I have a 2019 B2301 with a BX2816 front mount snow blower attached to my mid-pto. I am wondering what rpm the tractor should be running at for best results. The tractors analog gauge does not have any markings to guide me. Thanks for the help.
BX2816 snow blower rpm question
- Thread starter Rob Dale
- Start date
Your tach will have a mark for 540 rpm pto speed.
This engine speed will produce the needed mid pto rpm.
The image from operators manual below.
Dave
I have found, depending on how cold and dry, or how heavy the snow is, dictates my RPM running speed. ( on my BX25D, 2750 front snowblower) I lower the RPM to 1600 or so, when engaging the PTO, bring it up to about 2600RPM or so, and see how the snow blows. Light fluffy snow throws easier, and at lower RPM. When the temps are a bit warmer, and the snow gets sticky and heavy, but still flys, I’ll raise the rpm a little, to clear the chute.
It’s almost trial and error, but if your engine is laboring, slow your forward progress a little. In very deep or heavy snow, I’ll use low 4x4, high gear in light and fluffy.
It’s almost trial and error, but if your engine is laboring, slow your forward progress a little. In very deep or heavy snow, I’ll use low 4x4, high gear in light and fluffy.
A snowblower with high moisture snow is the heaviest PTO load most people will put on their smaller tractors. I have midmount 6' and a rear 5' rough cut deck on my 33 horse Deere compact along with a tiller and other implements but the first time I used it with the snowblower to move heavy wet snow was the first time I saw it sending some glowing bits of carbon out of its exhaust system 
Unless you are dealing with very lightweight snow, engage the PTO at near idle with it out of the snow and then run the engine at rated PTO speed. The engine is much happier under load running at its rated PTO RPM which is usually at or very close to its peak HP RPM instead of laboring at lower RPM. Just engage and disengage at low RPM under no load; if your PTO has a safety brake on it then disengagement RPM is just as important as engagement RPM to avoid PTO/implement driveline stress.
Rodger
Unless you are dealing with very lightweight snow, engage the PTO at near idle with it out of the snow and then run the engine at rated PTO speed. The engine is much happier under load running at its rated PTO RPM which is usually at or very close to its peak HP RPM instead of laboring at lower RPM. Just engage and disengage at low RPM under no load; if your PTO has a safety brake on it then disengagement RPM is just as important as engagement RPM to avoid PTO/implement driveline stress.
Rodger
The sweet spot on my BX 2370 with a front mount [Airens] blower is anywhere 2200 -2400 rpm. seems to be the best spot.
I have always run my snowblowers at wide open throttle, and have had the least amount of issues for almost 20 years. That is what I was told to do in 2003 when I bought my BX22, and I continue to do it with my BX23S. Diesel engines don't do well when you cause them to lug along at lower RPMs.
jkrubi12
Well-known member
Equipment
B2601/LA435/QA54"/BH70/B8160box/BB1254/PFL1242/SGC0554/WC-68 Chipper
@DustyRusty, with your 20+ years of BX snowblower experience can I hear your recommendation for a very nice used BX/front snowblower combination including: a) BX model/yr; b) blower model/generation; and c) jump-at price? I'm dipping my toes into that market, TIA
Thank you for your advice. I only have 30 hours on it so far so I am holding back a little on going full open until 50 hours. Do you agree with that?
This is always somewhat of a trick question. Back in the 1960s with a new car, after you had about 500 miles on the engine, if you wanted a fast car, then you drove it hard and fast and it turned out to be quite true.
With a diesel, it is difficult to say if driving it hard and fast is a good thing to do when they are relatively new, and all my diesel cars were used when I bought them, so I have no way of knowing how they were broken in. On my BX22 purchased new, I had about 30 hours on it when I had to start blowing snow, and at that time the dealer said to open it up. I figured that it was under warranty, so I followed his advice and pushed it to the limit, and never had a problem. I sold it at 800 hours and as far as I know, it is still going strong. I am the type of person that takes responsibility for my actions, but I don't want to take responsibility for other actions based on what I do, so I say to those people, do what you feel comfortable with on your tractor.
I believe running your tractor up and down the power range is the best thing for it, not just idling, and not lugging it under load. Set it free to run hard when working it hard. It operates better with power, not not needing power.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
When posters here say WOT (Wide Open Throttle) what are you saying?
1 - you push the throttle lever ALL THE WAY (Wide Open) to the max physical stop on the lever, whatever the top RPM ends up being?
or
2 - you adjust the throttle lever open until the tach indicates close to the tractor's RATED RPM, which is 2500rpm on mine?
Because I NEVER adjust the throttle lever WIDE OPEN on my machine, as it over-revs the engine quite a bit past 2500 rpm. I don't think that's good for these engines.
Instead of WOT I would say adjust throttle to OPERATING RPM for your machine.
Just saying Wide Open Throttle is lazy, IMO. It couldbe taken to mean actual WOT not open Throtle to Operating RPM.
Thoughts?
How do others here interpret the term WOT?
1 - you push the throttle lever ALL THE WAY (Wide Open) to the max physical stop on the lever, whatever the top RPM ends up being?
or
2 - you adjust the throttle lever open until the tach indicates close to the tractor's RATED RPM, which is 2500rpm on mine?
Because I NEVER adjust the throttle lever WIDE OPEN on my machine, as it over-revs the engine quite a bit past 2500 rpm. I don't think that's good for these engines.
Instead of WOT I would say adjust throttle to OPERATING RPM for your machine.
Just saying Wide Open Throttle is lazy, IMO. It couldbe taken to mean actual WOT not open Throtle to Operating RPM.
Thoughts?
How do others here interpret the term WOT?
jkrubi12
Well-known member
Equipment
B2601/LA435/QA54"/BH70/B8160box/BB1254/PFL1242/SGC0554/WC-68 Chipper
WOT = Wide open throttle, and that is governed by the factory setting of the throttle. Assuming that is 3000 RPM when you start pushing snow through the blower, it might drop down to 2400 RPM or a loss of 600 RPM. If you start off at 2500 RPM and when you start pushing the snow through the blower it drops the 600 RPM which means that the engine is turning at 1900 RPM, 600 RPM below the recommended setting for the snow blower. Keep in mind that the faster the snowblower turns, the faster it can clear the fan and chute which means more snow off of the driveway in less time without harming the engine by lugging it. Feel free to use whatever RPMs that you choose, and I will do the same. Been doing it this way for almost 20 years, and no ill effects on the snowblower or the tractor. The only thing that will change, is if your snowblower ingests something that it can't handle such as a large rock or newspaper, it may break the fan shear pin along with the auger shear pin.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
I adjust to 2500 (rated) mid-pto and snowblower rpm with tractor and blower warmed up a few minutes and no load on the blower, just at a stop. Then under the heaviest blower load I rarely drop to under 2350 rpm, a drop of only 150rpm, before it feels like it's going to start lugging and I back off slightly.
So with my machine, starting with blower engaged at stop and 2500 mid-pto rpm (not wot) I can push steady through a foot or 2 of snow at around 2350-2400 rpm.
That's way less rpm drop than you're describing, from wot that is.
These engines are often used to power generators. To produce 60 cycle power the engine needs to run at 3,600 rpm.
Dave