Hydrostatic vs Geared Transmissions.

[Lawngevity]

I'm looking to replace my Husqvarna lawn tractor and Honda 9hp snow blower with something more useful and ultimately easier to use. I have less than an acre of grass which I enjoy mowing at a leisurely pace. The snow blowing on the other hand, that's a rough task as the snow blower is wheeled (not the track version with skid steer) and the driveway is 135' feet long. The snow blower throws me around like a rag doll, especially where the driveway meets the road. I'm not sure I'm willing to deal with that as I age and decline physically, especially once I retire in 16-18 years.

I'm considering either the Kubota GR2120 (with blade and blower) or the BX1880 (with 54" MMM and HLA snow pusher). However, the B2401 with gear drive seems like a lot of tractor for the money, hence my question below.

Is a geared tractor less suitable for residential lawn mowing and snow blowing for a homeowner than a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission?

Thanks for any and all feedback and opinions!

 

[Crash277]

I use my bx for both those functions, and i use a '74 ish gear drive in the field (doing hay). For residential use I love having the hydrostatic, i also love the hydro for doing loader work. For field work running haybine and bailers etc I prefer the gear drive because you just have to steer.

i would recommend hydrostatic for what you're wanting to do.

 

[Roadworthy]

With a geared tractor or mower your forward motion speed is controlled by your throttle setting and gear selection. With hydrostatic it's infinitely variable by how far you push the pedal. I LIKE that capability. HST is also preferred when you're doing a lot of switching between forward and reverse such as loader work. I prefer HST for mowing due to the ability to vary my speed.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I've used a geared tractor (65hp) for a couple of weeks to help a friend clean up his property. So, not much experience, but a bit.

I have had the BX for 5-ish years and have done and expect to do a lot of work with it.

No way would I want to use a geared tractor for small stuff like you are doing. The hydrostatic is just too convenient. There is no comparison between the ease of use between a geared tractor and a hydrostatic tractor.

The reason the larger tractors are geared is that gears transfer the power much more efficiently than a hydrostatic trans. In the bigger sizes, well, obviously you need that power because that's why you got that big tractor in the first place. If the hydro were as efficient as the geared trans, I think geared transmissions would fade out of the market completely.


Do yourself a favor - get a hydrostatic tractor that can handle a blower.

The snow blowing on the other hand, that's a rough task as the snow blower is wheeled (not the track version with skid steer)

FYI, I have a Club Cadet tracked blower. WHen I can keep the tracks on it, it works well enough, but keeping the tracks on is a challenge. Maybe it's just that particular model, but I won't replace it with another tracked blower.

 

[Dave Ogren]

I have a BX23S with hydrostatic drive and a Power King with a 3 speed. For what you are looking for the Hydrostatic Drive would be absolutely the best option. No question.

 

[RBsingl]

Using a gear instead of hydrostat for the tasks you describe would be like driving a manual transmission in city traffic for a couple of hours each day, it would quickly grow old.

For your tasks, the hydrostat is the perfect transmission for the job and will be much easier and convenient to use. With both mowing and snow removal you will be frequently changing travel speed and direction.

 

[hodge]

While all of the above opinions are on point and valuable, there is still the topic of preference. I will always prefer a manual over an auto in a vehicle, so a gear drive tractor isn't a big compromise for me. I mow with my gear drive 790, no issue or regret. However, roadworthy brings up a good distinction- with a gear drive tractor, you control your speed with the throttle and change of gears, versus the variable hydrostatic pedal. With a geared tractor, when you slow the engine down, you slow your pto driven implement down. With hydrostatic, your RPM's stay the same, regardless of speed increase/decrease or direction change. So, as an example, when you are bush hogging heavy grass, you don't lose power or blade speed to the mower when you change speed or direction with a hydrostatic transmission. To me, that is the shining difference.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

For snowblowing ( and rototilling) HST wins hands down over gears. You can quickly and easily adjust ground speed based upon the changing 'quality' of that ,grr, 'white stuff' !
I have a dedicated Craftsman(same as Husk...) with 40" BERCOMAC snowblower and chains for the past 15 years. It's been a GREAT setup. Actually looking for another rider as I scored another BERCOMAC.
If whatever you're dealing with (dirt,grass,snow) has the SAME consistency, then gear or HST will perfom the same, as you're always moving xx mph, moving yy material.
I also have a dedicated lawn cutter, 20 year old Cub Cadet as I will NOT EVER go back to 'swapping' implements...too much of a PITA.

 

[Biker1mike]

I have a geared unit and it is great for mowing and hauling stuff. It is no fun when plowing snow. The straights are good but if you have a large parking area you are constantly shifting reverse to forward in and around cars.
The small tractor and plow in New England winter is tricky. You need to plow way back early in the season or the banks will over come the driveway. Just not enough horse power to push the banks back. This does a number on the lawn. If the plow boys make the end of your driveway a really high bank , the small plow takes some time to knock down the drift and not get stuck.

IMHO: I would go hydro and snow blower attachment.

 

[Jchonline]

HST hands down if you are handling snow as well.

 

[pigdoc]

I'm another vote for HST. When you need maneuverability, it's king. And, with a yard that size, you'll be shifting gears a hundred times. Three steps every time you do that with manual (push clutch in, shift, let clutch out). Only one step with HST. Either push the top of the pedal (to go faster), or the bottom of the pedal (to back up).

Also think about 4-wheel steering or even ZTR if you have a lot of obstacles or turns to get your yard mowed. I'm not sure they make a snowblower for a ZTR... ;-)

I was skeptical of the 4WS on the old G1800 I just put into service. Took some getting used to, but it is quite amazing. Like I said in another posting, you can make a 90-degree turn with 4WS and the inside edge of the deck carves a radius of about 6 inches. PO put a steering wheel ball on my tractor. Pretty handy when I need to go lock-to-lock on the steering all at once.

How mechanically inclined are you? I absolutely LOVE rehabbing old neglected machines that are not totally worn out. And most Kubota parts are not that hard to find (say, compared to 1960s Chrysler stuff).

I love my G1800! G1800s and G1900s are getting a bit hard to find, because they're 23+ year-old machines by now. Then again, you'll find internet listings for dozens of these machines selling at auction per year.
check marketbook.ca for auction prices. Buy low hours, and you're usually safe.

Also, get diesel. Smooth, quiet, more durable, if not a bit more finicky to start during cold weather. [That's what garages are for.] They punch way above their weight on torque, compared to gas. Low-RPM torque rules in tall grass and deep snow!

-Paul

 

[Vladhed]

I have a Husqvarna HST lawn tractor and a B2401 gear drive tractor with a brushhog.

The Husqvarna is great for getting in the tight spaces around the trees, going fast over the smooth lawn but being able to slow down easily for the bumpy bits and tight turns.

The B2401 is great for hacking down a whole fields with buckthorns, where you pick a gear and go in straight lines at that same speed for hours. I also mow some walking/skiing trails with it, but don't need nearly the turning radius that I do to mow my lawn, nor the fine control over my speed.

To run a MMM, rear mower, brushhog or a snow blower, you need the engine running at 2500 RPM - which means for any given gear, the tractor goes one speed. In "M" range, you can go 2, 3 or 5 mph. In "H" it's 4, 6 and 11 mph. Want to go 3.5 mph? Too bad, you can't. Want to change from 3 to 5 mph? Clutch and come to a complete stop, shift, reduce engine speed and let the clutch out, increase engine back to 2500 RPM. In particular, operating a cheap, rear mounted snowblower you'd be limited to 1, 2.5 or 5.5 mph as there is only 1 R gear, for L, M and H range.

I did a short video this weekend on using the B2401 PTO, coincidentally with a brushhog, if you want to know what you'd be getting yourself into.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.

I'm looking to replace my Husqvarna lawn tractor and Honda 9hp snow blower with something more useful and ultimately easier to use. I have less than an acre of grass which I enjoy mowing at a leisurely pace. The snow blowing on the other hand, that's a rough task as the snow blower is wheeled (not the track version with skid steer) and the driveway is 135' feet long. The snow blower throws me around like a rag doll, especially where the driveway meets the road. I'm not sure I'm willing to deal with that as I age and decline physically, especially once I retire in 16-18 years.

I'm considering either the Kubota GR2120 (with blade and blower) or the BX1880 (with 54" MMM and HLA snow pusher). However, the B2401 with gear drive seems like a lot of tractor for the money, hence my question below.

Is a geared tractor less suitable for residential lawn mowing and snow blowing for a homeowner than a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission?

Thanks for any and all feedback and opinions!

Personally I think your two transmissions have very different uses…my preference in general is geared, however I think HST is superior for slow/finess work around obstacles and especially with with a loader. Despite my preference for geared, both of mine are HST and in the case of the MX it’s really more for my spousal unit to be able to operate….if foot slips off a pedal it stops…geared it’s the opposite. Regarding a blower on a tractor, I’ve only used on a large machine I was not the owner and it was on the rear end. I thought it was handy…it also allowed the bucket to still be used. Whether you choose front or rear mount, before you walk away from the walk behind blower I’d recommend you consider can you get the tractor into where you need to be blowing snow? A BX or a B will take up some lineal space with a blower and/or bucket attached….so I think your space constraints maybe worth a check? Include overhead constraints too, especially if putting on the rear (if need to fold rops that could be an issue like if you plan to drive under awning or overhead door or something). Good luck.

 

[mikester]

I wish my HST had cruise control for bush hogging. If you have a lot of trees and obstacles to mow around HST is very nice to have. Same for snow blowing.

Geared tractors tend to be more fuel efficient.

 

[RBsingl]

I wish my HST had cruise control for bush hogging. If you have a lot of trees and obstacles to mow around HST is very nice to have. Same for snow blowing.

Geared tractors tend to be more fuel efficient.

My Deere 955 is a hydrostat with cruise which just locks the control in its current position, something similar could probably be implemented on your tractor. But I almost never use it even when mowing wide open pasture. And I am a "cruise control addict" using it whenever conditions permit with my truck and three cars

Even with the bush hog, I find that I vary speed pretty often as the "stuff" being munched varies from light grass to mulberry that seems to sprout and grow at Kudzu like speed

Rodger

 

[mcmxi]

No way would I want to use a geared tractor for small stuff like you are doing. The hydrostatic is just too convenient. There is no comparison between the ease of use between a geared tractor and a hydrostatic tractor.

It's hard not to agree with this. I think we can all get used to what we have and can learn to make the most of what we have, but as an owner of an MX6000 with HST and M6060 geared, the HST is much easier to operate and I've spent a lifetime owning and driving manual transmission cars and trucks.

If I had to give up one tractor it'd be the MX6000 with HST but that's because the performance and capability of the M6060 vastly outweighs the convenience of the HST in the MX. Now, comparing two tractors of similar capability and performance, no question the HST wins out.

 

[mcmxi]

I wish my HST had cruise control for bush hogging. If you have a lot of trees and obstacles to mow around HST is very nice to have. Same for snow blowing.

Geared tractors tend to be more fuel efficient.

I use cruise control (manual throttle control) in the M all the time as well as the the cruise control in the MX so I have to agree that it's a really nice feature. It's particularly nice on my property which is hilly and bumpy and it eliminates PIO (pilot induced oscillation) in the M. I have a hand throttle in my Jeep for the same reason since it's much easier to control rpm driving over obstacles and on bumpy roads.

The cruise in the MX is very nice when running the flail or rotary cutter for hours on end since it allows me to relax my leg and foot.

 

[mikester]

My Deere 955 is a hydrostat with cruise which just locks the control in its current position, something similar could probably be implemented on your tractor. But I almost never use it even when mowing wide open pasture. And I am a "cruise control addict" using it whenever conditions permit with my truck and three cars

Even with the bush hog, I find that I vary speed pretty often as the "stuff" being munched varies from light grass to mulberry that seems to sprout and grow at Kudzu like speed

Rodger

The WSM shows an input for CC on the ECU but the dealer can't find any support from K about using something like an L6060 CC on my machine

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: The WSM shows an input for CC on the ECU

could be as simple as adding a push button to that pin, to ground.
If there's +12 on that pin, it's internally 'puled high', so a 'low to go' configuration. press button,sends a momentary 'low' to the ECU..and CC is activated. pressing fwd/rev pedal should release the CC operation.

 

[RBsingl]

The WSM shows an input for CC on the ECU but the dealer can't find any support from K about using something like an L6060 CC on my machine

Unless the machine has electronic control over the hydrostatic transmission with the pedal/treadle mechanism just controlling the encoder for the ECU, it will still need some means of locking the speed control in position. ECM control has been the standard cruise control implementation for many years for vehicles with "throttle by wire" and multiple fixed ratio automatic or manual transmissions but it isn't as simple with the continuously variable transmission in ag equipment with a manually controlled hydrostat drive.

Rodger