Paralysis by analysis - Buying decision needs wise input!

[WaltWestbrook]

Hello all.
New to the site, new to tractoring (I've run lots of different equipment, never owned it).
I've read for hours here and elsewhere on buying a Kubota and frankly, I"m worn out. Time to get wise counsel.
So if you've the time and an opinion, please weigh in.

First, my state of affairs-

• Family just purchased 120 acres of fallow farm (last farmed tomatoes and strawberries, only using 30 acres of creek bottom land, in 1988).
• Location is E TN, rural.
• The bottoms is sapling, bramble, some really large pines (48" diameter and up), and mixed hard and soft woods up to 18" diameter.
• Bottoms is very flat, with slight slope to the creek, which runs through the parcel, separating the bottoms from the hills (mountains?).
• The rest of the acreage is old, very large hardwood forest, on slope, with 3 hollows draining down into the creek.

PLAN (loosely..very loosely!)

1. Grade for an RV pad. This includes 800' of graveling the old driveway, removing a collapsed hay barn (huge), and grading and prepping for power and water hookup.
2. Clean up the bottoms. Remove brush, snags, open up the canopy, and general cleanup so we can see what we have.
3. Grade and prep an area for staging trailers and equipment. May install pole barn there pretty quickly.
4. Recover the bottoms for grazing asap, using electric fencing to get cows Manage Intensive Grazing asap.
5. Install a bridge / culvert over the creek. Span is 36', water depth is typically low (18") but storm runoff can cause flooding. Bank height to water is 7'.
6. Continue to build out infrastructure as time and money allow.
7. Keep my teen boys exhausted every day.
8. Eventually build a house (likely timbering from the woods).

Considerations for purchase

• Buy more power than I think I need now, based on many, many posts.
• Maneuverability
• Weight, to limit compacting and soil destruction
• Grapple lifting capability
• Cab / no cab
• Used (may go look at new but prefer to pay cash)
• Bush hog, box blade
• R4 tires (forest seems to have lots of puncture potential)

Where I am now (no purchase made yet)

The L series is appealing for size, but the M or Mx seems to give more bang for buck (guessing demand is stronger for L series).
The L4701 looks good, but folks said the bump in HP to the Mx was a better deal all around.
Backhoe and midframe attachment looks really good but frankly I'd likely just rent a mini-excavator for the backhoe needs.
The 55-65 horsepower machines appear to meet much of my need.

So holler with your input, please. The scope of options, trying to solve current and future needs, is maddening. Thanks.

 

[jyoutz]

For your acreage and uses, the minimum size tractor I would advise is a MX, maybe even an M series. You will appreciate the better stability of these tractors over he L series for what you want to do. Cabs are nice, but not if you’re going to be working in the woods or around trees. That replacement glass isn’t cheap.

 

[mcmxi]

I'm not a tractor expert but I've owned and used the following tractors on my 20 acre property, and based on my experience I would absolutely suggest an M of some form depending on budget, and without any doubt I'd recommend a cab for all around comfort.

BX25D (sold after five years of ownership)
MX6000 open station (sold after one year of ownership to upgrade to a cab)
MX6000 cab (upgraded from the open station - still have)
M6060 cab (upgraded from the MX - still have)

For a property that size I would not recommend an MX. It's an excellent tractor but the M series is WAY more tractor, and if you go for an M7060 or M6060 you won't be paying much over the cost of an MX. If you have the budget I'd suggest an M5, but if not, an M7060 or M6060 would perform as well as an M4 but for less money.

I've said this a number of times, but as good and as useful as the MX is, the M6060 or M7060 is way more capable and just a better/bigger tractor.

 

[ve9aa]

I only own "baby tractors" so I won't advise, but simply welcome you Walt !

Good luck sir.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: #5 the bridge....

Maybe consider using a used/abused non roadworthy 48-53' flatdeck trailer. They are cheap here (free to haul away...) ,quick and easy to install and you can drive over them !
I've seen 3 or 4 done here over the past 4 decades. One guy did two (2nd trailer came upside down on the first..) THAT was a fun offload......40hp tractor ,no loader,just 1 guy......took about an hour.

 

[DaveFromMi]

FEL lift capacity would seem important
(quick internet search):
L-Series: 1200 lbs
L-4701: 1400 lbs
MX5400 & MX6000: 2310 lbs.
M6060 & 7060: 3307 lbs
How heavy is the stuff you need to lift?

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

The L series Kubota is my fav. go to machine and one I put most hours on.

That being said though based on what you describe, while an L33 or L39hp models could get the job done for you, I would go up to the 50 - 60hp size.

WRT cab., your mentioning of pine trees and kids makes me waffle on getting a cab or not would be a good idea. If not careful I know that combination of boys/pine trees can get very expensive very quickly. Glass is not cheap to replace. Of course 100% based on what level of care and attention your operators can give you 24/7.

Good luck... sounds like a wonderful project opportunity. And if you buy not enough power well good condition units always command very good prices.

 

[fried1765]

Hello all.
New to the site, new to tractoring (I've run lots of different equipment, never owned it).
I've read for hours here and elsewhere on buying a Kubota and frankly, I"m worn out. Time to get wise counsel.
So if you've the time and an opinion, please weigh in.

First, my state of affairs-

• Family just purchased 120 acres of fallow farm (last farmed tomatoes and strawberries, only using 30 acres of creek bottom land, in 1988).
• Location is E TN, rural.
• The bottoms is sapling, bramble, some really large pines (48" diameter and up), and mixed hard and soft woods up to 18" diameter.
• Bottoms is very flat, with slight slope to the creek, which runs through the parcel, separating the bottoms from the hills (mountains?).
• The rest of the acreage is old, very large hardwood forest, on slope, with 3 hollows draining down into the creek.

PLAN (loosely..very loosely!)

1. Grade for an RV pad. This includes 800' of graveling the old driveway, removing a collapsed hay barn (huge), and grading and prepping for power and water hookup.
2. Clean up the bottoms. Remove brush, snags, open up the canopy, and general cleanup so we can see what we have.
3. Grade and prep an area for staging trailers and equipment. May install pole barn there pretty quickly.
4. Recover the bottoms for grazing asap, using electric fencing to get cows Manage Intensive Grazing asap.
5. Install a bridge / culvert over the creek. Span is 36', water depth is typically low (18") but storm runoff can cause flooding. Bank height to water is 7'.
6. Continue to build out infrastructure as time and money allow.
7. Keep my teen boys exhausted every day.
8. Eventually build a house (likely timbering from the woods).

Considerations for purchase

• Buy more power than I think I need now, based on many, many posts.
• Maneuverability
• Weight, to limit compacting and soil destruction
• Grapple lifting capability
• Cab / no cab
• Used (may go look at new but prefer to pay cash)
• Bush hog, box blade
• R4 tires (forest seems to have lots of puncture potential)

Where I am now (no purchase made yet)

The L series is appealing for size, but the M or Mx seems to give more bang for buck (guessing demand is stronger for L series).
The L4701 looks good, but folks said the bump in HP to the Mx was a better deal all around.
Backhoe and midframe attachment looks really good but frankly I'd likely just rent a mini-excavator for the backhoe needs.
The 55-65 horsepower machines appear to meet much of my need.

So holler with your input, please. The scope of options, trying to solve current and future needs, is maddening. Thanks.

A Tractor?
Something like my 2006 L48 TLB (48HP) could work for you, (L47 TLB equivalent now), but .......
Seems like most of your described wants/needs might be better performed with a compact tracked loader (CTL).

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Welcome. It’s like you have a lot of fun time in the seat ahead of you.

just my thoughts here…you have a lot of ranging tasks from your description…I wonder is one machine enough honestly. Do you have others already? If so maybe some of this no matter so much…I’d sort of be thinking what size is ideal for the different tasks and then can you really do efficiently with one machine? And when thinking about loader capability how much you really want to lift? I guess I wonder in some case is a track or wheel loader in combination with a tractor appropriate? There is a lot of work (I think you are going to need weight/traction)there you mentioned before it gets to maintenance so I wonder can you do all that with a single machine?

Sort of depends on how much capability you want I guess. Anyway I’d be thinking about lining up those different levels of capability and trying to see overlaps / gaps between machines, the amount of loader capability you want and then think about what size implements or attachments you want to run…and then consider again about what machine(s).

Property that size you could very well decide need something smaller for landscape maintenance / small scale construction like a TLB some larger for more work capability farm wise and maybe even more? There is nothing wrong with a more than one. Having a pair and spare for tractors and firearms is always a good plan IMO.

Personally I’d be thinking about a track loader and a tractor for the farming needs. If you plan to play in the garden/fields (tillage?)that is one farming need, if playing with livestock (hauling water tanks or round bales) that is another, and if playing in the woods (hauling logs or much undergrowth)or cleaning up that could be something different. I think all depends on your expectations in how efficiently to complete the work .

 

[nota4re]

FEL lift capacity would seem important
(quick internet search):
L-Series: 1200 lbs
L-4701: 1400 lbs
MX5400 & MX6000: 2310 lbs.
M6060 & 7060: 3307 lbs
How heavy is the stuff you need to lift?

I think lifting capacity is not to be underestimated/valued. Before owning and using a tractor, I thought about lifting capacity almost solely in terms of how much I would want to lift/carry and this thinking may not have placed enough importance on this specification. I'm in the process of building our home/shop and I have had a need to move piles of dirt/sand/rock around at different times. The technique to do this is to have the bucket level, proceed slowly toward the pile to be "scooped", place the bucket against the ground and push in with the drive wheels while lifting/curling. The ratio of lift versus curl can be perfected in short order depending on what you are scooping, traction, etc..... but maybe this is a different thread. The point I'm (trying) to make is that there is a lift/curl component here as you strive to get a nice full bucket of material. Lifting capacity plays a BIG role in this scenario. Often times you can push in to the pile but the lifting capacity is simply not there to lift/curl. If you have a lower lift capacity, this task will end up taking you longer because you can't push forward and scoop and in some cases, you will even have to back-up a bit before you have the ability to lift the bucket. This can become frustrating.

I also agree with rc51stierhoff in that you may also want to consider (gulp) more than one machine. Our tasks/needs are likely different but in my situation I ended up purchasing a nice, well taken care of Case580M backhoe as my first tractor. I removed so many large, overgrown bushes, trees, root balls, etc and then dug may trenches for water lines power lines, drainage, etc. I never envisioned keeping the Case that long but I'm just not sure I can sell it now. It's just a beast that has been 100% reliable. And yes, when I have to move a lot of dirt/rock quickly (and if it's not 100F outside), this is the go-to machine. My newer tractor to complement the case (because I can have attachments!!) is a larger compact with a cab. I really debated spending more on the cab model but I absolutely LOVE it. Stereo, AC, NO DUST, is just great when you are "working".

 

[Elliott in GA]

As others have noted, some of your tasks are beyond any tractor unless you want to spend months/years trying to get the work done.

Hire the clearing, barn removal, bridge work and maybe the grading out to pros with track loaders and excavators. These are one time tasks, and you will have limited use for the equipment in the future. A track loader with a forestry mulcher (disc for speed or drum for a finer finish) costs about $100K. Some will say you can buy used, and then you can sell it later for almost the same price. I think that is a lot of trouble and risk; you can certainly extensively damage this type of equipment in mere moments - especially if you are not experienced or just unlucky.

You will absolutely have plenty of work to do with your MX or M tractor after the pros are done, and it will be much more enjoyable to be making good progress towards your remaining goals versus grinding out tiny amounts of progress with just a tractor (or spending huge sums of money to buy the proper equipment).

 

[PaulL]

I think I agree with Elliott.

Hire out the big work to get started. It gets you into the property and functional quickly, and it changes what sort of machine you need if that work is done. It's also work that a pro will do quickly, and you (and your boys) would do slowly.

Conversely (as always), if the aim is to keep yourself and your boys busy, then actually doing it slow is a benefit not a problem. In a world where you want to be able to look at it and say "I did that", then I think an M or MX class machine would be ample. Rent an excavator so that you've got two boys toys whilst doing the big work. You can absolutely fell and clear land with a chainsaw, a tractor and a brush hog, depending on how much time and effort you want to put in. Probably literally a month of Sundays (if you're working only on the weekends that turns into a bit over half of a year - 30 Sundays). And maybe a bit more as well. But if you enjoy that kind of work, it's a lot of fun.

So, ask yourself the question as to what your priority is. If the priority is to get the farm functional - get the cattle on it, get the pole barn in, get the RV park so you have somewhere to sleep, then hire out a bunch of work to get started. If the priority is to feel that you personally cleared it, then buy the tractor and get started.

(My 10c is that you'll have plenty of work left even after the pros leave, so I'd hire out the heavy work and still feel like I mostly did it myself)

 

[WaltWestbrook]

For your acreage and uses, the minimum size tractor I would advise is a MX, maybe even an M series. You will appreciate the better stability of these tractors over he L series for what you want to do. Cabs are nice, but not if you’re going to be working in the woods or around trees. That replacement glass isn’t cheap.

Thanks Jyoutz, I'm leaning that way!

 

[WaltWestbrook]

I've said this a number of times, but as good and as useful as the MX is, the M6060 or M7060 is way more capable and just a better/bigger tractor.

MCMXI, this is fantastic guidance (yes, confirming my bias I guess). Thanks.

 

[WaltWestbrook]

... with a compact tracked loader (CTL).

Fried, I'm getting some quotes on those with a straight bucket and a grapple. Just to rent to get the RV work done asap. I'm trying to weigh a tractor won't do it all perfectly, but I'm after broad utility over speed.
Thanks for the input!

 

[jyoutz]

MCMXI, this is fantastic guidance (yes, confirming my bias I guess). Thanks.

Thanks Jyoutz, I'm leaning that way!

I would like a cab but didn’t choose one because I often work in wooded areas of my land. I don’t think the cab glass would last too long. If that’s not an issue for you, go for the cab, otherwise open station with a steel canopy is probably the wisest choice.

 

[JerryMT]

Hello all.
New to the site, new to tractoring (I've run lots of different equipment, never owned it).
I've read for hours here and elsewhere on buying a Kubota and frankly, I"m worn out. Time to get wise counsel.
So if you've the time and an opinion, please weigh in.

First, my state of affairs-

• Family just purchased 120 acres of fallow farm (last farmed tomatoes and strawberries, only using 30 acres of creek bottom land, in 1988).
• Location is E TN, rural.
• The bottoms is sapling, bramble, some really large pines (48" diameter and up), and mixed hard and soft woods up to 18" diameter.
• Bottoms is very flat, with slight slope to the creek, which runs through the parcel, separating the bottoms from the hills (mountains?).
• The rest of the acreage is old, very large hardwood forest, on slope, with 3 hollows draining down into the creek.

PLAN (loosely..very loosely!)

1. Grade for an RV pad. This includes 800' of graveling the old driveway, removing a collapsed hay barn (huge), and grading and prepping for power and water hookup.
2. Clean up the bottoms. Remove brush, snags, open up the canopy, and general cleanup so we can see what we have.
3. Grade and prep an area for staging trailers and equipment. May install pole barn there pretty quickly.
4. Recover the bottoms for grazing asap, using electric fencing to get cows Manage Intensive Grazing asap.
5. Install a bridge / culvert over the creek. Span is 36', water depth is typically low (18") but storm runoff can cause flooding. Bank height to water is 7'.
6. Continue to build out infrastructure as time and money allow.
7. Keep my teen boys exhausted every day.
8. Eventually build a house (likely timbering from the woods).

Considerations for purchase

• Buy more power than I think I need now, based on many, many posts.
• Maneuverability
• Weight, to limit compacting and soil destruction
• Grapple lifting capability
• Cab / no cab
• Used (may go look at new but prefer to pay cash)
• Bush hog, box blade
• R4 tires (forest seems to have lots of puncture potential)

Where I am now (no purchase made yet)

The L series is appealing for size, but the M or Mx seems to give more bang for buck (guessing demand is stronger for L series).
The L4701 looks good, but folks said the bump in HP to the Mx was a better deal all around.
Backhoe and midframe attachment looks really good but frankly I'd likely just rent a mini-excavator for the backhoe needs.
The 55-65 horsepower machines appear to meet much of my need.

So holler with your input, please. The scope of options, trying to solve current and future needs, is maddening. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum.

Your #2 requirement to clean up the bottoms is best done with a crawler machine not a rubber tire machine. Tractors are not meant for that kind of work (especially a tractor with a cab) and you have some big trees there. Some might suggest a track hoe also but my experience says you want a small cat. Maybe it would be wise to rent one or hire out that work.

Get a utility tractor to do the farm work (plowing, disking haying, feeding livestock, clearing snow, etc ). If you are going to hay what size bales will you use? If it's small squares and it not too hilly 50-60HP will do you especially if you have some strapping teenagers to buck bales. If you are going to big round bales you'll need a bigger machine ~80 HP at the pto.

Been there and done that including the managed intensive grazing.

You'll get a lot of opinions on this site because we all have different life experiences. You job will be to sort out what works for you

 

[Mountainhill]

Hello all.
New to the site, new to tractoring (I've run lots of different equipment, never owned it).
I've read for hours here and elsewhere on buying a Kubota and frankly, I"m worn out. Time to get wise counsel.
So if you've the time and an opinion, please weigh in.

First, my state of affairs-

• Family just purchased 120 acres of fallow farm (last farmed tomatoes and strawberries, only using 30 acres of creek bottom land, in 1988).
• Location is E TN, rural.
• The bottoms is sapling, bramble, some really large pines (48" diameter and up), and mixed hard and soft woods up to 18" diameter.
• Bottoms is very flat, with slight slope to the creek, which runs through the parcel, separating the bottoms from the hills (mountains?).
• The rest of the acreage is old, very large hardwood forest, on slope, with 3 hollows draining down into the creek.

PLAN (loosely..very loosely!)

1. Grade for an RV pad. This includes 800' of graveling the old driveway, removing a collapsed hay barn (huge), and grading and prepping for power and water hookup.
2. Clean up the bottoms. Remove brush, snags, open up the canopy, and general cleanup so we can see what we have.
3. Grade and prep an area for staging trailers and equipment. May install pole barn there pretty quickly.
4. Recover the bottoms for grazing asap, using electric fencing to get cows Manage Intensive Grazing asap.
5. Install a bridge / culvert over the creek. Span is 36', water depth is typically low (18") but storm runoff can cause flooding. Bank height to water is 7'.
6. Continue to build out infrastructure as time and money allow.
7. Keep my teen boys exhausted every day.
8. Eventually build a house (likely timbering from the woods).

Considerations for purchase

• Buy more power than I think I need now, based on many, many posts.
• Maneuverability
• Weight, to limit compacting and soil destruction
• Grapple lifting capability
• Cab / no cab
• Used (may go look at new but prefer to pay cash)
• Bush hog, box blade
• R4 tires (forest seems to have lots of puncture potential)

Where I am now (no purchase made yet)

The L series is appealing for size, but the M or Mx seems to give more bang for buck (guessing demand is stronger for L series).
The L4701 looks good, but folks said the bump in HP to the Mx was a better deal all around.
Backhoe and midframe attachment looks really good but frankly I'd likely just rent a mini-excavator for the backhoe needs.
The 55-65 horsepower machines appear to meet much of my need.

So holler with your input, please. The scope of options, trying to solve current and futureKH n needs, is maddening. Thanks.

 

[Mountainhill]

Based on your requirements for farm, forestry and construction projects I’d go with a R-1 Ag. Tire. You get more ground clearance, they are mean to use with agriculture attachments on 3 point hitch, better traction, better on rough ground.

 

[WaltWestbrook]

re: #5 the bridge....

Maybe consider using a used/abused non roadworthy 48-53' flatdeck trailer. They are cheap here (free to haul away...) ,quick and easy to install and you can drive over them !
I've seen 3 or 4 done here over the past 4 decades. One guy did two (2nd trailer came upside down on the first..) THAT was a fun offload......40hp tractor ,no loader,just 1 guy......took about an hour.

This is a fantastic idea. I'll look into that! Thanks.