L2501 temp question - first time diesel owner

[TheOldHokie]

I think your tractor engine would like to run warmer than that!

I think I would like to know what temperature that actually indicates and if that is actually the highest it gets with extended use before making any judgements.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

The rad fan runs with the engine speed so it'll cool the coolant off pretty quick. Lower hose was probably cold. But the top hose should always be hot. So your engine had some heat in it. That's good. It just takes more load to get the temps up when it's cold out.

Yes but even an an idling engine with a blocked radiator will overheat on a frigid day.

Dan

 

[fried1765]

I think I would like to know what temperature that actually indicates and if that is actually the highest it gets with extended use before making any judgements.

Dan

If that is the highest reading with "extended use" it would seem that either a new temperature sending probe, or a new gauge with proper temperature range markings might be in order.
INHO the normal operating range of any temperature gauge reading should be somewhere above the middle of the gauge markings.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I

If that is the highest reading with "extended use" it would seem that either a new temperature sending probe, or a new gauge with proper temperature range markings might be in order.
INHO the normal operating range of any temperature gauge reading should be somewhere above the middle of the gauge markings.

Not to quibble but I would say say anywhere near the middle. My L3901 settles in just below middle all year round.

But that is not my concern. What I was hinting at is we need to know if the gauge is "off" or is the engine actually running cold?

Dan

 

[fried1765]

I


Not to quibble but I would say say anywhere near the middle. My L3901 settles in just below middle all year round.

But that is not my concern. What I was hinting at is we need to know if the gauge is "off" or is the engine actually running cold?

Dan

Agreed!

 

[The Evil Twin]

Yes but even an an idling engine with a blocked radiator will overheat on a frigid day.

Dan

Blocked, yes. But I only recommend restricting the flow.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Most analog gauges sit in one spot over a wide range of temperatures. For instance, the last 3 trucks I've had pointed to the middle of the temp range as long as the actual temp was in the normal operating range. Idling in the frigid snow at 175° or pulling up a mountain pass at 230° the analog gauge never moved.
For $50 one could get an Auto Meter digital gauge. Probably even use the OEM sensor. I think it's a thermistor. Even if not, you could thread the correct one in. Or just strap a meat thermometer to the top hose and insulate it some.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Blocked, yes. But I only recommend restricting the flow.

My point is it will warm up as long as the thermostat remains closed until the proper coolant temperature is reached.

Many modern automotive "gauges" are just idiot lights in disguise. They are not truly analog - they have three positions - off, normal, and alarm. The OEM oil pressure "gauge" on my Ram 1500 is a perfect example - utterly worthless for anything more than a backup for the warning light. Based on a year+ of observation I can say the temperature gauge on my L3901 is truly analog.

If the OP is worried about his "low" gauge reading he needs to get a real calibrated gauge of some sort and an actual measurement of coolant temperature. Given the picture he provided I personally would not be worried.

Dan

 

[The Evil Twin]

My point is it will warm up as long as the thermostat remains closed until the proper coolant temperature is reached.

Many modern automotive "gauges" are just idiot lights in disguise. They are not truly analog - they have three positions - off, normal, and alarm. The OEM oil pressure "gauge" on my Ram 1500 is a perfect example - utterly worthless for anything more than a backup for the warning light. Based on a year+ of observation I can say the temperature gauge on my L3901 is truly analog.

If the OP is worried about his "low" gauge reading he needs to get a real calibrated gauge of some sort and an actual measurement of coolant temperature. Given the picture he provided I personally would not be worried.

Dan

While I'll agree about the gauges, as I posted in #27, not so much on reaching operating temp. Warm up? Yes. But whats warm? 150, 175? With a fan that spins all the time it very well could run cold. Even with the Stat closed.
Oil temp is really what we should be concerned with anyway. That's what cools the hottest parts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

While I'll agree about the gauges, as I posted in #27, not so much on reaching operating temp. Warm up? Yes. But whats warm? 150, 175? With a fan that spins all the time it very well could run cold. Even with the Stat closed.
Oil temp is really what we should be concerned with anyway. That's what cools the hottest parts.

Does not match my experience and we definitely have a difference of opinion. I have overheated more than once from a frozen radiator. Really cold outside, the fan spinning as usual, and it did not take long for the cap to blow. Thawing a frozen radiator on the side of the road is not easy or fun.

Dan

 

[Trustable]

Hey all, so I’m not home currently so I cannot test it further this weekend most likely. But for clarification this was the temp about 4 minutes after pulled into garage with tractor on. Tractor is stored in uninsulated garage that pretty much is same temp as outside. I think when i think hard work for the tractor it is possible it’s not working that hard as I had it over summer Or how hard it’s meant to be worked. Needle almost sits below c when I first start it and gradually climbs. area around engine was hot and nothing was cold to touch except radiator cap. I did not feel lower rad hose. As I said it worked perfectly fine with no perceived strain or any different smell. Based on what I’ve heard on here combined with other places online it seems that anywhere in the white area is normal while below is cold and red is hot. I may end up getting some kind of digital gauge depending on others replies. But all said, it seems I have nothing to worry about. hopefully most agree or if not I got to figure something out.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Does not match my experience and we definitely have a difference of opinion. I have overheated more than once from a frozen radiator. Really cold outside, the fan spinning as usual, and it did not take long for the cap to blow. Thawing a frozen radiator on the side of the road is not easy or fun.

Dan

If the rad was frozen then there is a different issue (improper coolant mix, ice blockage [seen that plowing], failing water pump). That will pop the cap because the coolant in the engine boils.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If the rad was frozen then there is a different issue (improper coolant mix, ice blockage [seen that plowing], failing water pump). That will pop the cap because the coolant in the engine boils.

Indeed..

The coolant boils because it can not circulate. Same thing as when a thermostat does not open. If the thermostat does not open the coolant cannot circulate and the engine will overheat.

Dan