Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
G1800 cranks , won’t fire
- Thread starter Soonerdad
- Start date
Maybe someone like Lugbolt who knows these engines can chime in, but I think you may need to retime it
Pump rides the cam lobs, the cam spins, removing the pump and turning should do nothing to the timing on this engine. I would be worried if the cam didn't turn at all.
Don't lose those shims though! They has more to do with the timing on your fuel spill than anything.
Don't lose those shims though! They has more to do with the timing on your fuel spill than anything.
All this is true. If the rollers are in any way not making full contact with the cam (stuck plungers) you'll not start or not have enough fuel to the injectors.
So am i the only one curious about the ‘4 turns’?!
Like, when was thay adjustment made? wouldn’t happen to be the last time the engine ran, would it? And what was the original purpose of doing that? Was it running weakly before?
I feel like when the human adds a variable and now the machine doesn’t work, we should examine what was done.
Like, when was thay adjustment made? wouldn’t happen to be the last time the engine ran, would it? And what was the original purpose of doing that? Was it running weakly before?
I feel like when the human adds a variable and now the machine doesn’t work, we should examine what was done.
Probably to increase fuel at high rpm on the governor. If its the one one the back of the block(front) it's the fuel adjustment for the gov.
Ok. So what are the perfect storm possibilities of what could go wrong from touching it? You dont lock it down and it vibrates all the way out? Or you crank it in too far and it physically interferes somewhere, or overfuels so much at low rpm that its hard to start? Does it change injection timing any? etc etc. I dont know these things but i know a lot about engines and a lot about unintended consequences so thats where my mind went right away when i heard about ‘4 turns’.
Also, does a g1800 have a compression release lever on the engine? Possible for something to bump it?
Also, does a g1800 have a compression release lever on the engine? Possible for something to bump it?
Ok.
Well, as an ASE master tech I can tell you from my industry experience that regardless of what's 'wrong' with that pump, it'll come back 'fixed', with a matching bill. And then we'll find out if that was ever what was wrong with it.
Hopefully the fact that the fuel was turned up wasn't in response to some pre-existing issue needed to be corrected rather than band-aided with fuel. Hopefully now it doesn't turn out to be something like a cooling system issue, or that the added heat pushed a marginal cooling system over the edge, and now there's been compression loss that wasn't noticed because it's hard for most people to notice what 'power level' a 'governed' engine is operating at and whether it's running at 95% when it used to be running 50% under same conditions, or taking '4 more turns' of fuel to do what it used to do with 4 less, and the fact that a hot engine with poor compression will continue to run 'fine' (other than power loss most people can't quantify) and then be nearly impossible to restart.
Oh well, i got here too late to be useful in the diagnostic. Here's hoping for the least painful result.
Well, as an ASE master tech I can tell you from my industry experience that regardless of what's 'wrong' with that pump, it'll come back 'fixed', with a matching bill. And then we'll find out if that was ever what was wrong with it.
Hopefully the fact that the fuel was turned up wasn't in response to some pre-existing issue needed to be corrected rather than band-aided with fuel. Hopefully now it doesn't turn out to be something like a cooling system issue, or that the added heat pushed a marginal cooling system over the edge, and now there's been compression loss that wasn't noticed because it's hard for most people to notice what 'power level' a 'governed' engine is operating at and whether it's running at 95% when it used to be running 50% under same conditions, or taking '4 more turns' of fuel to do what it used to do with 4 less, and the fact that a hot engine with poor compression will continue to run 'fine' (other than power loss most people can't quantify) and then be nearly impossible to restart.
Oh well, i got here too late to be useful in the diagnostic. Here's hoping for the least painful result.
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cranking the fuel up also increases EGT. That in itself can contribute to holed pistons, broken rings, overheating, etc. I've done it myself. Don't know if it's the OP's issue (probably not?) but I felt it worth mentioning. Leave it alone unless you like tinkering with expensive engines.
It appears my comment about turning up the fuel 4 turns has opened the “ your a dumb shit” portal…lol
Someone tell me this ; what is the proper and correct amount of turns or position or whatever you wanna call it of the governor screw to be considered “ correct” ? I’ll be glad to put it back to that spot. I turned the fuel up thinking I’d get a better flow of fuel to assist in start up. I’m obviously a dumb shit for doing that . Oh well, I’ve done a lot dumber things than turn up a fuel screw 4 turns.
So, someone tell me how many turns from all the way in is considered correct based upon settled science or a manual somewhere? If the answer is “ it depends” well……….
Someone tell me this ; what is the proper and correct amount of turns or position or whatever you wanna call it of the governor screw to be considered “ correct” ? I’ll be glad to put it back to that spot. I turned the fuel up thinking I’d get a better flow of fuel to assist in start up. I’m obviously a dumb shit for doing that . Oh well, I’ve done a lot dumber things than turn up a fuel screw 4 turns.
So, someone tell me how many turns from all the way in is considered correct based upon settled science or a manual somewhere? If the answer is “ it depends” well……….
On your engine the turns would depend on the running condition before turns. A good way of telling without an egt gauge is the color of the exhaust. Running black exhaust is bad on these little engines due to high temps and melting pistons. What was the exhaust color before you shut it down when you were making power? Black, gray, clearish?
I would put the adjustment back where it was. For starts the manual instructions for me have been vague. It says to start these engines at half throttle. I what found that works the best for more having 3 of these little guys is to glow the plugs for at least a minute no matter what the light says. Turn the engine over at no throttle then set to half. Bring it back down after start.
Hope this is helpful.
Hope this is helpful.
Well, the pump is sick. Needs some TLC as a lot of evidence of bad fuel being run Thru it. Full of varnish . Plungers aren’t sticking ….they be worn . Will be tested and should have it back here by Friday. Wasn’t cheap but wasn’t close to the cost of a new on. if it solves the issue I’m good with it.
Hopefully This is about to have an ending that involves a tractor that runs. I’ll update
Hopefully This is about to have an ending that involves a tractor that runs. I’ll update