It's too bad folks think they need to comment on these post. If someone uses a product you don't like do you feel better making comments about it? Must be extremely bored or enjoy an argument.
Oil not dirty
- Thread starter lmichael
- Start date
I think everyone thinks that they have the right to an opinion, but no one else does. An opinion, but definition, cannot be wrong, it can, however, be disagreed with.
There is a simple method to determine whom is correct/incorrect regarding "which oil is bestest for my tracator".
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I think "like" or "do not like" is overly simplistic.
For me the Amzoil issue is about actual documentable experience.
MY documentable experience was that Amzoil was ...... an abject failure!
When all of the connecting rods are no longer connecting the piston to the crankshaft.And just how does a person know that his oil is "defective", anyway?
Ah, I love meaningless guarantees!
Used to be a Royal Purple fan. They were bought out a few years ago. Then read a good non biased article on several name brands. Mobile 1 and Amsoil were in the top on almost every category. RP was near the bottom on many. I have since moved to Mobile 1 since I lost my source for cheap RP and Walmart has cheap Mobile 1. But I would think even if you came in last in all the categories, you would still have a quality oil as they all meet API standards. I’m to the point of just buying the cheapest synthetic out there with the API stamp. If you have a lube failure probably from another reason and not the quality of the oil. The article was about gas engine oil. Can’t find that article as I have looked for it on a few occasions.
Oil filter quality can make a difference…
Hang a cheap oil filter, oil will look darker and get darker faster,
use a good filter, and / or an oversized one, oil will look much different…
Good quality oil helps too..
And you don’t have to spend a fortune,
I use Shell Rotella T5 semi synthetic 10W-30 in small stuff,
and T6 5W-40 in big stuff…
Reasonably priced, easy to find…
Still working through the $3 a gallon stash of T6 in 0W-40 from a few years ago…
Still have a few Champion and Fram Pro Series oil filters from the 97¢ closeout…
Hang a cheap oil filter, oil will look darker and get darker faster,
use a good filter, and / or an oversized one, oil will look much different…
Good quality oil helps too..
And you don’t have to spend a fortune,
I use Shell Rotella T5 semi synthetic 10W-30 in small stuff,
and T6 5W-40 in big stuff…
Reasonably priced, easy to find…
Still working through the $3 a gallon stash of T6 in 0W-40 from a few years ago…
Still have a few Champion and Fram Pro Series oil filters from the 97¢ closeout…
Fram is well-marketed garbage.
Fram orange cans are terrible,
The Tough Guards are good for small air cooled equipment you change the oil at 50 hours,
The Ultras and Fram Pro Series, ment for quick lube shops, are decent.
The Tough Guards are good for small air cooled equipment you change the oil at 50 hours,
The Ultras and Fram Pro Series, ment for quick lube shops, are decent.
Since this is a oily thread. Lotsa concern over DPF and longevity before servicing (plugged requiring a cleaning/replacement). Has anybody Used or looked into Chevron Delo 600 ADF? They are CK-4 approved oil and claim they are ulta low ash which is what contributes most to a plugged DPF over time from what I've read. They claim up to a 2.5 times longer DPF life than the regular low 1% ash oils (Which is still a long time....) Just thought.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
I was a T6 user for years. Last year when it became hard to find, I switched to Valvoline diesel extreme synthetic. At about $30/gallon, it’s not cheap but it has high ratings and is the only oil endorsed by Cummins.
How was it a failure? I am genuinely interested. They were a very long time sponsor of mine and compared exceptionally well up against the leaders- Motul and Repsol.
Feel free to PM me if you don't want things to go off the rails here.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Had a 1986 GMC "Jimmy" diesel (loved it!)
Changed TRANSMISSION fluid and filter at about 65K, and used Amzoil transmission fluid.
Transmission QUIT shifting sometime later.
Assumed transmission failure.
On advice of son-in-law, ("let's give it a shot") drained Amzoil, replaced filter, and refilled transmission with OEM fluid.
The Jimmy began to move...slowly!
Played with it, trying to get it moving over greater driveway distances.
I could eventually drive it slowly on the road.
Drained, and filled with OEM fluid, (and replaced filter) three more times over very few miles.
Seemingly ...ALL GOOD!
Sold the Jimmy another 65K later, with transmission still operating normally.
As I imagine you can understand.
There will be no more Amzoil anything for me!
JimDeL
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2380; R4 tires; 54" MMM; FEL w Pirahna bar; Ballast Box; BXpanded skid plate.
Was the Amsoil fluid listed as compatible with the GM tranny? There are quite a few fluid formulations, and each OEM has their own.
edisonck
Member
Equipment
MX5800, RCR1872 Rotary Cutter, DH2596 Disc Harrow, Ford 860, Ford 3-bottom plow
Back to the topic at hand... And one that I brought up as well as I was concerned when I saw this with my new tractor. Bottom line... The motor oil on my MX5800 quickly turns black after my oil changes. I don't want to get into a oil brand debate, but I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 and Kubota filters. When I brought up this topic awhile ago, most of the replies to my post suggested that it was normal for the oil to turn black. The motor oil on my gas Ford 860 is always clear/clean, even at the end of the oil rotation timeframe.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I honestly cannot (remember) answer that question.
The issue occurred 25 years ago.
I bought the transmission fluid from an Amsoil dealer, and he did know that the fluid was to be used in my "Jimmy" transmission.
He was familiar with my particular vehicle.
He claimed Amsoil transmission fluid worked like magic, compared to OEM fluid.
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fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
That is just the way it works.
Diesel engines usually make the oil turn dark rather quickly.
Diesel is a less refined fuel, and the combustion process is dirtier.
Gas engines ....not so much.
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Oil with a good additive composition will pick up dirt and carry it well until the next oil change when the dirt is drained out with the old oil.
Oil that does NOT have a good additive package will look clean, stay clean, and will NOT carry out the dirt which it could not suspend.
It is a mistake to use the “clean appearance” of the oil to declare that “clean” oil as the better product…because it is NOT doing it’s job of suspending contaminates.
Filters do not “clean” up the oil either. The dark oil will not be made “clear” by Any filter.
The reason Fram filters are lousy is because of their cheap construction using cardboard components which sometimes fail to support the media. When the cardboard construction fails, it allows dirt (actual dirt and metal particles…not simply color) to be sucked up by the pump and sent thru the engine. Purolator makes good inexpensive filters under their own names as well as for many others (SuperTech is one).
There is so much argument about various brands of oil and filters because it’s human nature to wish to believe one has spent ones’ money wisely….. No one wants to be told they wasted their money because they fell for B.S. That would be embarrassing.
So Amsoil, Purple, and other “designer” brands are marketed with a lot of “hype” ….which contributes to the emotions often displayed…. when in-fact, the Amsoil is no better than it’s very similar other-brand-synthetics. Purple food coloring doesn’t make oil any better than the blue bottled SuperTech at WM.
Change oil and filters often….and even the cheapest oil will make your engine last as long as the Designer-Oils…. for a lot less money.
Oil that does NOT have a good additive package will look clean, stay clean, and will NOT carry out the dirt which it could not suspend.
It is a mistake to use the “clean appearance” of the oil to declare that “clean” oil as the better product…because it is NOT doing it’s job of suspending contaminates.
Filters do not “clean” up the oil either. The dark oil will not be made “clear” by Any filter.
The reason Fram filters are lousy is because of their cheap construction using cardboard components which sometimes fail to support the media. When the cardboard construction fails, it allows dirt (actual dirt and metal particles…not simply color) to be sucked up by the pump and sent thru the engine. Purolator makes good inexpensive filters under their own names as well as for many others (SuperTech is one).
There is so much argument about various brands of oil and filters because it’s human nature to wish to believe one has spent ones’ money wisely….. No one wants to be told they wasted their money because they fell for B.S. That would be embarrassing.
So Amsoil, Purple, and other “designer” brands are marketed with a lot of “hype” ….which contributes to the emotions often displayed…. when in-fact, the Amsoil is no better than it’s very similar other-brand-synthetics. Purple food coloring doesn’t make oil any better than the blue bottled SuperTech at WM.
Change oil and filters often….and even the cheapest oil will make your engine last as long as the Designer-Oils…. for a lot less money.
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fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
How does "oil with a good additive composition" "pick up dirt and carry it well" without the dirt being carried, significantly affecting the color of the oil?