Grand L 4060 HSTC initial review
- Thread starter troverman
- Start date
Hey countryx, I have used this machine to plow snow quite a bit. I'd say the best thing is the enclosed cab which keeps you both warm and out of the wind and snow. Wipers work fine in this application to keep the snow clear. Warm-up times are long, and Kubota recommends long warm up times mostly for the transmission. I set the hand idle to about 1500 RPMs to help speed the warmup, which is a big improvement over idle. The tractor pushes and drags snow very well, plenty of weight and traction.
The rear window electric defroster (which I don't have) would be a nice addition.
I have done some lighting upgrades...replaced the front work light halogen bulbs with HID bulbs and tucked the ballasts up in the roof. I also added Baja Designs small cube lights mounted on the same location as the front parking lights. We got 43" of snow on December 17th, and I used the tractor for hours, running all lights, four-way flashers, heater on position 3, radio, and occasional wipers. The next day the tractor wouldn't start...dead battery. Apparently running everything at once, along with my two extra cube lights, drew more amps than the alternator could produce.
Last point is once again, the HST+ is amazing. Auto-throttle mode works perfectly for plowing. Still loving this great machine, probably around 300 hours now.
Troverman, I had a block heater to my tractor to help warm up. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the engine and ready to run from the start.
I've thought about it, but I've never had one on a tractor. It always starts, and I am running full synthetic Rotella T6 in it. My pickup truck gets plugged in when the temps drop to near zero or lower at night, but that is something I use every day. The tractor, in the winter, pretty much only gets used when it snows.
In the spring, I'll be doing a complete go-over on the machine. Engine oil and filter, inspect air filter, hydraulic levels, complete wash and wax, clean interior, etc.
In the spring, I'll be doing a complete go-over on the machine. Engine oil and filter, inspect air filter, hydraulic levels, complete wash and wax, clean interior, etc.
Glad to hear that you are happy with the features and power of your L4060 for snow removal. I am still waiting for delivery of my 4060HSTC-LE which is expected sometime in April. Had been on the fence between the 3560 and the 4060, but decided that with a snow blower the extra power would be helpful. I purchased the L4479 72" utility front mount blower, set of rear hydraulics, 3rd function kit for some front mounted goodies (future grapple or blower chute deflection) and rear defroster with wiper that upgrades the alternator to higher output. Have been looking at increasing lighting output by using LED replacements for the stock incandescent bulbs. I am having fun researching and learning, while I wait for my new machine to arrive. I am in northern NY and was looking for a solid snow removal machine! Appreciate you sharing your experience.
Sounds like an awesome machine. In my opinion, the 4060 is worth it for 4-cylinder power vs 3-cylinder. The 4 cylinder is smoother and makes more torque; its actually the same engine used all the way through the L6060, just without the turbocharger the more powerful models employ.
With the LE you are getting, you could easily add a couple of LED lights in the empty factory location of the normal worklights. I would recommend spending the extra for high quality units like Rigid or BajaDesigns; they will be brighter and last longer in harsh conditions.
I wish I had the high capacity alternator.
What is the LE missing besides the front worklights? If I recall from when I looked at the 3560LE, it is missing the right-side step, cruise control button, and 12v outlet in the cab? I think this stuff can be added back in pretty easily.
With the LE you are getting, you could easily add a couple of LED lights in the empty factory location of the normal worklights. I would recommend spending the extra for high quality units like Rigid or BajaDesigns; they will be brighter and last longer in harsh conditions.
I wish I had the high capacity alternator.
What is the LE missing besides the front worklights? If I recall from when I looked at the 3560LE, it is missing the right-side step, cruise control button, and 12v outlet in the cab? I think this stuff can be added back in pretty easily.
The Limited Edition L3560/4060 models omit: cruise control switch, 12v accessory port, pto safety stationary seat switch, R/L side rear view mirrors, right hand side grab handle and step, front facing 2 cab mounted work lights. Messick's put out a nice video going through the differences: https://www.messicks.com/school/kubota-l3560-limited-edition-cab-tractor . But of course you can add back all or as many of these as you might want by going to the parts counter. I plan to add back everything and when I tallied up the cost it saved me ~$1,500 by going this route and I don't think any of these items would be that hard to install and fun to do.
Isn't the grab handle welded to the pillar? Not impossible for sure, but not bolt-on. Does the 12v require a whole new plastic tray piece or is there a pop-out for it? I actually use my 12v plug.
The mirrors are definitely worth it. Useless at night, but very useful during the daytime.
The mirrors are definitely worth it. Useless at night, but very useful during the daytime.
Hello. I could be wrong as I still haven't taken delivery of my machine yet so I am working only from parts diagrams, what others have written in forums and the Messicks video I previously referenced. But the grab handle has a part number along with two pan head screws listed (3G710-71110 & 03034-50620) same part number applies to L and R side, so expect this to be bolt on. The 12v socket (RC418-53450) should just pop into the existing tray once the pre-molded hole is opened up (remove pop-out or dremel the molded hole?). All the wiring that supports the cruise control switch, 12v and seat pto switch are all present as confirmed by others before me. The mirrors should bolt right up as the brackets are present from factory. Already arranged as part of the original purchase with my dealer to install the forward facing cab work lights which they are doing for the cost of parts only, the wiring is already present, the lights just need to be bolted on and plugged in. In the Messick's video they really did describe the Limited Editions as just a marketing tactic to reduce the price a little to fill a product line gap they had between the sub-compact L3300 and the larger L60 compact series tractors. The math in this case works in the favor of the buyer I think, MSRP goes down by $2.5K for the LE's, and price of omitted parts goes up by $1K. So for the inconvenience of tinkering with the machine, it saves a little money which can be spent elsewhere. With the extra savings, I had the dealer add one set of cab controlled rear remotes (not standard which surprised me) and a 3rd function control for the front. Dealer is also installing the rear view mirrors at no additional cost for labor only for the cost of parts, so I went for it. This is probably going to be my first and last tractor!
I looked at mine again. The tab for the grab handle is welded to the pillar, but the handle screws into the tab. With the vinyl covering, it looks like it is one piece, but you are correct.
Sounds good! When I bought mine, only the 3560 LE was available. If the 4060 had been offered LE, I would have done the same thing as I enjoy tinkering. I've had the roof off my regular 4060 multiple times (installed a nice outside temp display, plus ballasts for the HID bulbs I installed in the front work lights). these are very nice tractors.
Sounds good! When I bought mine, only the 3560 LE was available. If the 4060 had been offered LE, I would have done the same thing as I enjoy tinkering. I've had the roof off my regular 4060 multiple times (installed a nice outside temp display, plus ballasts for the HID bulbs I installed in the front work lights). these are very nice tractors.
Troverman, I really appreciated your review and comments about your L4060 HSTC. I am making my final decision to purchase the same tractor and have one concern regarding the stability (tippy) of the tractor on slopes. I read where you set the tire width out to max and added a two inch spacer. After making those changes and using for some time, I am interested in your input on how it did or did not improve the stability on slopes? I am also interested to know if you have the tires loaded with liquid ballast?
I would appreciate anyone’s input/comments on your experience with stability on slopes with the L4060HST or the L3560HSTC?
Information on my use and experience on using tractor on slopes:
I live in east Tennessee on about 15 acres. My property has an elevation change of a little over 100 feet from the boundary to the location of my house in the center of the property. Some areas are VERY steep. I have mowed and maintained the property for the last 17 years in the beginning with a Kubota B7510 and currently with a Kubota L3301. Over the years, I have learned several techniques to help with areas that are really challenging to mow safely. With that said, I want to upgrade to a cab tractor and my only holdup is my question about stability on my property with either a L4060HST or the L3560HSTC. If I purchase, I plan to set the tires at max width and have the tires loaded with liquid ballast.
Thanks in advance for your comments and input.
I would appreciate anyone’s input/comments on your experience with stability on slopes with the L4060HST or the L3560HSTC?
Information on my use and experience on using tractor on slopes:
I live in east Tennessee on about 15 acres. My property has an elevation change of a little over 100 feet from the boundary to the location of my house in the center of the property. Some areas are VERY steep. I have mowed and maintained the property for the last 17 years in the beginning with a Kubota B7510 and currently with a Kubota L3301. Over the years, I have learned several techniques to help with areas that are really challenging to mow safely. With that said, I want to upgrade to a cab tractor and my only holdup is my question about stability on my property with either a L4060HST or the L3560HSTC. If I purchase, I plan to set the tires at max width and have the tires loaded with liquid ballast.
Thanks in advance for your comments and input.
Bmyers
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
I have the L3560HSTC. I'm not in the hills of Tennessee, but we have some hills on the 80 acre farm. When I first got the tractor I was very nervous about the feel of it on the hills. This coming May will be three years with tractor and I have gotten much more comfortable with the tractor and learn how it feels. I use four wheel drive a lot (almost all the time) because we have very few flat spots.
My tires are loaded and I keep the loader low with the exception of when I'm stopped (got grab the picture) or placing material on the piles. Unfortunately, you can't tell slope on the pictures below, but the second picture is on top of the hill by the barn and then it slopes down to the creek (the brush is all gone now, the third picture). You can see in the fourth picture the level (sorry it is a little blurry). The tractor has handled the hills well. Again, you need to learn your equipment and how it balances and I can't emphasis enough that when you are on the hills, keep the loader low as possible.
So, the tractor has done well for me and I'm glad I have the cab. It is nice to have AC in the summer and the heat in the winter.
My tires are loaded and I keep the loader low with the exception of when I'm stopped (got grab the picture) or placing material on the piles. Unfortunately, you can't tell slope on the pictures below, but the second picture is on top of the hill by the barn and then it slopes down to the creek (the brush is all gone now, the third picture). You can see in the fourth picture the level (sorry it is a little blurry). The tractor has handled the hills well. Again, you need to learn your equipment and how it balances and I can't emphasis enough that when you are on the hills, keep the loader low as possible.
So, the tractor has done well for me and I'm glad I have the cab. It is nice to have AC in the summer and the heat in the winter.
@kdparker, here's my quick conclusion: with the R4 rims set to their widest position, the rear tires filled with RimGuard to 75%, and my 2" Bro-Tek spacers...this tractor is as stable as any of my other open-station Kubotas and I have total confidence in operating on steep slopes.
Like you, I've learned the areas that are very tricky (dangerous) and I'm extra careful and often modify the angle at which I mow these areas. I've also come to learn that removing the loader makes the tractor more stable on sidehills and going downhill, as well as backing up a hill. However, with no loader, driving up a hill makes the front end very light.
I'm using an offset flail mower which has different characteristics than a long rotary mower, even if weights are similar. It might be wiser to keep the loader on with a rotary mower. You can adjust the spring seat tension to a lower setting on a Grand L 60 tractor so that the seat bottoms out with you in it...this effectively lowers the center of gravity. Keep the fuel tank filled while on side slopes...the tank is below the floor on these tractors, even distributed on both sides. Helps lower the center of gravity. Always wear your seat belt on slopes, of course. Keep 4x4 engaged. If the tractor ever feels like it is going to roll over, rapidly turn downhill and accelerate once the wheel is turned downhill. It will likely prevent the rollover.
Like you, I've learned the areas that are very tricky (dangerous) and I'm extra careful and often modify the angle at which I mow these areas. I've also come to learn that removing the loader makes the tractor more stable on sidehills and going downhill, as well as backing up a hill. However, with no loader, driving up a hill makes the front end very light.
I'm using an offset flail mower which has different characteristics than a long rotary mower, even if weights are similar. It might be wiser to keep the loader on with a rotary mower. You can adjust the spring seat tension to a lower setting on a Grand L 60 tractor so that the seat bottoms out with you in it...this effectively lowers the center of gravity. Keep the fuel tank filled while on side slopes...the tank is below the floor on these tractors, even distributed on both sides. Helps lower the center of gravity. Always wear your seat belt on slopes, of course. Keep 4x4 engaged. If the tractor ever feels like it is going to roll over, rapidly turn downhill and accelerate once the wheel is turned downhill. It will likely prevent the rollover.
One more general update on my machine, with another summer of mowing behind me:
The tractor has been totally reliable. The radiator cores can get clogged up and cleaning them is more difficult on this tractor. In the field, I try to find a thicker grass stalk which is soft enough to not damage the radiator fins but will clean the chaff off the main radiator behind the A/C condenser. The A/C will get warm as its condenser gets plugged. The cores should be cleaned fairly routinely. Although harder to clean, this machine does seem to get clogged less easily then my other non-cab Kubotas.
The message center keeps track of your maintenance items...you can scroll through the list and see how many hours since the service has been performed, assuming you reset each item in the system as the service is complete. Nice feature for sure.
I notice as my tractor is fully warmed up, the power steering begins to fade, especially with rapid turns or steering after changing direction. Apparently this is a common problem with these tractors, possibly excepting the 3560 series machines as their hydraulics are a little different. There is another thread on this site located here in which an effective fix seems to be realized. I have not done it yet, but I plan to.
The tractor has been totally reliable. The radiator cores can get clogged up and cleaning them is more difficult on this tractor. In the field, I try to find a thicker grass stalk which is soft enough to not damage the radiator fins but will clean the chaff off the main radiator behind the A/C condenser. The A/C will get warm as its condenser gets plugged. The cores should be cleaned fairly routinely. Although harder to clean, this machine does seem to get clogged less easily then my other non-cab Kubotas.
The message center keeps track of your maintenance items...you can scroll through the list and see how many hours since the service has been performed, assuming you reset each item in the system as the service is complete. Nice feature for sure.
I notice as my tractor is fully warmed up, the power steering begins to fade, especially with rapid turns or steering after changing direction. Apparently this is a common problem with these tractors, possibly excepting the 3560 series machines as their hydraulics are a little different. There is another thread on this site located here in which an effective fix seems to be realized. I have not done it yet, but I plan to.
My deckover is the max legal limit of 102” wide, same as an 18 wheeler. Six in on each side would fit but with zero room to spare. I wouldn’t recommend that much spacer…lots of stress on the rear axle. 3” max per side would be my recommendation
Wow I had no idea it would be so tight.
What does the outside edge of your rear wheels measure?
I don't have a tape measure at the moment, but here is a shot of my MX6000 with 2" spacers and the R4 rims set to their widest, just to give you an idea of the width. Adding 8 more inches of width on top of that would be crazy. Maybe the MX is slightly wider than the L60 series, not sure. What would be your purpose of making it so wide? I mow on extremely steep slopes and this is the best, most stable setup I've ever had.