B2601 Wheel Spacers?

[T0adman]

Hello,
I'm a very new B2601 owner. I have about 10 hours on my tractor so far.
I may have not realized how small a slope qualifies as a hill when driving a tractor. My entire yard is hilly and even some of my paths are off-camber more than I realized before driving them with a tractor (I plan to use the tractor to level them) I started a thread (https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/hills.60203/) about advice for safe operating around hills. If you want to add anything to that thread, please do.

One thing that came out of that thread was that spacers would probably be a huge help. So, here I am asking for more guidance in regards to spacers.
Like I said, I'm very new to tractors (never owned one before) so don't know much. I'm looking for advice on brand, size, benefits, drawbacks, things I should consider that I might not have thought of, etc. Anything that you think would be helpful, I'm happy to hear. I'm also thinking I might want chains for the winter, which I've also read require spacers.
I have a B2601 with filled R14 tires, 54" bucket, 54" box scraper, a 48" rear mower (no MMM), a 50" tiller, 60" snow pusher.

I'm looking for max stability, so in theory would want to go as big as works with my setup? Obviously, I don't want to introduce new problems, though.

I am a bit concerned that I've heard spacers can void the warranty on the axles. Is there risk of damaging the axles? I do not have a backhoe, and my 48" brush hog is probably the heaviest thing I'll put on the back? I assume the larger the spacer, the larger the risk.

I also realized that with spacers, my wheelbase will be wider than my tiller. I assume that's not ideal? I haven't used the tiller yet, should I talk to the dealer to try to upgrade? Or, is it not really going to cause any problem?
Similarly, do I need to worry about going too large for my bucket, box scraper, etc.?

From what I've read, Bora and Brotek are the best brands.
Is there a benefit to steel vs aluminum?

How hard is installation going to be with filled tires?

Anything else that I'm not thinking to ask? Any other info that I can provide to get better advice?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I really appreciate the help I've already gotten from this forum.

 

[DustyRusty]

I have never owned a tractor like yours, however, I can tell you that it the tires are loaded with liquid ballast, you might want to consider having the dealer install the spacers. If a filled tire were to fall upon you, you will be seriously hurt. Most liquids are about 10 pounds per gallon, and your tractor might have 30 gallons or more in them. That is enough to ruin your day.
The other thing that you should consider purchasing is a tilt meter.

 

[trueg50]

The spacers are pretty easy to put on if you do something like the 2" ones that do NOT involve removing the existing studs. It wasn't much more of a pain than changing car tires, just take it as a mental challenge and spend some time thinking it through and plan the work.

I'm a pretty skinny guy and didn't have much trouble doing the install with fluid filled tires. One tip, I had 3/4" plywood scrap pieces (usually see them in my other picture posts) so I could jack the tire up high enough to get it off the ground and remove it, then when installing it I would put the plywood down, roll the tire on it, and line up the holes. If you do that the holes can be good height wise. You can just line up the holes (left to right) and tip the tire onto the studs without lifting the tire. Once you get the top lug nuts on part way you can jack up the tire an inch, pull the plywood out, and the tire can easily be pushed on the rest of the way. I think the tires weigh 250-300lb so I did NOT want to lift them or risk having them fall!

Just take things slow and you'll be fine, you'll feel uncomfortable far before you are near a tipping point so just take it slow. If you want to feel more comfortable then keep your rear implements nice and low to keep the center of gravity low.

Do you have the tractor/implements? The B2601 can handle a 60 bucket just fine if you are worried about width (and 60 finish mower).

Tire wise I love my R14's, I push snow with the 60" bucket and use a 72" back blade for snow removal and they do very well. I can do about a foot deep of snow in one pass (blade angled) before the blade is overwhelmed. Traction isn't really a problem. Last year I didn't get a chance to get out and keep up with one storm so my b2601 was almost bottoming out. For that one I did one pass with the blade 8" off the ground and then a final pass. If it's heavy wet snow it can be a bit much and pull the tractor to the right, if that happens I just raise the blade and do the same 2 pass job. My limiting factor is the blade and getting it to "discharge" since it doesn't roll snow out like a real plow. When pushing I rarely end up spinning out, my main issue is the bucket wants me to keep doing straight lines so I'll use the split brakes to "steer" off to the left/right.

Lighting is another thing to think about, ROPSlights sells pre-wired kits that are well made that just plug into the pigtail in the right fender and get zip tied onto the rops. The 3 light kit has been fantastic for snow removal and other evening adventures.

 

[T0adman]

Thanks.
I was planning to get a tilt meter too. Also open to suggestions on that.

I was thinking maybe 3” spacers would be the sweet spot? But would 2” or 2.5” be better?

I do already have the tractor and implements ( although some haven’t been used yet), so any changes would require some type of exchange. I’m open to it, if it’s important.

I do keep my box scraper on all the time and keep it as low as possible.

TrueG50, I saw you pictures and it was what made me think I could maybe handle it. I have a buddy a couple miles down the road with a BX, which could maybe come in useful too.
Are you driving through the snow at those depths? I’m assuming on flat ground. I have a relatively short driveway but it’s on a hill. I saw GP Outdoors struggling with some snow so was worried about snow traction, but he had Ag tires, I believe. Chains might also let me get into the woods longer in the year, which had pretty steep grass/dirt hills.

I have a snow pusher, which collects all the snow and doesn’t let it roll off the side, which will collect up quite a bit of weight. The dealer talked me into it saying it is by far the best way to clear snow. Guess we’ll see if it’s better than a blower or blade when it snows.

I did get a 4 light bundle installed on my ROPS by the dealer before delivery, so should be good on lighting.

thanks again and keep the advice coming.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: The dealer talked me into it saying it is by far the best way to clear snow.

That's because he ONLY has them in stock !
or...
you only get 4" of snow all winter

Get 1-2' at a time and you'll soon see WHY a blower is best

 

[T0adman]

re: The dealer talked me into it saying it is by far the best way to clear snow.

That's because he ONLY has them in stock !
or...
you only get 4" of snow all winter

Get 1-2' at a time and you'll soon see WHY a blower is best

I'm in WI, so we get a fair amount of snow. I was leaning towards a blower, or just using my normal snow blower since our driveway isn't huge. But, figured I'd be sad spending an hour with my snow blower when I had a kubota sitting right there. Guess I'll find out in a month or two if I made a huge mistake, haha.

 

[VaGlock]

I went with the Brotech 2-inch spacers on my B2601, no complaints a quality product and the cost was worth the extra stability. Installed my self, tires filled just went slow and carefully and had no issues. The factory wheel studs must be removed, again take your time and follow the included instructions. Would not advise this be done unless on a flat smooth surface like garage or paved driveway for safety reasons.

 

[bird dogger]

Re using your tiller with wheel spacers: You may be able to offset your tiller to either side by compensating with the lift arms and sway bars/chains. With the spacers on my B2650 while using my older tiller.....doing it that way will cover one wheel track......and that's all you really need.

Once/if you get your spacers mounted.....hookup to your other implements and see if you can get enough offset to meet your needs.

 

[T0adman]

Re using your tiller with wheel spacers: You may be able to offset your tiller to either side by compensating with the lift arms and sway bars/chains. With the spacers on my B2650 while using my older tiller.....doing it that way will cover one wheel track......and that's all you really need.

Once/if you get your spacers mounted.....hookup to your other implements and see if you can get enough offset to meet your needs.

Thanks, yeah, when I read the instructions for the land pride tiller, it does say it is capable of offset, so that should solve the problem. Good idea, probably better than paying to upgrade, although I will have to it all in one direction instead of back and forth.

 

[T0adman]

I went with the Brotech 2-inch spacers on my B2601, no complaints a quality product and the cost was worth the extra stability. Installed my self, tires filled just went slow and carefully and had no issues. The factory wheel studs must be removed, again take your time and follow the included instructions. Would not advise this be done unless on a flat smooth surface like garage or paved driveway for safety reasons.

Sounds like you're happy with those. Why did you choose 2" specifically instead of something bigger or smaller? Replacing the studs did sound a bit daunting, but you make it sound doable. I would definitely do all of this in my garage on flat pavement.

 

[VaGlock]

I went with 2 inch mainly because I wanted the extra stability but I also have wooded trails and did not want to lose maneuverability through the woods. Also have to consider implement width as was stated.
I used the double nut on the stud procedure, they are tight but I removed mine without damaging them. I have a backhoe on mine and used the stabilizers to lift the rear of the tractor for tire removal and install. only used jackstands to support the tractor while tire was off for safety.

 

[2650fan]

I went with bora 2” spacers on my b2650….wanted the extra stability but felt going much bigger would add too much stress on axles (opinion bases on my feelings only) they made a world of difference with filled tires

 

[T0adman]

Also, I can't seem to find the BORA site. I only seem to see resellers. Do they not have a site for direct order, or am I just bad at google searching?

Also, no one seems to talk about front spacers. Are they just a bad idea?

 

[jimh406]

Bora is a division of https://www.motorsport-tech.com/. You can buy spacers there.

Most people say front spacers are bad.

 

[T0adman]

Bora is a division of https://www.motorsport-tech.com/. You can buy spacers there.

Most people say front spacers are bad.

Thanks!

Are they bad because the weight of the bucket, etc. puts too much weight on the front Axles, or they interfered with steering, or …?

 

[jimh406]

Thanks!

Are they bad because the weight of the bucket, etc. puts too much weight on the front Axles, or they interfered with steering, or …?

All of the above, but at the same time, some people run them. If you search, there should be some threads to find.

 

[2650fan]

Front axle is a pivot, so spacers do not do anything to help with stability, there for kinda a waste of $$, unless you need the extra space for front chains. Which not all applications do

 

[Henro]

Wheel spacers are expensive enough if you can't find cheap ones used on regular vehicles (which I did for my BX2200) that I decided if I would buy them I would split the difference and purchase 4" spacers for my B2910. For the rear wheels only.

Cost/benefit/risk consideration...

 

[T0adman]

Wheel spacers are expensive enough if you can't find cheap ones used on regular vehicles (which I did for my BX2200) that I decided if I would buy them I would split the difference and purchase 4" spacers for my B2910. For the rear wheels only.

Cost/benefit/risk consideration...

How are the 4” ones working out? I hear some people with concerns when you go that big.

 

[Henro]

How are the 4” ones working out? I hear some people with concerns when you go that big.

Still have not bought any for the B2910 yet.

I followed the debate regarding wheel spacers over the years and concluded that in my case the benefit offered by the wider spacers is worth whatever the risk might be.