Mixing hydraulic oil

[Brazos]

I bought a Countyline 25 ton hydraulic log splitter. It came filled with fluids. Engine oil level was fine but the hydraulic oil is low and probably needs a gallon. It says it came prefilled with AW-32. Looking at the fluid temp range chart that came with the splitter AW-46 looks to be a better match for Texas. My thought was to top it off with AW-46. After researching it sounds like mixing fluids may be bad due to different additives between fluids. So I figured I should just get more AW-32. Then I got to thinking. How do I know what brand AW-32 they filled it with and what additives it has versus whatever AW-32 I wind up buying to top it off? That put my brain back on the idea of just topping off with AW-46 since it sounds like a guess no matter what I do. You guys are pretty smart on this stuff so I figured I would ask here Even though it’s not a Kubota product. I do own a Kubota though and this question could easily apply to tractors or anything with hydraulic fluid so felt it was appropriate for everyone’s general knowledge.

 

[i7win7]

I think it will be ok, just powering a cylinder. Something more complex like a hydro tranny, I'd want to use the correct fluid.

 

[Quick]

I don't sweat that stuff when it comes to a log splitter.

 

[NCL4701]

When I bought my chipper I was a bit confused on whether I should run the warm climate weight oil, cold climate oil, synthetic, whatever was on sale, etc. and was concerned enough to call Woodland Mills tech support. The nice gentleman discussed it with me patiently and finally said, “It’s just a 5 gallon sump on a simple pump running one simple hydraulic motor. Just put 5 gallons of some kind of hydraulic oil in it.” I think that applies here as well.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I bought a Countyline 25 ton hydraulic log splitter. It came filled with fluids. Engine oil level was fine but the hydraulic oil is low and probably needs a gallon. It says it came prefilled with AW-32. Looking at the fluid temp range chart that came with the splitter AW-46 looks to be a better match for Texas. My thought was to top it off with AW-46. After researching it sounds like mixing fluids may be bad due to different additives between fluids. So I figured I should just get more AW-32. Then I got to thinking. How do I know what brand AW-32 they filled it with and what additives it has versus whatever AW-32 I wind up buying to top it off? That put my brain back on the idea of just topping off with AW-46 since it sounds like a guess no matter what I do. You guys are pretty smart on this stuff so I figured I would ask here Even though it’s not a Kubota product. I do own a Kubota though and this question could easily apply to tractors or anything with hydraulic fluid so felt it was appropriate for everyone’s general knowledge.

Brand does not matter. Any AW hydraulic oil will be perfectly fine.

If you mix AW-32 with AW-46 you will simply get a viscosity somewhere in the middle. Personally I would stick with the grade specified in the manual.

Dan

 

[mcfarmall]

I get used hydraulic oil from work, changed out annually from a hydraulic unit that only runs about 25 hours per year. Works just fine in the log splitter and Farmall Touch Control system...and it's FREE!

 

[RalphVa]

My WM manual said either 32 or 46. Think I went with 46. Pour in less than what is recommended if you work on hills. Otherwise, excess will pour out underneath the cap.

I agree with TheOldHokie. Doubt there are many additives in hydraulic oil to worry about.

 

[Oil pan 4]

They use different bases but all the additives are generally the same.
46 is a mineral oil base, 32 is low temperature hydraulic, 32 may be a PAO base. But guess what, PAO and mineral blends have been around for at least 40 years.

 

[TheOldHokie]

They use different bases but all the additives are generally the same.
46 is a mineral oil base, 32 is low temperature hydraulic, 32 may be a PAO base. But guess what, PAO and mineral blends have been around for at least 40 years.

Most AW hydraulic oil is mineral regardless of grade. For those that dont know the AW denotes a beefed up anti-wear formulation. Synthetics are uncommon and expensive. SUDT2 is a decent AW32 hydraulic oil.

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Thanks for that explanation, Hokie…

I have a splitter which called for AW32 (or ASLE H-150 or ISO32) and that’s what I put in it (AW32 from O-Reillys). But during the first engine-oil-change I read the mfr’r recommended “Dexron III” transmission-fluid if used extensively in hot (70-degree F) climates.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for that explanation, Hokie…

I have a splitter which called for AW32 and that’s what I put in it (from O-Reillys). But during the first engine-oil-change I read the mfr’r recommended “Dexron III” transmission-fluid if used extensively in hot (70-degree F) climates.

Also an ISO 32 oil and a common OEM reccomendation for log splitters. Its also has a VI north of 140 effectivelyvmaking it a multigrade as opposed to conventional AW hydraulic oils that are monogrades.

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Sorry…I was just-editing my post to include alternate oils as you posted Hokie… Yes ISO 32 or ASLE H-150…. whatever that is.…

 

[jkrubi12]

Just assembled my own online-bought 22 ton log splitter, which was shipped 'dry'' (no oil in either engine or hydraulic system).

Spent some time researching hydraulic oils and decided to just go with Dexron III ATF in the hydro system and 10W-30 full synthetic in the 212cc engine. Dex3 was one of the recc'd fluids and works year-round regardless of ambient temp, but was slightly more $$$ than AW32. Read posts from lots of splitter owners praising Dex3 over AW32 or AW46, although admittedly the anti-wear oils would do just fine.

 

[Brazos]

Thanks for everyone’s input. Sounds like I am fine either way. I will probably just top it off with AW32 like what is in it. A 1/2 gallon or so of AW46 in a 4 gallon tank of AW32 isn’t really going to raise the vecosity level enough to make a difference.