how to add a torque limiting clutch or shear pin to B2650 snowblower drive line

[oldryder1973]

once again I have to disassemble the internal drive mechanism on this snowblower due to an impeller jammed with debris. I'd like to add a torque limiting clutch or even a readily accessible drive line shear pin (probably cheaper) to make this much less of a hassle. I figured before I started designing something I'd ask here as it's entirely possible on something this old someone has already done it. thx to anyone taking the time to offer advice. mark in MN

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Easiest thing, buy a new drive line that has a shear pin assembly on it.

 

[oldryder1973]

Easiest thing, buy a new drive line that has a shear pin assembly on it.

Thx for suggestion. driveline is 3 piece, a driveshaft from rear differential to a rigid mounted coupler and then a 2nd driveshaft from the coupler to the snowblower. From your suggestion seems like I could purchase a driveshaft section the right length (+ or minus a few inches?) that would simply replace one of the existing driveshafts. Is this correct? If yes where would I order such an item?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thx for suggestion. driveline is 3 piece, a driveshaft from rear differential to a rigid mounted coupler and then a 2nd driveshaft from the coupler to the snowblower. From your suggestion seems like I could purchase a driveshaft section the right length (+ or minus a few inches?) that would simply replace one of the existing driveshafts. Is this correct? If yes where would I order such an item?

A local farm store is easy, or you could order it online, get all the dimensions ( length is shortest to longest)
The exact size and type of the snowblower side yoke is the most critical.

 

[Michford]

What kind of debris is getting in your snowblower and jamming the impeller? Do you have a neighbor throwing junk in your driveway to mess with you? Do you have tree branches that keep coming down in the wind and hiding in the snow? Maybe a solution to deal with the debris is easier than reinventing your snowblower.

 

[kubotasam]

A local farm store is easy, or you could order it online, get all the dimensions ( length is shortest to longest)
The exact size and type of the snowblower side yoke is the most critical.

He is talking about a front mount snowblower. It uses the mid pto that has the smaller spline. That size shaft would not be available from a farm supply store.

 

[kubotasam]

once again I have to disassemble the internal drive mechanism on this snowblower due to an impeller jammed with debris. I'd like to add a torque limiting clutch or even a readily accessible drive line shear pin (probably cheaper) to make this much less of a hassle. I figured before I started designing something I'd ask here as it's entirely possible on something this old someone has already done it. thx to anyone taking the time to offer advice. mark in MN

I am not understanding what you mean by "disassemble the internal drive mechanism" . A b2650 snowblower is already protected by 3 shear pins, One on the impeller and one on each of the two augers,
You should not need to disassemble anything to replace these shearpins. If you are referring to the chain drive speed reduction on the back of the blower needing repair then either the chain and or sprockets need replacing or incorrect shear pins have been installed on the impeller and or augers.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

He is talking about a front mount snowblower. It uses the mid pto that has the smaller spline. That size shaft would not be available from a farm supply store.

AWWW thanks for the info!

 

[Vigo]

Im curious what is breaking here as well. If there are already shear bolts and they are NOT breaking and something else is, someone either unwisely ‘upgraded’ the shear bolts and moved the weakest link to a more expensive and difficult area, or the part that is failing at a force level that it SHOULD be surviving, because of some other root cause.

But assuming one had a round shaft, the easiest way to install a shear bolt would be to cut the shaft, find a strong enough sleeve/coupler whose inner diameter was a reasonably tight fit onto the existing shaft, drilling through-holes from the coupler to both shafts, and then putting a much stronger bolt/pin on one side than the other. COULD weld one side but that would be highly susceptible to bad technique and it might make certain shafts a LOT harder to remove if they have to ‘grow’ in length before they can come out and neither sode easily allows that.

 

[sheepfarmer]

If what you need to do is move the impeller by hand backwards to get a piece of debris loose, might work to remove its shear bolt temporarily while you clear the clog, then put it back. I have never dealt with the problem, knock on wood, but do obsess over picking up the branches where I snowblow.

 

[Orange1forme]

If what you need to do is move the impeller by hand backwards to get a piece of debris loose, might work to remove its shear bolt temporarily while you clear the clog, then put it back. I have never dealt with the problem, knock on wood, but do obsess over picking up the branches where I snowblow.

These drive shafts are easily accessible and can be disconnected to allow free/hand spinning of the impeller.

I have not had an issue that requires the need for this, so far. I would like to know the scenario that the OP has that requires this.