G5200

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

Mower randomly shut off during use, thought it ran out of diesel but now I'm not sure (can't remember if it was empty, yikes!). Went to bleed the system after adding more fuel but no diesel would flow when turning over. Got access to the fuel pump and its only giving 0.22V when starting. Jumped the pump to the battery when starting and it will flow to the bleed screw after the O/C vertical fuel filter but is only coming out of one injector after the pump. Bad injector pump?? Will address the low voltage after confirming the cylinders are getting fuel. Anyone have any ideas? Easy to take the injector pump off and clean?

Can add any requested images.

 

[Dave_eng]

Mower randomly shut off during use, thought it ran out of diesel but now I'm not sure (can't remember if it was empty, yikes!). Went to bleed the system after adding more fuel but no diesel would flow when turning over. Got access to the fuel pump and its only giving 0.22V when starting. Jumped the pump to the battery when starting and it will flow to the bleed screw after the O/C vertical fuel filter but is only coming out of one injector after the pump. Bad injector pump?? Will address the low voltage after confirming the cylinders are getting fuel. Anyone have any ideas? Easy to take the injector pump off and clean?

Can add any requested images.

Leave the injection pump alone. You will make a small problem into a much bigger one.
Is it possible a safety system was shutting down the tractor?
Are you following the bleeding procedure in the Operators' manual?
It does not sound like it!
Describe how you are measuring fuel pump voltage. Where is each probe of your multi meter.
If one probe is not on the battery ground then the reading you are getting make sense.
Consider connecting a temporary fuel supply directly to the injection pump where gravity feeds the injection pump.
Have you been opening up fuel lines at the injectors? It is not necessary if you do the proper bleeding steps.
Do you have the throttle wide open when following the manual's bleeding instructions?
Dave

 

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

Dave,

I went one bleed screw further up the system than the manual states. Voltage is read from the pos. bullet con. back to the battery. I was bleeding from the connector on top of each injector but only the one closest to the steering wheel to have any flow. I will try the gravity fed system but I don't think I will be able to generate more pressure head than the inline pump. The throttle was wide open at all times.

With the fuel pump wired to the battery it seems like the engine wants to start, a few accelerated sputters, but then back to the normal turn over rhythm. Not sure how many safety switches there is on the unit.

 

[Dave_eng]

Dave,

I went one bleed screw further up the system than the manual states. Voltage is read from the pos. bullet con. back to the battery. I was bleeding from the connector on top of each injector but only the one closest to the steering wheel to have any flow. I will try the gravity fed system but I don't think I will be able to generate more pressure head than the inline pump. The throttle was wide open at all times.

With the fuel pump wired to the battery it seems like the engine wants to start, a few accelerated sputters, but then back to the normal turn over rhythm. Not sure how many safety switches there is on the unit.

You need to get the Operators' Manual for G3200 to 6200 machines. If you do not already have one.
It has a wiring diagram and from memory there are two safety switches.
manual
When I glanced at it after my post i realized the safety switches cannot stop the engine only prevent it from starting so my comment is wrong.
Whatever you do do NOT use Quick START! Fast way to bend connecting rods or break rings.
By not doing the factory bleeding procedure but rather one of your own mind, you may have introduced more air.
Wire the fuel pump to the battery and do the proper bleed shown on page 14 in section 7.
If your pump voltage is as low as you state there is a bad connection or switch.
You do not mention glow plugs............
Dave

 

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

I don't know how else to say this.. I have followed the manual... it hasn't helped. Thank you for your time, please refrain from commenting further.

Thank you.

 

[Torinodan]

Mine would randomly die too. It was out of fuel. That's not going ro happen again.
So, with the bleeder screw open and the switch on "not running" are you getting fuel flow?
If your engine is turning over you've meet the requirements if your safety switches as they are for the starter only.
I had a G4200 that on two occasions the vent on the fuel cap stopped up and had enough flow the start but not run. Also make sure your tank isn't full of microb growth blocking the pickup in the tank and the first filter.

 

[lmichael]

I don't know how else to say this.. I have followed the manual... it hasn't helped. Thank you for your time, please refrain from commenting further.

Thank you.

Nice a long time member who is trying to be helpful and just tell them to Eff Off. Really nice

 

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

Nice a long time member who is trying to be helpful and just tell them to Eff Off. Really nice

I wouldn't agree he was trying to be helpful. We can all do without the condescension towards new forum members. Ignoring subsequent replies and hounding a potential issue that has already been refuted doesn't progress the post.

Torinodan,

I am getting fuel flow when hooking up the fuel pump directly to the battery. I haven't been able to source the low voltage issue through harness 1. I forgot to mention that the previous owner installed another ignition press-bulb style switch for the starter (I don't think this is a stock option as its not in the wiring diagram). I shall investigate the tank to be sure but the fuel coming from the bleed screws was clean when I caught it.

Images to come.

 

[RCW]

Dave,

I went one bleed screw further up the system than the manual states.

I don't know how else to say this.. I have followed the manual... it hasn't helped. Thank you for your time, please refrain from commenting further.

Wait....WTF?!?!?

You said you didn't follow the Manual...then you said you did....

There's 1,000's of OTT members here on OTT.

If I had a tractor problem, I've learned in 10 years there's about 20-30 people here I'd want to help me with learned advice.

Dave_eng is one of them......his patience is super. He's very, very thorough....

You joined at 7:58PM 11/26/2022, and gave Dave_eng a "brush-off" at 1:20AM 11/27/2022, 5.5 hours later. Last seen at 2:37AM same date.

You obviously are too smart to take advice. You know better.....good for you.

You won't be getting help from me.

Good luck with your problem.

 

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

Thanks for your take. After the manual's solution to bleed the system showed no results, I indeed chose to go one screw further in the system (which is a whopping 8" of 3/8" fuel line). So I don't understand your outrage .

I have no animosity towards Dave but if he is going to get snide in his responses after refuting his advice I will simply choose to move on.

And in my defense, yes, I can read a multimeter... I don't find that to be "too smart to take advice".

 

[BruceP]

I am almost CERTAIN your issue is the "lift pump". (underneath right-rear wheel on frame)

There are ABSOLUTELY NO 'safety switches' which can kill G5200 engine after it has been started. (The 'safety switches' can only prevent cranking)

The 'lift pump' should receive full battery-voltage as long as the key is ON. The owners-manual has full electrical schematic which clearly shows this circuit.

Use voltmeter to perform VOLTAGE DROP TESTING to quickly isolate where the voltage to the lift-pump is being lost.

EXAMPLEs to get you started:

• Start with meter connected from battery-minus to the negative wire of the lift-pump.
  • Expect less than 0.050v at all times
• Then connect meter from battery-plus to positive wire of lift-pump.
  • Expect less than 0.050v when key is ON

If you do not see the voltages I show above... simply use the electrical schematic and successive-approxamation to isolate the fault.

 

[Torinodan]

He does have a problem with the lift pump. The previous owner buggered it up with a separate switch to motor the starter so who knows what actually works at this point the way it supposed to.

When you power the lift pump with the power bypass you provided and get fuel at the bleed screw on the injector pump. Close the bleed screw and crack open both lines at the injectors. With power still applied and half to full throttle turn the engine till you get a good pop of fuel out of both lines.
Reconnect and attempt to start.
Your injection pump may not be delivering good enough pressure/volume to keep it running anymore.
Keep in mind it ran out of fuel and the filter before the pump probably needs changing now.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't know how else to say this.. I have followed the manual... it hasn't helped. Thank you for your time, please refrain from commenting further.

Thank you.

I'm giving you One warning!

We do not allow any member to be rude to another and your comment was down right rude.
Everything he said was correct and good advice.

These engines do not need electric to run, and they need very little to start.
You ran it out of fuel and very likely clogged up the pump, lines, fuel filters, and even possibly passed garbage onto the injection pump.
You need to start from point one (Tank) and work through every piece of the system.

 

[D2Cat]

Thanks for your take. After the manual's solution to bleed the system showed no results, I indeed chose to go one screw further in the system (which is a whopping 8" of 3/8" fuel line). So I don't understand your outrage .

I have no animosity towards Dave but if he is going to get snide in his responses after refuting his advice I will simply choose to move on.

And in my defense, yes, I can read a multimeter... I don't find that to be "too smart to take advice".

You seem to be a bit too sensitive to comments. Dave offered help. You THOUGHT you knew more then him and resent his comments. You need to get a thicker skin or post on another forum!

 

[GulfCoastHasNoDucks]

Sorry you feel that way , I think I have acted objectively and without emotion (quite the opposite of most of the responses on this thread) and I don't think some of you can be otherwise convinced. The only claims of "knowing more" have not come from myself, and if refuting a "comment" is "knowing more" then there is no use for any forum.

Please at least have the same duality for all responses.

I have taken this issue to another forum, on my own accord, and here is what I found.

I disassembled the injector pump to examine the components and found the two forward most plungers (P/N: 15841-51050) had a small section of surface corrosion near the cam follower side causing them to engage and seize. I was able to polish them on the lathe and reinstall. With the lift pump hardwired the tractor will run! I still need to take the fairings off to chase down the low voltage issue in harness 1.