great! Thanks both for the advice and steering me away from senseless money spending.Definitely only the rear should be done.
Wheel spacers make a major difference and is the best upgrade/modification I have made for my 2601. Only consideration for mounting them/caveat I can think of is that Mid-Mount Mowers might have clearance issues with the spacers, but thats about it. If you aren't mounting a mid-mount mower then I'd also consider ordering a step too (you can order a B2650 step and it fits).
Here are shots of my mount up with 2" spacers.
Half through the install; left tire is stock, right has the spacer:
View attachment 77502
Tractor back on the ground, spacers mounted
View attachment 77503
Why do you say that only the rear should be done?Definitely only the rear should be done.
Wheel spacers make a major difference and is the best upgrade/modification I have made for my 2601. Only consideration for mounting them/caveat I can think of is that Mid-Mount Mowers might have clearance issues with the spacers, but thats about it. If you aren't mounting a mid-mount mower then I'd also consider ordering a step too (you can order a B2650 step and it fits).
Here are shots of my mount up with 2" spacers.
Half through the install; left tire is stock, right has the spacer:
View attachment 77502
Tractor back on the ground, spacers mounted
View attachment 77503
Adding them to the front doesn’t do anything for stability of the tractor as the back is your lateral tipping point.Why do you say that only the rear should be done?
Front spacers reduce the tricycle/narrow front tractor effect of having the front narrower than the rear.
What row widths are the LX2610 made for? I haven't measured yet
I'd pay extra for adjustable wheel width, like the old real tractors had.
The older tractors had adjustable axles. You didn't add spacers to the wheels to get your row width right. They were also mostly 2wd which made it a lot easier to change the width out front. These 4wd tractors arw a fixed front width. Adding spacers just acts like a lever on your bearings and puts more stress on them, and also changes your steering geometry.Why do you say that only the rear should be done?
Front spacers reduce the tricycle/narrow front tractor effect of having the front narrower than the rear.
What row widths are the LX2610 made for? I haven't measured yet
I'd pay extra for adjustable wheel width, like the old real tractors had.
I think that is the real reason to refrain from spacing the front wheels out, the idea that it doesn't add stability makes no sense.Adding spacers just acts like a lever on your bearings and puts more stress on them, and also changes your steering geometry.
And the older tractors lasted 50 years and are still kicking. I don't think you'll see that out of any of the new tractorsThe older tractors had adjustable axles. You didn't add spacers to the wheels to get your row width right. They were also mostly 2wd which made it a lot easier to change the width out front. These 4wd tractors arw a fixed front width. Adding spacers just acts like a lever on your bearings and puts more stress on them, and also changes your steering geometry.
The reason that it doesn't add to the stability is that the front axle is designed to pivot on a center point. Lift the front end of your tractor off the ground with the loader and then push down on the tire and you will see that it is free floating, or at least it is on my BX23S. I believe that almost all Kubota tractors are built this way. My 1964 Minneapolis Moline was the same way, and when one wheel dropped into a hole, the tractor kept pushing forward and flipped over onto its side. I was thrown clear and other than a few bruises I survived. That lesson has never left me and I realize that almost any tractor can flip over.I think that is the real reason to refrain from spacing the front wheels out, the idea that it doesn't add stability makes no sense.