B21 - backhoe removal

[DansB21]

Hi all,

I have owned my B21 for 7 years I have the operators manual for the machine but not the BT751 backhoe. I am trying to figure out how to remove the backhoe and am a little stumped. There are levers on the top with spring-loaded pins that appear to be a release of the top hooks if I am reading it correctly. Or do I just need to remove the 2 large pins on the top that the lever pins nest into?

i know that once the top is released, I lift the stabilizers until the machine can move forward enough to clear, then disconnect the main couplers after resting the frame on blocks or jack stands.

please let me know if I am missing anything here - I keep reading how simple this operation is but I am in a jam at the starting line.

thanks,

Dan

 

[Vlach7]

"Need pictures".

 

[Vlach7]

My L47 is a pain until you figure the right lift with the out riggers and drop of the BH to get the right angle for it to slip out of the holster, not sure how your set up is configured.

 

[fried1765]

My L47 is a pain until you figure the right lift with the out riggers and drop of the BH to get the right angle for it to slip out of the holster, not sure how your set up is configured.

My "solution" is to never take my L48 BH off.
I have a Ford 1920 with 3pt.

 

[Vlach7]

Yep, takes about an hr to from BH to 3p or back, wonderful to have the option.

 

[dirtydeed]

I believe its like the BX models with the hoe. Yes, you should be able to lift the rear of the tractor slightly with the hoe, then just turn the lever to open the spring clamps. Use the outriggers to pick the hoe mounts up out of the cradle. Lower the hoe on blocks (or dolly). Shut the tractor off. Then work the hoe sticks in a circular motion to relieve pressure in lines. Disconnect the hoe line and reconnect the power beyond line to the tractor. Make sure that the power beyond line is connected back to the tractor before starting the engine.

That should be it.

it should be very similar to this:

 

[mikester]

Read your manual for tricks.

On my M59 you are supposed to keep the bucket fully curled and the stick fully retracted and only use the boom for mounting and dis-mounting. Keep the outriggers off the ground. BH Comes off and on easy-peasy this way. What the video above shows makes life more difficult instead of easy.

The other major trick is only use firm level ground - better yet do it on a concrete pad. Rest the BH on pads from an old piece of plywood.

 

[DansB21]

Thanks for the replies all. Watched the video - not sure if the latch is the same but it has not come loose as of yet. I called Powerco in NJ and asked the service department about it. They said the older latch style systems that the B21 has have been eliminated due to them seizing up. Then newer versions only have pins like the L45. He did say that if the BH rarely comes off ( I have never had mine off in 8 years) that it may require heat and potentially hours of persuasion to get it to release. But once it does, it will be about 2 minutes to remove the BH.

I will keep you posted as to the progress

 

[DansB21]

And attached are a couple pics of the B21 latch for the Bh

 

[L35]

Mine were seized but once I worked them free I greased the pins where the springs are and now they move freely.

 

[William1]

One of the first things I did when I got my BX25D was lithium grease the pins for the BH and FEL. Then once a year, pull the pins and relube.
A few years back, my dad gave me a frozen top lint. Never lubed. Made it a life mission to free it. grease, worked, let sit. Each day for a month, I'd spend ten minutes on it. Finally! Now it spins easy for adjustment.
I find it less over all work to grease and collect surface dirt that I have to wipe off annually and regrease than to unfreeze rusted solid stuff. Excess grease tends to make a nice (albeit messy) barrier to dirt and water.

 

[Jchonline]

On the M62 getting it off wasnt bad at all. Getting the large lower pins lined up to get it back on was a pain. Especially when you live in the woods with no nice large concrete pad to work on. My shop is only 24ft deep...not enough!

 

[fried1765]

One of the first things I did when I got my BX25D was lithium grease the pins for the BH and FEL. Then once a year, pull the pins and relube.
A few years back, my dad gave me a frozen top lint. Never lubed. Made it a life mission to free it. grease, worked, let sit. Each day for a month, I'd spend ten minutes on it. Finally! Now it spins easy for adjustment.
I find it less over all work to grease and collect surface dirt that I have to wipe off annually and regrease than to unfreeze rusted solid stuff. Excess grease tends to make a nice (albeit messy) barrier to dirt and water.

Similar issue with top link that had apparently been sitting outside for years.
Put it in a corner spot where it could stand up, added a squirt of Kroil to the threads, and a tap or two with a hammer, each time I walked by.
Let it sit over the Winter ( I did not need to use it).
Freed up easily in Spring.

 

[DansB21]

Hey All,

So I have been working at this issue nd it continues to be stuck. I have sprayed it several times over a few weeks with super penetrating oil as well as tap with a hammer several times in the hopes it would pop. I have tried releasing the stabilizers and applying pressure with the backhoe up and down and it will still not release.

So what do I try next - heat and attempt to get the pins to release rather than the latch? I don't know if there is enough room to fully remove the pins but if that is the solution, I can certainly try it. I do have an Oxygen / Acetalyne torch . . .

I am actually cleaning this thing up to sell and I want to make sure it all works properly rather than make it the next guy's problem.

Thoughts?

Dan

 

[L35]

You are lubing the pivot pins (bottom of the handle) correct? That’s what was seized on mine. Some light heat with a propane or mapp gas torch and penetrating lube (50/50 acetone/atf is supposedly the best) after removing the c clips should get you moving.

 

[Vigo]

Ok im trying to understand this problem:

Depending on which part is stuck determines what i would do next.

IF the orange handle is able to move and is just banging back and forth on that small pin without actually retracting the silver 'lock', i would just pry between the silver lock and the C shape of orange bracket it's in, to try and get it moving.

If you can't get it moving by prying in that space, maybe remove that small coil spring and get a punch/drift and start 'driving' it.

By the way if you are using a 2lb or smaller hammer it's going to feel sketchy and dangerous to put in the amount of force you need. A 3 or 4lb sledge would be a lot more comfortable in terms of not having to swing it as hard or fast.

If none of that worked i'd take out the long bolt that those locking 'keys' pivot on, then after it all falls apart you can clean it up and put it back together so it works right.

 

[L35]

The handle pivots on the shaft and moves those blocks (for lack of a better term) out of the way so the “jaws” or “key” can unlatch from the pin they encircle. The shaft rusts and prevents the handle from pivoting, nothing can move because of that.

Check out the 4:20 mark in this video.

 

[Vigo]

Good video. It's obvious you don't want the backhoe 'hanging off it' when you finally get those things to pop loose, but the video makes it more clear the way you need to load it up so that it's safe to move those things.

 

[L35]

Good video. It's obvious you don't want the backhoe 'hanging off it' when you finally get those things to pop loose, but the video makes it more clear the way you need to load it up so that it's safe to move those things.

Yea you are actually supposed to lift the back wheels off the ground with the backhoe before moving the levers to the release position.

 

[Vigo]

Well i would NOT have known that from over here.. maybe the design of the lower attachment makes that 'obvious' but if i was just trying to figure it out i sure wouldn't have guessed that that was 'necessary'. Huh