Torch,awesome build with great attention to detail I know this an old thread andwhat im aboutto do is probably frowned upon, but I noticed you updated it in January of 2023 so I'm hoping your still active and can answer a few questions.
Yup, I'm still around. So is the FEL. Works very well and is one of the most useful accessories a tractor can have. I use it all the time.
#1 you may not have a solid answer for this one but will the snow plow subframe support the added stress and weight of a FEL build, obviously attachment to this frame has to be substantial.? Perhaps someone else can give an answer to this one?
No idea. But I suspect a plow frame is designed with pushing forces in mind rather than lifting forces. The FEL subframe needs to extend from the engine to the rear axle, reinforcing the engine/transmission joint in the process. Perhaps your plow frame will be a suitable base to start with, subject to some additional bracing?
#2 how wide did you make your "cross peice" under the tractor that the towers attach to?
I'll have to get back to you on that, I forget the exact dimension. Wide enough to clear the exhaust on the left and the air filter on the right.
#3 how is the flange with bolt attachment from the towers to the cross peice mention in #2 working out? My original plan for this was to weld my towers to the cross peice with significant gusseting, but if your design is holding up well I may use that design as it's simpler and easier.
No problems to date. The bolts are Grade 8.
#4 perhaps this should be #1 but what size rectangle tube did you use for your towers and arms? I'm planning on 2x4x1/8 wall and hoping that will suffice
Go big or go home on the towers. I used 3"x3" 1/4" wall square tube for the towers. There is a LOT of bending force applied on those towers, what with the bracing to the front bumper and the hydraulic rams. The arms are 2"x3"x 1/8" wall and have been fine.
#5 what are your angles at the "breaks in the arms?
If I recall correctly, I settled on 120°.
#6 how did you figure out the braces from the towers to the front of the tractor, I plan on using 2x2" x 1/8 wall tubing for this I just need to get the angles figured out so they miss the exhaust (mines mounted vertical as well) the air cleaner and also the tires etc. Perhaps you could give me some detailed advice on this?
I used doubled 1"x1" x .120 wall. They are attached to the towers just below the cylinder mount height, on the inboard side. I wanted them as high as possible, but low enough to clear the air intake, etc. when lifting the structure off over the wheels on removal.
The front of the braces are attached to a piece of 3"x3" x 1/4" angle iron, which is bolted to the front bumper with 3/8" grade 8 bolts
#7 the cross "tube" between the loader arms down by the bucket where exactly is that located so it still allows full hood operation. And did you find the single criss tube between arms sufficient?
I'll have to get back to you on the exact measurement. 15" from the joint, perhaps? One tube has been fine.
And lastly #8 what size cylinders did you use for lift and curl I'm planning using cross tube cylinders 18"length for lift and 16" for curl as these are the most affordable options from "rugged made" and what mtly budget allows.
I used 16" long cylinders on all 4. I used 2" diameter cylinders because they were on sale cheaper than 1-1/2" cylinders that day and I figured the heavier diameter rods were less subject to bending. However, if I was doing it over again I'd go with the 1-1/2" diameter cylinders. They are more than adequate to lift the weight that a B7100 can safely lift and they don't take as long to fill, meaning cycle times (full down to full up, etc.) would be faster.
