bar makes a huge difference on machine of that size. I have on my B and it’s necessary IMO. …if planning to scoop heavy/packed/settled materials, it’s helpful on a B size machine.
Sounds like you are on the right track to picking out your new tractor. My only advise is to sit on them all and test them if you can. Don’t think you’ll find many dealers letting new customers start playing in the gravel. Not around me at least.
I use the dealers specs sheets and side by side info comparison so I’m not going in blind and looking at a bunch of sweet tractors knowing nothing about them except what the sales people says. I also find the sales people are much better when I can say what I’m looking for. Maybe it makes them feel like I’m less likely to be a Sunday drive tire kicker.
customer service and a good parts and service department team is a big one for me. That’s who your gonna deal with after you’ve spent your hard earned money.
All the models you’ve listed will likely be able to handle the jobs you mentioned in the op. I sure wouldn’t be worried about what the neighbours think. Go with your gut feelings. Those I should have got this or that one moments really suck in future thoughts lol
Enjoy your new tractor whatever model or colour it is.
I use the dealers specs sheets and side by side info comparison so I’m not going in blind and looking at a bunch of sweet tractors knowing nothing about them except what the sales people says. I also find the sales people are much better when I can say what I’m looking for. Maybe it makes them feel like I’m less likely to be a Sunday drive tire kicker.
customer service and a good parts and service department team is a big one for me. That’s who your gonna deal with after you’ve spent your hard earned money.
All the models you’ve listed will likely be able to handle the jobs you mentioned in the op. I sure wouldn’t be worried about what the neighbours think. Go with your gut feelings. Those I should have got this or that one moments really suck in future thoughts lol
Enjoy your new tractor whatever model or colour it is.
Hi, Here is a quick competitive view ... fwiw. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/b2601-competitive-comparison.61464/
Sounds like you've made the right decision. I agree on machine and on ballast. I would buy the grapple up front, and the ballast box. I personally don't think a quick hitch is necessary, but it depends how you choose to store the implements. If they're even a bit moveable when off the machine then in this size class a quick hitch isn't essential.
I don't have a tooth bar and it's never been a problem for me. I don't dig with my tractor much, and tractors aren't really great for digging. For getting material out of a pile I've never had a problem.
I don't have a tooth bar and it's never been a problem for me. I don't dig with my tractor much, and tractors aren't really great for digging. For getting material out of a pile I've never had a problem.
Good luck with your purchase! I used to have a B7510 (21hp) that is pretty much the same size as the B2601. With all the stumps you have look into getting the Woodland Mill stump grinder. I love mine. The B7510 ran it pretty good just had to go a bit slower. My LX2610 has bigger tire and about 310 pounds of RimGuard in each tire. It runs the stump grinder a fair amount better the old B tended to get "tossed" around a bit if I was being too aggressive on the depth of cut. I don't have that issue with the LX. On the tooth bar I have never used one but it's something you can add later pretty easy if you find you want it.
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
Rumor is Yanmar may be getting out of the tractor business. I would not recommend buying one until that is finalized.
Stump bucket on a machine that light is a bad idea. You will probably tear your FEL up.
Snow removal - good thoughts there...try the bucket first. A rear blade can also be nice. Keep in mind you have a really light machine so if you get a foot of wet snow a pusher isnt going to go very far. A hydraulic angle plow blade will do much better.
Dirt work - how deep do you have to dig for that concrete pad (ie footings, etc)? How is your soil?
No CaCl in the tires...terrible idea. The dealer should be ashamed. What about that is citrus? The Fragrance LOL. Ridiculous.
CHEMICAL Wt. %
Calcium Chloride 20 - 45
Water 53 - 78
Rust Inhibitor 1 – 2
Potassium Chloride < 1
Sodium Chloride < 1
Calcium Bromide (CaBr2) < 1
Fragrance < 1
Coloring
As far as rear wheel ballast...keep in mind you cant easily undo that so if youi want lighter psi on certain parts of your property (ie groomed/mowed lawn, etc) that extra weight will hurt you. On that light of a machine I recommend no loaded rears and to start with 3PTA ballast of some kind (heavy implement or ballast box).
I am biased but I would go with the B2601. Lovely little machine.
At 2-3 acres you may not need a big tractor? I've farmed in the pass with a under 25 hp tractor on 10 acres with no problems. With both a manual (12 speed) and HST. With 2 bottom plows and Disc and 2 roll JD corn planter etc.
Since it might not be obvious, Kubota makes a BX, B, LX, and L all with 25 HP. They are remarkably dissimilar with the L weighing almost twice as much as the BX with a lot more torque and much stronger loader.
soloz2, your money, but is the LX 2610 SU really that much more than the B? You are giving up a lot in loader capability which will be probably needed with a grapple.
I've dug quite a bit with my tractor without a toolbar. I'm sure the tootbar would be better. I think you can try it without first. One thing holding me back is that I like that the bucket edge is straight without a toothbar.
It doesn't seem like you need a QH since you only have one rear attachment in the ballast box.
I will use the loader to scoop some sod and prepare for landscaping. Not an all the time job, but that's where I was thinking a toothbar may come in handy.
Honestly, I didn't price up the LX2610SU. If I were to go LX I'd go with the regular version as I want to maintain a mid PTO so I have the option of a front snowblower in the future. My home is presently in a small pocket that does not get much snow, but 20min in any direction usually gets a decent amount more, and any farther west gets dumped on with lake effect snow. I plan to buy more land in the not so distant future and want to keep my options open.
I also didn't check pricing on the LX. I know it would be a little more and I already adjusted my budget to get the B and I think the B will do what I need. On paper the B and LX are pretty close, but side by side the LX looks a good deal larger.
I absolutely don't need a quick hitch right now, but I'll be picking up more rear impliments as time goes on so anything I get I want to be quick hitch compatible.
I just had to Google what a rotary hoe is. So, use that to break up the sod to make scooping easier? I like it! I had planned on buying a tiller, but that's probably a couple years out as I need the grind stumps first to have room for a garden.
Ah, yes. Tiller. Often available for a good price second hand. I can get one for a very good price, since my brother in law has one he doesn't use. But I don't have a need for one yet.
They're also cheap to rent. I rented one to tear up our driveway. Better to overwork a rental machine than one you own. If you're doing it a couple times for landscaping renting is a good idea. If you're tilling a garden twice a year, then buy one second hand.
On grinding stumps - are you sure that gets you where you want to be? My mother ground stumps at her place for a few trees, then laid lawn. The residual stump below the surface keeps rotting, so every year or so she has a subsidence again, and has to relevel the lawn. Despite it being a really big job, it may be better to dig the stumps out. And really, that means paying a guy with a big machine. Once done it'll be a massively nicer property.
Good day. I went back and re read your first post….that combined with this one replying to ‘I plan to buy more land’….honestly my recommendation would be to buy for what you are planning in future not what you needed this past summer. Once you start to use a compact tractor and see the potential and run into the limitations of the machine, it’s a valitol mix that will have to you buying another. Anyway, just looking at what need to do and want to do, you have some real work there and if getting more land, I don’t know how much, but I’d be careful not to buy too small of a machine, unless you really are confined space to the smaller machine. I think when you look at machines check out the lift capability in weight and calculate that out to either 20lb concrete blocks, or to bags of either sand or your favorite chicken feed, or maybe to gallons of water….that is so you have some way to sort of realize what work could be done. And to be safe the best plan is not opporating the machine at max lift with the loader up in air….think about SWL …maybe that consideration helps give some idea how much you realistic want to lift and move (simply lifting the max weight on a level surface is very different then move the weight).
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
The lighter the machine, the harder it is to get a full bucket of material in general. The tooth bar is nice for really digging into the ground. If you are removing shrubby materials in the woods or really need the bucket to bite into the ground they are great.
Wear bar? IMO not worth the hassle of putting it on. For a homeowner I doubt you will wear that bucket out in your lifetime. That said, totally up to you.
The things to start thinking about now is what you need to maintain and support the machine. Lots of posts here and on TBN about what you need (tools, etc) as a tractor owner. Check them out and ask questions! Here are a few.
Grease gun and a few tubes of grease
extra lynch pins
I would go ahead and get the materials for your 50 hour service.
Filter wrench
spud wrench
A gallon or 2 of hyd oil to keep it topped off
If you plan on pulling things up....chain and shackles
I do most of my own maintenance on my vehicles and outdoor power equipment and plan to continue this trend. I have most tools I would need, but I may need to get different filter wrenches or a nicer grease gun as I anticipate I'll be using a grease gun significantly more often.
It seems the general consensus is that I should consider more a larger tractor. This is something I'll chat with my SO about today. Realistically, I anticipate we will probably not buy more property for another many years and will likely be at our current property for at least another 15 years. When we do buy more land, we want woods so even though a larger tractor may be useful, we would have to keep it smallish to get through the woods. Probably one step bigger than the B would be the biggest we would want unless something major changes.
For the projects I have need of now, a subcompact would be more than sufficient and the only reason I ruled the BX out was the low lift capacity, so the B is one frame size larger than what I would get if I were going with say a JD. I feel the B2601 is sufficient, but I also don't want to buy too small and regret so I'll give some thought to this.
It seems the general consensus is that I should consider more a larger tractor. This is something I'll chat with my SO about today. Realistically, I anticipate we will probably not buy more property for another many years and will likely be at our current property for at least another 15 years. When we do buy more land, we want woods so even though a larger tractor may be useful, we would have to keep it smallish to get through the woods. Probably one step bigger than the B would be the biggest we would want unless something major changes.
For the projects I have need of now, a subcompact would be more than sufficient and the only reason I ruled the BX out was the low lift capacity, so the B is one frame size larger than what I would get if I were going with say a JD. I feel the B2601 is sufficient, but I also don't want to buy too small and regret so I'll give some thought to this.