My loader frame is coming along. Just have to finish a couple plates to pick up the engine block mounts I picked up a 7.5 ft meyers plow today. What should I cut it down to? I’m thinking 6ft. Can anyone tell me what the stock blade measures at?
B6100 snow plow
- Thread starter Bigmatt
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TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
I have the 6' version of that plow and it was more than my B7200 could handle. It's going on the new L3901.
Dan
I got my B5100 with a 4’ blade, which was just obnoxiously small. Upgraded to a 5’ blade and it’s about perfect.
Wow. I thought this little beast would handle a bit more, but I might have overestimated. I think I’ll split the difference and go 5’6”. Of course, I’ll get everything mounted up with the 7’6” plow to verify any take some pictures.
If it is angled, it will push more snow. The blade itself is extremely heavy for your tractor, and you might have difficulty lifting it. I have had times that my BX23S with the 60" Kubota blade would have difficulty pushing the snow because the snow was very wet and heavy. Light fluffy snow is a piece of cake for it.
TheOldHokie
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It s not the width its the weight. That old-school truck plow is a lot heavier than the compact tractor blades.
Dan
We’ll it took most of the evening, a lot of heat and hammering but I got this thing broken down. It is stupid heavy. Way heavier than the truck plow I put on my 8n or my dads cj7. Luckily it was only $50 and I have a plasma. I think I’m going to flip the blade over. This will let me cut the weight in half before I narrow it.
TheOldHokie
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Rust was not the only reason they went to poly moldboards. I feel your disassembly pain - those pivot pins on the blade end of the A-frame can be a real joy to remove
Dan
Wow is this thing narrow. The subframe is done and the blade is cut down to 60”. Now I have to figure out how to connect the 2 and fit tilt cylinders in there. Anyone have detailed pictures of the stock blade? I’m looking for inspiration.
TheOldHokie
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Is this inspiring enough? Those are 10" single acting cylinders. Run you right at $100 each.
Dan
Thanks Dan. Does that mount in front of the front wheels? I think I would have pretty bad tire rub with mid mounts.
Om a separate note, I assume you use the TOH handle over on yesterdays tractors. You helped me figure out the hydraulic front blade on my 8n about a decade ago.
TheOldHokie
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Yep - TOH on YT and NTC
That's a truck plow before mutilation. Hete is where I am headed. A frame cut back to the cylinder mounts and welded to the SSQA. The base end cylinder clevis will be weld to the SSQA not the A frame.
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I mounted mine on a pivot and used the rod attached to the 3pt to raise the whole assy. I think the rod may have been used for a mid mount mower and it moved when you raised or lowered the 3pt
So I don't know a darn thing about plowing snow but I've run b6100s and 7100s with a back blade and a loader, so..
For one thing 60" seems about right, and i would NOT go any narrower because i know a 60" back blade is irritatingly narrow when angled. I'm looking for a bigger back blade.
Second problem though is that without enough weight on the back of the tractor, an angled blade can drag the back of the tractor sideways. I imagine this issue is the same on the front. One thing I can say with what little knowledge I have, is if you pull up on the blade not enough to actually lift it off the ground, but a little less than that, you're putting that much weight on the tractor which will help it go where you point it. Should work even better on a plow than a back blade.
As far as lifting it.. why couldn't a b6100 lift it? My factory loader does 500lb to full height, probably closer to 800lbs off the ground, and the loader runs a whopping 750psi (stock onboard 3pt relief is like 1700 iirc). Seems like if a b6100 couldn't pick up a plow it just means the plow mount wasn't designed right. Does this have something to do with using the 3pt in a very not-ideal way to lift the plow which is 7-8 ft away from it?
If you mount it under the middle of the tractor, the weight the plow is pushing will help pull down the front wheels for 4wd traction. If you take the easy route and just mount it to the front of the frame, you would not be able to 'float' it because the load you're pushing would just try to pick the front wheels up. You could pick up 90% of the weight like i was saying and hold the front end down but if you were on uneven ground it wouldn't follow it. I don't know if people snow plow very much undulating surfaces, though.
Btw, NICE looking tractor! My 3000hr 6100 is pretty ugly!
For one thing 60" seems about right, and i would NOT go any narrower because i know a 60" back blade is irritatingly narrow when angled. I'm looking for a bigger back blade.
Second problem though is that without enough weight on the back of the tractor, an angled blade can drag the back of the tractor sideways. I imagine this issue is the same on the front. One thing I can say with what little knowledge I have, is if you pull up on the blade not enough to actually lift it off the ground, but a little less than that, you're putting that much weight on the tractor which will help it go where you point it. Should work even better on a plow than a back blade.
As far as lifting it.. why couldn't a b6100 lift it? My factory loader does 500lb to full height, probably closer to 800lbs off the ground, and the loader runs a whopping 750psi (stock onboard 3pt relief is like 1700 iirc). Seems like if a b6100 couldn't pick up a plow it just means the plow mount wasn't designed right. Does this have something to do with using the 3pt in a very not-ideal way to lift the plow which is 7-8 ft away from it?
If you mount it under the middle of the tractor, the weight the plow is pushing will help pull down the front wheels for 4wd traction. If you take the easy route and just mount it to the front of the frame, you would not be able to 'float' it because the load you're pushing would just try to pick the front wheels up. You could pick up 90% of the weight like i was saying and hold the front end down but if you were on uneven ground it wouldn't follow it. I don't know if people snow plow very much undulating surfaces, though.
Btw, NICE looking tractor! My 3000hr 6100 is pretty ugly!
Dan, it looks like we have a similar taste in old truck plows. I finished up my mount today. I went with a doubling acting cylinder for the tilt. Easier to package. I have a 2nd cylinder, same as the tilt on order for the lift. We’ll see how the da cylinder works with a float position valve.
Lil Foot
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TheOldHokie
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Everybody with a Jeep wanted one of those old 6 footers.
I am also a firm beleiver that pretty counts and I just wish I could weld as well as you. Color me jealous
Dan
Paint covers a lot of sins. I was using a lot of recycled steel and didn’t clean it as well as I should have. There’s a lot of ugly in there.Everybody with a Jeep wanted one of those old 6 footers.
I am also a firm beleiver that pretty counts and I just wish I could weld as well as you. Color me jealous
Dan
That mount looks good! I can't really tell how it's attached to your subframe, though (just curious).
What's that (i think..) magnetic angle holder thingy you got there on the shop floor?
What's that (i think..) magnetic angle holder thingy you got there on the shop floor?