Any pointers on how I get the three point structure down lower? I tried all afternoon to get my middle buster down as low as I could get it, but it goes into the ground 6" at best, I'm planting tulips and would like to get to 8" at least.....do I need a new/different downrod? Any pointers are appreciated.
Lower the three point assembly for middle buster.
- Thread starter ronlackey
- Start date
I can only suggest if you shorten your top link a couple inches from the present setting will change the angle the plow contacts the ground.. This may help..
If that doesn't work, lengthen the top link a couple inches from the initial setting to see what helps..
If that doesn't work, lengthen the top link a couple inches from the initial setting to see what helps..
Yep. Shorten that top link. Your middle buster is pivoted past vertical, which is costing you some depth. If you can get it completely vertical, you might pick up enough depth. Maybe not quite two inches. Can't tell until you make the adjustment.
Lengthening it will just rotate it farther past vertical, raising the tip even more.
But on another note... Is it just my old eyes? Or are those 3PH arms not as low as they should be?
Lengthening it will just rotate it farther past vertical, raising the tip even more.
But on another note... Is it just my old eyes? Or are those 3PH arms not as low as they should be?
Can your side links be positioned further back on the lift arms? That will allow for more "drop".
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Do you have additional holes to attach your top link on the tractor? Mine does and that can affect the depth of the 3ph
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I think bird dogger and I are thinking same thing, but saying it different ways.....
The side links/lift arms look to be well back on the lower arms.
If there are more mounting holes on the lower lift arms closer the tractor (closer to rear axle), would make the 3PH lift higher and also go lower. Many tractors have two options. Yours look to be in the holes way back from the axles. Want them closer to axle.......
Change in fulcrum extends range of motion in both directions at the expense of a little lifting force.....I think....
Also, looks like top link is in lower hole on tractor mount. Not sure which is better, but could be worth a try also.
I'd definitely start with location of the side/lift link attachment to the lower arms....
Last edited:
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
6", 8" ,it don't matter , dang squirrels will rearrange the bulbs for you...... 
ok, fun's over...
you should be able to drag the lower bars/middle buster along the top of the ground( or even below 1-2" ) , , so 'something' needs to be adjusted 'somehow'.
when you get it right ,please take a picture or two ,so next time you can SEE what you did.
ok, fun's over...
you should be able to drag the lower bars/middle buster along the top of the ground( or even below 1-2" ) , , so 'something' needs to be adjusted 'somehow'.
when you get it right ,please take a picture or two ,so next time you can SEE what you did.
That picture you have posted shows your 3pt in an up position, you should have more downtravel than that. Have you checked to make sure that the stop screw on your 3pt is at the bottom?
Please post a picture with it in use in the down position
Please post a picture with it in use in the down position
I have the same middle buster from TSC and used it for potatos with my L3901. On mine, I lowered the lifts by moving the right and left link clevis pins to the lowest connection point. In addition, I shortened the top link to minimum length. That made the plow angle more aggressive. I was digging 14-16" when the ground was level. I didn't destroy too many.
Moving lift links forward not rearward on draft arms will allow 3pt draft arms/middle buster to lower more for more ground penetration.
I well know that. But I made a quick comment that pertained to the picture he posted from the back end of his tractor. I should have said "as pictured, move the side links inward toward the rear axle".nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
A. Your implement attack angle needs adjustment - like others mentioned - by shortening the top link so the buster tip angles down towards the ground more.
B. The pic shows the lower links are well up from their lowest. Are you sure that when the 3-point position control lever has been dropped to its lowest, that the lift arms are actually bottoming out while operating the buster? It could be the attack angle makes the buster ride on top of the hard-pan instead of cutting deeper, and those lift arms never get to their lowest.
C. If the 3-point is actually bottoming out while being operated, then move the bottom pins on the lifting rods to their forward position holes in the lower links a few inches in front of the rear "standard" position holes they are in in the pic. The lower links will drop a couple degrees lower and higher than the standard rear holes allow, and lose a bit of lifting power but not noticeable in this application.
The lower link angle will drop the bottom of your buster a few inches. Shorten the top link after changing the pins position to keep the digger frame vertical at bottom position. In my case I use the front link-mount holes for a subsoiler, and our PD15 post digger. With the digger it can actually reach full depth, probably 8-12" lower than the standard link arm pin position allows.
B. The pic shows the lower links are well up from their lowest. Are you sure that when the 3-point position control lever has been dropped to its lowest, that the lift arms are actually bottoming out while operating the buster? It could be the attack angle makes the buster ride on top of the hard-pan instead of cutting deeper, and those lift arms never get to their lowest.
C. If the 3-point is actually bottoming out while being operated, then move the bottom pins on the lifting rods to their forward position holes in the lower links a few inches in front of the rear "standard" position holes they are in in the pic. The lower links will drop a couple degrees lower and higher than the standard rear holes allow, and lose a bit of lifting power but not noticeable in this application.
The lower link angle will drop the bottom of your buster a few inches. Shorten the top link after changing the pins position to keep the digger frame vertical at bottom position. In my case I use the front link-mount holes for a subsoiler, and our PD15 post digger. With the digger it can actually reach full depth, probably 8-12" lower than the standard link arm pin position allows.