Using wheel ramps

DustyRusty

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That was my thought - I do appreciate the clarification from jyoutz about possible rolloff potential. I plan on measuring my front tires and validating that whatever I buy can handle the tire size.

The ramps in post #11 don't handle enough weight as far as I am concerned.

Kevin
I don't trust anything that is made in China and sold at a deep discount to be a very good quality product. I will use their cheap tools but not something that my safety is dependent on. Horror Fright has already had safety recalls on their jack stands, and how difficult is it to make a jack stand that is safe to use?
 

fried1765

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That was my thought - I do appreciate the clarification from jyoutz about possible rolloff potential. I plan on measuring my front tires and validating that whatever I buy can handle the tire size.

The ramps in post #11 don't handle enough weight as far as I am concerned.

Kevin
I do have the steel ramps shown in post#11, but I would also not even consider putting the front end of my L48 TLB on them.
Those ramps are just fine for my little Toyota Corolla though.

As far as rolloff potential is concerned....... I use chocks behind all four wheels anytime/everytime/on everything!
 
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fried1765

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I don't trust anything that is made in China and sold at a deep discount to be a very good quality product. I will use their cheap tools but not something that my safety is dependent on. Horror Fright has already had safety recalls on their jack stands, and how difficult is it to make a jack stand that is safe to use?
I don't trust HF unattended electrical equipment either.
Example: battery chargers
 

TheOldHokie

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I use ramps all the time. Then I add cribbing and back that up with cast in place concrete columns. The final step before getting under the machine is to drill holes in the floor and use anchors to secure blocks fore and aft of the other tires.

You really cant be too careful when working under raised loads :unsure:

Dan
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
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I use ramps all the time. Then I add cribbing and back that up with cast in place concrete columns. The final step before getting under the machine is to drill holes in the floor and use anchors to secure blocks fore and aft of the other tires.

You really cant be too careful when working under raised loads :unsure:

Dan
I use ramps too (steel), but those Rhino ramps seem to have very poor feedback!
They looked interesting to me, but not anymore!
 

tbk5

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I use the resin ramps for my cars. I don't know what brand they are and they are only rated 10k lbs. I bought them at autozone so I assume they are chinese. They have a lip in the front to keep from driving off of them. I just use the parking brake rather the chocks that they also sell. They are great for oil changes. I had metal ones that I got rid of for two reasons. First they had a steeper incline so the front bumper trim would hit them. Second, the metal ones often slid on the garage floor as I drove up. The resin ramps stay put.

You can buy heavy duty truck ramps for $1k-$3k if you want something surdier but they would be much more difficult to move arround. Ultimately you need to decide what you are comfortable with.

I'm curious now. I parked one of my tractors on the 10k ramps for the night. If something happens, I'll let you know. The calculated total weight of the tractor with loaded tires, loader and backhoe is ~6k lbs.
 

muttbarker

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Oakley, Utah
I use the resin ramps for my cars. I don't know what brand they are and they are only rated 10k lbs. I bought them at autozone so I assume they are chinese. They have a lip in the front to keep from driving off of them. I just use the parking brake rather the chocks that they also sell. They are great for oil changes. I had metal ones that I got rid of for two reasons. First they had a steeper incline so the front bumper trim would hit them. Second, the metal ones often slid on the garage floor as I drove up. The resin ramps stay put.

You can buy heavy duty truck ramps for $1k-$3k if you want something surdier but they would be much more difficult to move arround. Ultimately you need to decide what you are comfortable with.

I'm curious now. I parked one of my tractors on the 10k ramps for the night. If something happens, I'll let you know. The calculated total weight of the tractor with loaded tires, loader and backhoe is ~6k lbs.
Thanks for the feedback and the "test" - looking forward to hearing what you have to say. I looked at the truck ramps and they weigh 200 lbs each on average. I have read good and bad on Rhino ramps but looking at the 16,000 ramp that = 8,000 lbs per wheel. I think there is a fair amount "fudge factor" at that weight when my total GVM will be under 6K also. On Amazon they get 4.5 stars with under 5% 1 and 2 stars.

Kevin
 

BigG

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I bought the 10 or 11,000 lb. resin ramps from Harbor Freight. They broke the first time we put the GMC dually on them. Exchanged them for a second pair of ramps. Both times they were sitting on blacktop. Both times they broke.

So I cut a 2 (2 x 12 x 24) then 3 (4 x 4 x 11 1/4) for each ramp. I then screwed the 3 ( 4 x 4 ) across the grain evenly spaced. I then added the second 2 x 12. We use the aluminum ramps from the dump trailer to drive up onto the blocks. Some time we use the floor jack to pick up the tire to place the block under it. The front of the tractor goes up with the FEL and set the tires onto the blocks.
 

Burg

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I simply use Rail Road ties, cut at about a 30 degree angle whole tie for longer ramp, half tie shorter ramp. Have a set at both places.
 

The Evil Twin

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Thanks for the feedback and the "test" - looking forward to hearing what you have to say. I looked at the truck ramps and they weigh 200 lbs each on average. I have read good and bad on Rhino ramps but looking at the 16,000 ramp that = 8,000 lbs per wheel. I think there is a fair amount "fudge factor" at that weight when my total GVM will be under 6K also. On Amazon they get 4.5 stars with under 5% 1 and 2 stars.

Kevin
Don't believe all the reviews. I've been contacted numerous times by sellers offering me free stuff/ refunds/ gift cards to edit my reviews.
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
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I have a 9000-pound 4 post-Bend Pak lift, which is good enough for me. I have 2 sets of the Rhino ramps for my Corvair or my 1962 Chevrolet station wagon, and I have never had any issues with them. It might be because my cars are lightweights compared to a Ford F550.
 

GBJeffOH

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L4060, EA Grapple, 6' LP Brush Hog, 8' snow plow, 6' LP tiller, EA Forks, Spraye
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Jefferson, Ohio
I have a L4060 and during the winter I run the front end 4 point quick hitch with a snowblower. As I get older and the joints get stiffer I find it harder to get underneath the tractor to do the fun tasks like greasing the u-joints. Wondering if anyone on here uses wheel ramps to raise the front end of the tractor (with chocks for the rear wheels of course.)

Would love any feedback or insight on this one. Searched the forum and came up empty.
Thanks,
Kevin Barker
I pick up the front end with the loader. Then I put railroad ties about 2' long under the tires.

Can't do the with the snowblower.
 

tbk5

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It turns out that I have the Rhino brand 10k ramps. I use them for my cars and for my truck (a GMC 2500 duramax) all the time. I tested with my tractor and they held up just fine. I was comfortable driving the front wheels. on. I was a little nervous backing up onto the ramps because the rear wheels (R4s) are significantly wider than the ramps but it worked.

I should note that I always put jack stands in place after I drive onto the ramps for extra safety.
 
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muttbarker

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Kubota L4060 HST, Snowblower, FEL, Rear Blade, 60" Grapple, 6' Bush Hog, Forks
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Oakley, Utah
It turns out that I have the Rhino brand 10k ramps. I use them for my cars and for my truck (a GMC 2500 duramax) all the time. I tested with my tractor and they held up just fine. I was comfortable driving the front wheels. on. I was a little nervous backing up onto the ramps because the rear wheels (R4s) are significantly wider than the ramps but it worked.

I should note that I always put jack stands in place after I drive onto the ramps for extra safety.
Thank you for that feedback. I will incorporate jack stands into my setup.

kevin
 
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