Newbie really needs help - - 1988 L2850DT

[Artichoke]

When the front wheel drive lever is engaging the front differential you have the resistance of the engine helping you slow down when foot is off the fuel.

D2Cat, I think this is all really beginning to make sense, and in a way I might retain! But after all my misunderstandings, I want to really double-check: When I move the front wheel drive lever to the forward position, which the OM tells me to do in order to disengage the front wheel drive, then, and only then am I in the default 2WD, meaning that one (or with differential lock two) rear wheels are driving the tractor.

Oh, for Sanity's sake, I hope I'm finally getting this right. So if I am just out tooting around, not needing 4WD, then the front wheel drive lever is forward (disengaged) and the hi-lo gear shift lever should probably be forward as well in the lo position (providing access to gears 1 though 4).

When is the hi lo gear shift lever put into the middle-ish (neutral?) position?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

D2Cat, I think this is all really beginning to make sense, and in a way I might retain! But after all my misunderstandings, I want to really double-check: When I move the front wheel drive lever to the forward position, which the OM tells me to do in order to disengage the front wheel drive, then, and only then am I in the default 2WD, meaning that one (or with differential lock two) rear wheels are driving the tractor.

Oh, for Sanity's sake, I hope I'm finally getting this right. So if I am just out tooting around, not needing 4WD, then the front wheel drive lever is forward (disengaged) and the hi-lo gear shift lever should probably be forward as well in the lo position (providing access to gears 1 though 4).

When is the hi lo gear shift lever put into the middle-ish (neutral?) position?

You got it. The neutral between lo and hi is kind of by default. The gears need clearance in the gearcase so they don't both engage simultaneously. It would be good to put it in neutral if you were ever towing the tractor.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Artichoke, you mentioned learning to use the brakes for steering assistance. There are two (at least) schools of thought on this.

I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors with no differential locks, so if one wheel started spinning I could slow it down by applying the brake on that side. Monday, I was climbing up a trail (in 4 wheel drive) and one rear wheel started slipping on some loose stuff. Since I don't lock the brakes together, I just reached over and tapped one brake for a second and was back on my way. Dune buggies/sand rails use the same trick.

My BIL always locks the brakes together - that's how I know who used the tractor last. That prevents you from having the tractor pull to one side if you don't press both brakes together for a normal stop. He would have needed to stop (or slow down), push the differential lock, and start again.

If you don't lock the brakes together, you need to make sure you always hit both pedals for normal (or panic) stops. Otherwise, you may find yourself turning unintentionally.

 

[D2Cat]

Artichoke, you mentioned learning to use the brakes for steering assistance. There are two (at least) schools of thought on this.

I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors with no differential locks, so if one wheel started spinning I could slow it down by applying the brake on that side. Monday, I was climbing up a trail (in 4 wheel drive) and one rear wheel started slipping on some loose stuff. Since I don't lock the brakes together, I just reached over and tapped one brake for a second and was back on my way. Dune buggies/sand rails use the same trick.

My BIL always locks the brakes together - that's how I know who used the tractor last. That prevents you from having the tractor pull to one side if you don't press both brakes together for a normal stop. He would have needed to stop (or slow down), push the differential lock, and start again.

If you don't lock the brakes together, you need to make sure you always hit both pedals for normal (or panic) stops. Otherwise, you may find yourself turning unintentionally.

And with enough speed, locking one brake can cause a roll over especially on solid ground. So if using high gears going to another location lock the brakes together.

 

[Mrlunchbox]

Artichoke, you mentioned learning to use the brakes for steering assistance. There are two (at least) schools of thought on this.

I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors with no differential locks, so if one wheel started spinning I could slow it down by applying the brake on that side. Monday, I was climbing up a trail (in 4 wheel drive) and one rear wheel started slipping on some loose stuff. Since I don't lock the brakes together, I just reached over and tapped one brake for a second and was back on my way. Dune buggies/sand rails use the same trick.

My BIL always locks the brakes together - that's how I know who used the tractor last. That prevents you from having the tractor pull to one side if you don't press both brakes together for a normal stop. He would have needed to stop (or slow down), push the differential lock, and start again.

If you don't lock the brakes together, you need to make sure you always hit both pedals for normal (or panic) stops. Otherwise, you may find yourself turning unintentionally.

Related and unrelated lol Years ago at work I was up in our brush dump with our old Ford payloader. I blew a steering line and had to drive all the way back using just the brakes. It was about half a mile through the woods. That was a blast.

 

[Artichoke]

You got it. The neutral between lo and hi is kind of by default. The gears need clearance in the gearcase so they don't both engage simultaneously. It would be good to put it in neutral if you were ever towing the tractor.

Would it be good, also to put the hi-lo in neutral if I am just "tooting around". Still wondering where my hop-on default control positions should be...

 

[Artichoke]

You got it. The neutral between lo and hi is kind of by default. The gears need clearance in the gearcase so they don't both engage simultaneously. It would be good to put it in neutral if you were ever towing the tractor.

Would there be other times when it would be kinder to the orange beast to have the hi-lo control in neutral? If we are towing the tractor, I'm thinking the tractor might not be running. But when 'using' the tractor, should the hi-lo be in low for gears 1 through 4, and high for 5 through 8? Or to ask another way, when I'm sitting in the seat, would I ever want to have the hi-lo in neutral?

 

[Artichoke]

Artichoke, you mentioned learning to use the brakes for steering assistance. There are two (at least) schools of thought on this.

I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors with no differential locks, so if one wheel started spinning I could slow it down by applying the brake on that side. Monday, I was climbing up a trail (in 4 wheel drive) and one rear wheel started slipping on some loose stuff. Since I don't lock the brakes together, I just reached over and tapped one brake for a second and was back on my way. Dune buggies/sand rails use the same trick.

My BIL always locks the brakes together - that's how I know who used the tractor last. That prevents you from having the tractor pull to one side if you don't press both brakes together for a normal stop. He would have needed to stop (or slow down), push the differential lock, and start again.

If you don't lock the brakes together, you need to make sure you always hit both pedals for normal (or panic) stops. Otherwise, you may find yourself turning unintentionally.

Sounds like something to look forward to - - like as a kid when I was anticipating proper double-clutching of an old Jaguar! But probably steering-by-brakes is not somthing I'll try to master anytime soon. (Though it is nice to know it is there...)

 

[Artichoke]

And with enough speed, locking one brake can cause a roll over especially on solid ground. So if using high gears going to another location lock the brakes together.

D2Cat, It will be a looong time before I am ready to try brake steering. Heck, it's probably going to be a looong time before I even go into 3rd gear. I'm still very much at the newbie stage of "start slow".

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Would it be good, also to put the hi-lo in neutral if I am just "tooting around". Still wondering where my hop-on default control positions should be...

You won't go anywhere in neutral.

 

[Artichoke]

You won't go anywhere in neutral.

;-)

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Would there be other times when it would be kinder to the orange beast to have the hi-lo control in neutral? If we are towing the tractor, I'm thinking the tractor might not be running. But when 'using' the tractor, should the hi-lo be in low for gears 1 through 4, and high for 5 through 8? Or to ask another way, when I'm sitting in the seat, would I ever want to have the hi-lo in neutral?

Yes, in low you get 1 - 4. In hi you get 5 - 8. No real reason to have it in neutral, normally.

 

[Artichoke]

Yes, in low you get 1 - 4. In hi you get 5 - 8. No real reason to have it in neutral, normally.

PoTreeBoy, thank you. Simple answer, to the point, and I get it! (a rare and wonderful thing!)

 

[D2Cat]

Tell us about your tractor, how you acquired it, how long you owned it, what is your intended use.

 

[MountainMeadows]

In 2wd both rear wheels are driven equally until one wheel has less traction. That's when the differential pinion gears allow the power to be transferred to just one wheel: The wheel with less traction. The differential lock "locks" the pinion gears and prevents them from allowing just one wheel to spin.

The same is true in 4wd. All wheels are driven equally until 1 wheel, front or rear, has less traction and once again the differential pinion gears allow the power to be transferred to the wheel with less traction. In 4wd this can mean that you have both a front wheel and a rear wheel spinning. Once again the differential lock will lock the pinion gears on the rear wheels and then you'd have the power being transmitted to 3 wheels.