Third function valve wires

[Pcekpr]

The wires for the valve broke at the plug where they plug into the module. Can the end of the plug that looks like a phone jack be replaced or do I need to buy the wire harness itself? Any assistance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Donnie

 

[The Evil Twin]

It looks like there is enough wire there to solder back together. Solder Seal connectors are an option if you don't have a soldering iron.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The tab in the connector can be removed, then solder the wire back onto it.
There's a section of the tab slightly bent to lock it into the housing. Gently press it down with dental pick or similar item,while gently pulling the tab out of the housing with needle nose pliers.
Yes it help to have 1 or 2 extra hands for this operation, or tape connector to 'something soild'.
Once tab is removed, uncrimp it, get rid of the wire, strip blue wire, recrimp,solder it. Now lightly bend the 'locking tab' up a bit, push tab back into connector, it'll 'lock'.
done

 

[Pcekpr]

It looks like there is enough wire there to solder back together. Solder Seal connectors are an option if you don't have a soldering iron.

Thanks for the reply. The first wire of three broke even with the plug. I broke the second wire while seeing if I could take it apart. Too short to solder so plan B will be to try removing the insides and reconnecting them to the wires.

 

[Pcekpr]

Thanks for the reply. The first wire of three broke even with the plug. I broke the second wire while seeing if I could take it apart. Too short to solder so plan B will be to try removing the insides and reconnecting them to the wires.

That sounds great! I need to figure out how to get the guts out of it without breaking something else! I'll try it tomorrow, weather permitting.
I called the dealer and learned the type of valve I have has been discontinued! If worse comes to worse, I may have to see about hardwiring it to sort of like the new ones are.

 

[cthomas]

As a backup terminal release tool safety pins work great. Without a better picture I can not tell, but remember the terminal can go either in the front or the back of the connector plastic. Also you may need a new connector, if so try this site. https://connectorexperts.com/

 

[Pcekpr]

As a backup terminal release tool safety pins work great. Without a better picture I can not tell, but remember the terminal can go either in the front or the back of the connector plastic. Also you may need a new connector, if so try this site. https://connectorexperts.com/

Thank you for the reply. I'll try them tomorrow and hopefully they will have the part. I will add to the post when I find the solution!

 

[mikester]

If you have enough wire I'd try and re-crimp using a new connector. Solder connections in automotive/off road are a weak point prone to failure.

 

[cthomas]

Well, okay I will start a war. Even seasoned mechanics become agitated when working on your car’s electrical system. Intermittent difficulties, complex dashboard harnesses, and years of “fix it and forget it” remedies only worsen things. Most electrical problems are caused by a faulty connection, in my opinion. Some applications call for crimp terminals because of their efficiency and reliability. However, corrosion can develop and cause issues with the connection over time. One of the most reliable methods of repairing electronic devices is soldering. It really depends on the personal skill level and location of the repairs. On a trailer it is always soldering and heat shrink tubing, which also gets securely attached to the frame when it is done. I have attended a 2 day class(8 hours each day) on just electrical connections, how to properly make and repair. Crimping isn’t particularly difficult, though there is technique involved. While objective, well-defined technical specs on what is and isn’t a well crimped connector exist, the main points to keep in mind are as follows: The stripped wires or remaining insulation should be undamaged – That means avoiding cut or nicked strands. The insulation shouldn’t be tapered or torn where the insulation was removed. Make sure the conductors at the end aren’t cut at an angle, either. All of these are reasons to use a good stripping tool. GM has had a few recalls that basically eliminate the connector and to crimp and then solder the wires together. The crimp according to GM provides the physical strength to the repair and the solder provides the low resistance. This recall was under the front seats that move back and forth for the airbag within the seat. GM alone has hundreds of different connectors and about 20 different crimping tools. The proper wire and the proper crimper are key. Also remember that any repair needs to be sealed if exposed to the elements, have found failed connectors under the carpet within a vehicle due to wet feet or spills.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Well you've WON the war, as far as I'm concerned !

Crimped connections are CHEAP and WILL fail. Sure ,in a controlled environment a PROPERLY crimped connection is 'ok' but NOT in the 'real world'. The ones where moisture is, where salty water is, where it gets hot and cold, where there's vibrations,......Once a copper wire turn 'greenybluish' it's compromised, needs to be replaced. Most 'copper' wire you'll see in automotive use is actually tinned, copper wire unlike the common household 14/2 you use ( pure copper..)

Yes, crimping is a mechanical 'connection', prone to several means of failure whereas soldering make the 'two' into 'one' and will not fail. I've yet to see any,even reasonably made, soldering joint fail, though I've only made 10s of millions of them over the past 6 decades.

 

[cthomas]

No, war as in difference of opinions. If I do a terminal I use the proper grade of dielectric grease within it. Worked at an auto/tractor repair shop that also did cattle trailer repairs for the Amish around here. So, think of trailers getting dragged thru snow(Amish don't plow snow), rough roads(some that are gravel), and good old farmer repairs(think wire nuts and household switches use in vehicle/trailers/tractors) and my favorite rodent damage.

 

[Pcekpr]

Problem solved. I found the system was made by rw long. I called the company and left a message. My call was returned and the gentleman provided a part number for the upgraded part that was hard wired and no phone jack looking plug to be pulled out by brush! The part number was VALCMWW and cost 80 bucks. I happened to be in the local JD store talking to old friends so I showed my friend Mike the part number. He walked into the parts room and returned with the part!
I should have it repaired by lunch!
Thank you to all that responded with solutions!
We have good people on this site!