Fuel Filter stuff

[T0adman]

Hello,
I'm super new to my kubota and the forums. I have a B2601 with only 6 hours on it. I haven't even added fuel yet; still running on the tank it came with.
Today after a week on vacation, and significant cooling temperatures, I went out to look for the QR code to add it to the kubota app and I noticed this in the fuel filter (attached pics). Last time I ran it it was solid red, but not there is clearly something else. They say "red or yellow, never clear" and this looks yellow, but I know it's not diesel. What is this? Is it water? But it also looks like some kind of sediment at the bottom. I assume something needs to be done before I run my tractor? Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Edke6bnl]

Sure looks like water with some diesel floating on the top. No expert but I would drain it and pull the inlet hose and drain into a clear container till it all looked clean.

 

[BX23S]

Diesel fuel is lighter than water, therefore what you see is water condensation with some fuel on top. The cause of this is a partially filled fuel tank and with dropping ambient temps water condenses. Make sure the fuel tank is full at all times.

 

[The Evil Twin]

6 hours? First thing I'd do is call the dealer I bought it from and tell them they need to correct that situation. Looks like a lot of water in the bottom.
Don't let them drive it up on a flatbed.

 

[Gb540]

This almost looks like bad/old biodiesel. The glycerol is separating out, thus being yellow and not clear like water. Also there’s a lot of sediment in the bowl for a new machine with only six hours.

Regardless you do NOT want that stuff getting into your engine! The tank needs to be drained/flushed and filters replaced under warranty.

 

[T0adman]

This almost looks like bad/old biodiesel. The glycerol is separating out, thus being yellow and not clear like water. Also there’s a lot of sediment in the bowl for a new machine with only six hours.

Regardless you do NOT want that stuff getting into your engine! The tank needs to be drained/flushed and filters replaced under warranty.

It does seem like a lot of gunk for a new machine. That’s why I was so confused. A bit of water from condensation would make sense with humid cooling weather. But that doesn’t look like simply water. I guess just because it’s a new machine doesn’t mean it was filled with fresh fuel. I’d like to think the dealer wouldn’t set me up fir problems, but …

i emailed the owner and will call on Mon when they open. Guess I don’t get to play with my new toy this weekend.

 

[BruceP]

Just because the machine is "new" to you... I suspect is has been around for some time. Thermocycling causes condensation within ANY unsealed container. (including fuel-tank, gearboxes....etc)

This is one reason it is a GOOD thing to run machines HARD. Get it good and hot for at least a couple hours to drive out the moisture within the gearboxes and hydraulic systems.

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Your photos show that the water-separator is doing its job.... your job is to check/clean the when water is present. I see no need to make a huge deal out of this besides changing the fuel filters.

As you run the machine, any condensation in the fuel system will migrate to the water-separator for your viewing pleasure.

I ALWAYS add diesel-additive (Power Service Diesel Kleen) to my fuel tank when filling up. This increases Cetane, helps control moisture caused by condensation, and keeps injectors clean.

Power Service products are available at any WallyMart. You only need to add a capful to tractor tank.

UPDATE: Incase it is not clear to everyone.... it is CETANE which is important within diesel fuel. (similar to OCTANE in gasoline) A diesel-additive which increases CETANE will reduce fuel-consumption (more energy within the fuel). Cetane also eases starting cold Diesel engine. When I drove VW diesel, the increased CETANE allowed me to achieve 50+ MPG. It was great to have 800+ mile range on a tank of fuel. (Back then, Diesel was cheeper than gasoline being under $2 gallon)

 

[T0adman]

Just because the machine is "new" to you... I suspect is has been around for some time. Thermocycling causes condensation within ANY unsealed container. (including fuel-tank, gearboxes....etc)

This is one reason it is a GOOD thing to run machines HARD. Get it good and hot for at least a couple hours to drive out the moisture within the gearboxes and hydraulic systems.

-------------------------
Your photos show that the water-separator is doing its job.... your job is to check/clean the when water is present. I see no need to make a huge deal out of this besides changing the fuel filters.

As you run the machine, any condensation in the fuel system will migrate to the water-separator for your viewing pleasure.

I ALWAYS add diesel-additive (Power Service Diesel Kleen) to my fuel tank when filling up. This increases Cetane and helps control moisture caused by condensation.

So, the yellow liquid and sediment is just normal water from condensation? Not something more sinister? Just take it off, dump it, change the filter and everything is fine?

I got a winter additive, but didn’t think it is cold enough yet. Is power service diesel kleen something I get at the gas station, or a more specialized store?

 

[BruceP]

So, the yellow liquid and sediment is just normal water from condensation? Not something more sinister? Just take it off, dump it, change the filter and everything is fine?

I see nothing 'sinister'.... just water-separator doing its thing (it is clear for a reason)
There should be MULTIPLE fuel filters on your tractor. I would change ALL of them. As other folks have said, you DO NOT want crud finding its way into the injection system. This is the reason for all the fuel-filters.

That 'filter' you see in the water-separator is simply to aid in separating the water.... it is NOT the main fuel-filter.

I got a winter additive, but didn’t think it is cold enough yet. Is power service diesel kleen something I get at the gas station, or a more specialized store?

I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (available at wallymart)

• Grey bottle in the summer
• White bottle in the winter.

 

[T0adman]

Just talked with the dealer. I emailed him a pic. He says it’s not clear so I don’t need to be worried. They may have added road diesel (yellow) that didn’t mix with the ag diesel (red). He says I can go ahead and run it without doing anything. He also mentioned that new tractors can have some sediment as things from the factory get cleaned out. He had one with bits of plastic show up.
Does this all sound right?

 

[fried1765]

Just talked with the dealer. I emailed him a pic. He says it’s not clear so I don’t need to be worried. They may have added road diesel (yellow) that didn’t mix with the ag diesel (red). He says I can go ahead and run it without doing anything. He also mentioned that new tractors can have some sediment as things from the factory get cleaned out. He had one with bits of plastic show up.
Does this all sound right?

Of course it sounds right!
A dealer would NEVER misinform a customer.

Answer: Take a clear plastic container to your local gas/ diesel station.
Put enough highway diesel in the container for it to be 1/2 full.
Then finish filling that container, with red dyed (off road) fuel).

Note how they DO NOT mix .....?

 

[lynnmor]

Just talked with the dealer. I emailed him a pic. He says it’s not clear so I don’t need to be worried. They may have added road diesel (yellow) that didn’t mix with the ag diesel (red). He says I can go ahead and run it without doing anything. He also mentioned that new tractors can have some sediment as things from the factory get cleaned out. He had one with bits of plastic show up.
Does this all sound right?

We can only guess as to what the stuff is in your fuel, but I would drain it and save the contents. After careful examination, determine if the tank needs drained and flushed. When complete, take any and all contaminated fuel to your dealer and pour it in the tank of a new tractor in the showroom.

I have circled the sun more times than most on here and have yet to see any measurable amount of condensation, maybe I'm just lucky.

 

[T0adman]

Problem is, I’m a pretty new to all of this. I’ve never owned a tractor of any kind before and only had a diesel car for a few months in the summer while I was living in Europe. So, my assessment of what it is won’t be great. I’ll see if my old timey neighbor who knows everything can come over and take a look.

 

[DustyRusty]

As your dealer if he is so sure that the 2 different fuels don't mix, then why would they fill the tank with it? Then ask him that if he is wrong and the engine is damaged, will he take responsibility to replace the damaged engine and associated parts? Lastly, send your pictures to another dealer and get a second opinion. If it were mine, I would just empty the bowl into a clean glass container and reinstall the bowl, and then wait a day to see if any more "water" migrates into the bowl. If it doesn't then enjoy your tractor. The water separator is doing its job, and I don't see how you need to replace all the fuel filters since you didn't run the fuel through them and into the engine.

 

[T0adman]

I told him I assumed the fuels would mix and he said that can delend on a lot of things.
Guess I also assumed he or warranty would cover any problems since I contacted him and I haven’t done anything to it since delivery. But, maybe worth confirming and I’d still rather avoid trouble than fix it afterwards.

If I empty the bowl, I have to bleed the fuel lines since that’ll introduce air, right?

 

[DustyRusty]

You can probably just clamp the fuel line on the outlet side of the bowl with a pair of vice grips and some cardboard to protect the line from the jaws of the vice grips. Then remove the hose clamp and pull the hose off of the filter. Next, do the same thing on the inlet side of the bowl to stop the fuel from the tank. Then remove the bowl and empty it. Now, using a 2-gallon glass bowl or clear container, unclamp the inlet hose and drain some fuel from the tank, and examine it after it sits for a few minutes. If it settles out like it was in the bowl, then drain the entire tank of fuel and install new fuel. Put the filter back together, and open the inlet hose the new fuel will enter the bowl and start to pour out the other side of the filter, so be prepared to catch that fuel. Reclamp the hose from the tank and install the outlet side hose and install the previously removed clamp. Then remove the vice grip from both hoses. There will be a very slight amount of air in the line, but it will work itself out once the engine starts. Keep your clamping within an inch of each side of the filter.

 

[whitetiger]

I told him I assumed the fuels would mix and he said that can delend on a lot of things.
Diesel fuel mixes with diesel fuel. The only difference between red and clear/yellow diesel fuel is the red is dyed to make it road tax-exempt.
The clear fluid in the bottom of your fuel filter cup is not diesel.


Guess I also assumed he or warranty would cover any problems since I contacted him and I haven’t done anything to it since delivery. But, maybe worth confirming and I’d still rather avoid trouble than fix it afterwards.
The warranty will not cover any damage caused by fluid contamination.

If I empty the bowl, I have to bleed the fuel lines since that’ll introduce air, right?
You can simply unscrew the cup, empty it and reinstall it. The system has an auto fuel shut-off and will bleed itself through the small return hose on the top of the filter head.
This is the only fuel filter a B2601, contrary to what was stated to you earlier.

 

[T0adman]

Thanks!
I did remove the cup and emptied it into a glass jar. The b2601 stops the flow, so can’t easily collect a sample. Then I rinsed the filter and cup with my ‘road diesel’ and poured that into a glass jar. It seems obvious that they are not the same. Also, when shaking the red jar it doesn’t even pretend to mix. It’s obviously water based.
i also noticed that the red diesel is a bit cloudy, but might be the sediment that was in the bottom of the cup.

After that, I filled the cup with fresh diesel and put it back on. Figured that way I wouldn’t get too much air in the lines. I’ll let it sit til tomorrow to see if anything else collects. If it’s clean, is it safe to start it up?

Is it better to run all the old diesel out and then fill with fresh, or fill with fresh before running to dilute any potentially bad fuel with good stuff? There’s a bit less than half tank left.
Is there an additive I should add to help protect in case something isn’t ideal with the old diesel?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

When in doubt, toss it out !

Honestly WHY take ANY chances !!!

Drain 100% of the 'fuel' into cans. Pour some fresh diesel into the tank, drain that as well.
Then FILL the tank up with 'pump fresh' diesel.

NOW you KNOW it's 100% good diesel.
The cost ? Maybe $50 ?? and your time....

As for the questionable diesel,store some in a bog glass jar, check in a week to see if it separates into distinct 'levels'. I use old diesel to help start fires, kill stumps, etc.

 

[RCW]

Just a suggestion, never let the fuel tank get too low….keeping it full helps avoid condensation introducing more water into the tank.

The tank’s lid has a vent in it. When temperatures rise and fall, the vent allows moisture to enter the system. It’s necessary that the system allow for expansion/contraction.