Killing the battery instantly on starting

Nicksacco

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@Rob Maffit if you still have the cables and wouldn't mind splitting the insulation and taking some pictures, I'm sure the forum could use this as the "poster child" for bad cables!

I know I was shocked (no pun there) when I learned cables and wires can rot from the inside!
 
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GeoHorn

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@Rob Maffit if you still have the cables and wouldn't mind splitting the insulation and taking some pictures, I'm sure the forum could use this as the "poster child" for bad cables!

I know I was shocked (no pun there) when I learned cables and wires can rot from the inside!
That’s one of the main differences between automotive and marine or aviation wiring… the latter has each individual strands are “tinned” prior to assembly into a cable. This prevents such corrosion inside the sheath.
 
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Bugzilla46310

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2022 BX2680 198? AC 916H
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I always put nickel never seize on the terminals and grounds. Keeps the corrosion away. Big fan of soldering also.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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All electricians are required to use a similar product when using copper AND aluminum wiring in an installation.
 

Mark_BX25D

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Bx25D
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Hey!!! We now have a new "grease" to start debating. Dielectric Grease. I will not go down this rabbit hole with you all but will keep my knowledge and opinions to myself.


Go read the links I provided. NO-OX is a good product for its intended purpose, which is AC power systems. The base is every bit as much an insulator as dielectric grease, and the zinc powder does not make it conductive. It's there to prevent corrosion on aluminum connectors.

It's better than a dry connection (in some cases), but it's not the right product for automotive systems.
 

Pawnee

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L2501
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I think the problem is that it is called "Dielectric" grease. Since dielectrics are insulators.
Just a poorly chosen name for grease that preserves electrical connections.

I had something to do with 10,000A electroplating power supplies in a previous life and they always put grease on the bolted connection surfaces. I was told that it keeps corrosion to a minimum.
It certainly did not cause any resistance issues, at 10,000A resistance in the wrong place becomes obvious pretty quick.
 

Mark_BX25D

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Bx25D
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I think the problem is that it is called "Dielectric" grease. Since dielectrics are insulators.
Just a poorly chosen name for grease that preserves electrical connections.

It's not poorly chosen, just poorly understood. It IS an insulator. Any grease is, including the so-called, "conductive" greases that have copper or zinc powder in them.

Old-timers used to use plain old axle grease. Same principle. Once the contact is made, the grease is reduced to a film of a few microns thickness, and does not impeded the flow of electricity.


It certainly did not cause any resistance issues, at 10,000A resistance in the wrong place becomes obvious pretty quick.
Yeah, I think you'd get a nice KABOOM!
 

Joisey

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One of the best products to prevent battery post and battery terminal corrosion is Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/

While a can of the product isn't cheap, it lasts years and years. Clean terminals, assemble and then spray using the wand. Let dry, about 15 minutes and give it another spritz. The metal protector foams to an extent and then sucks into all the small crevices, sealing out moisture. It dries so it doesn't attract dust and dirt.

GM used a very similar product as an anti-rust inside door panels in the 70's and 80's. I don't recall what GM called it, but the appearance, behavior and smell is exactly the same.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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One of the best products to prevent battery post and battery terminal corrosion is Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/

While a can of the product isn't cheap, it lasts years and years. Clean terminals, assemble and then spray using the wand. Let dry, about 15 minutes and give it another spritz. The metal protector foams to an extent and then sucks into all the small crevices, sealing out moisture. It dries so it doesn't attract dust and dirt.

GM used a very similar product as an anti-rust inside door panels in the 70's and 80's. I don't recall what GM called it, but the appearance, behavior and smell is exactly the same.
LPS-3 has similar claimed specs., and has a Mil. spec. rating!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Lets all calm down, it's just info, no hacking and slashing needed. ;)