I snapped the propeller shaft on my B7100 HST right ahead of the splines toward the rear of the shaft. I have no idea how to remove the shaft from the front end and I'm hoping it does not require splitting the tractor. Can anyone tell me how big of a project this might be?
B7100 broken propeller shaft
- Thread starter Kdogg
- Start date
Get the correct WSM, throughtly read and understand what's entailed prior to begining. Check availabilty of components needed. Any ideas how the damage occured, was the shaft in use, tiller, rotary mower, etc.? Something caused it to break, once the repairs are complete, ensure that whatever equipment is used is protected by properly adjusted slip clutchs, shear pins, etc..
Yeah, I was using a tiller on some pretty compacted soil. The tiller has a slip clutch, but as you suggested, it obviously needs some adjustment. Thanks for the reply.
Self taught lessions are the best learned. Slip clutchs and shear pins are alway overlooked, most will grease/check gearboxes, etc. Adjust slip clutchs per manufactures instructions and shear pins should be of the proper material ( be careful on used equipment because some rocket scienist might have installed a hardened pin), I have only one piece of equipment with a pin, I alpply anti-sieze then install the yoke and pin. There have been cases where the shaft and yoke have rusted rending the pin useless.
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
I am a little confused about which shaft snapped. If it is the drive shaft from the transmission forward to the front axle then the slip clutch on the tiller has nothing to do with the failure.
No, it's not the FWD shaft. It's the shaft right under the center of the tractor that the clutch is attached to. I see how it is connected at the rear where it broke, but I don't know how it is held in on the front side.
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
You need to split the tractor to fix that shaft. Not a bad job on a b7100. I split mine about 5 years ago to put in a clutch. Most time consuming was removing the loader and subframe. Splitting the tractor was easy.
OK, thx for the heads up. Hope it's as simple as you say. No loader to deal with!
Splitting is easy. Mine has a loader. Just did mine 3x, 
. First time: 17 hours, third time, 4 hours. This includes pplate, disc and TO bearing replacement. Pointers:
Remove battery to make the top two bell housing bolts more accessible.
Set the tractor level and keep both halves level as you split it.
Mark the top alignment pin on the block and the hole on the bell housing. Do the same for the mounting holes too. This makes for quick visual of alignment while sliding it together.
Tie your clutch pedal up, if you remove the return spring.
Before removing fuel line at the filter inlet, pinch the line with small c clamp at the filter inlet to avoid draining tank. Also between filter and pump to avoid purging the air prior to start up. Have a pan ready to catch the small amount of fuel in the filter.
If you have a hydraulic pump up front, the inlet/outlets are 26 mm.
Watch your steering link, as you slide it together. Make sure it stays on top of the foot rest.
If it’s 4x4, tie the front wheel drive shaft up, against the bottom of the bell housing. Keep your eye on it, it will need to go into the front wheel drive unit.
After splitting, place some grease on the sides of the front and read frame rails, where they slide together and bolt together.
When putting it together, keep checking the input shaft by feeling around it, making sure it is inline with the clutch disc splines. Depending on your hand size, you can only do this up to a certain point. My limit was about 1/8” from end of shaft to disc splines. But it was enough for me to feel all around and ensure it was centered.
If you find yourself stuck at about 2” apart, your input shaft isn’t inline with disc. Back it up slightly and try again. It doesn’t require much force, more of a solid, left to right forward wiggle. If you got to force it, it is not inline.
Good luck.
. First time: 17 hours, third time, 4 hours. This includes pplate, disc and TO bearing replacement. Pointers:Remove battery to make the top two bell housing bolts more accessible.
Set the tractor level and keep both halves level as you split it.
Mark the top alignment pin on the block and the hole on the bell housing. Do the same for the mounting holes too. This makes for quick visual of alignment while sliding it together.
Tie your clutch pedal up, if you remove the return spring.
Before removing fuel line at the filter inlet, pinch the line with small c clamp at the filter inlet to avoid draining tank. Also between filter and pump to avoid purging the air prior to start up. Have a pan ready to catch the small amount of fuel in the filter.
If you have a hydraulic pump up front, the inlet/outlets are 26 mm.
Watch your steering link, as you slide it together. Make sure it stays on top of the foot rest.
If it’s 4x4, tie the front wheel drive shaft up, against the bottom of the bell housing. Keep your eye on it, it will need to go into the front wheel drive unit.
After splitting, place some grease on the sides of the front and read frame rails, where they slide together and bolt together.
When putting it together, keep checking the input shaft by feeling around it, making sure it is inline with the clutch disc splines. Depending on your hand size, you can only do this up to a certain point. My limit was about 1/8” from end of shaft to disc splines. But it was enough for me to feel all around and ensure it was centered.
If you find yourself stuck at about 2” apart, your input shaft isn’t inline with disc. Back it up slightly and try again. It doesn’t require much force, more of a solid, left to right forward wiggle. If you got to force it, it is not inline.
Good luck.
That is an extremely comprehensive and thorough explanation that can only come with doing something repetitively!!! Thank you so much for that and I'm hoping that I am "one and done"!Splitting is easy. Mine has a loader. Just did mine 3x,
Remove battery to make the top two bell housing bolts more accessible.
Set the tractor level and keep both halves level as you split it.
Mark the top alignment pin on the block and the hole on the bell housing. Do the same for the mounting holes too. This makes for quick visual of alignment while sliding it together.
Tie your clutch pedal up, if you remove the return spring.
Before removing fuel line at the filter inlet, pinch the line with small c clamp at the filter inlet to avoid draining tank. Also between filter and pump to avoid purging the air prior to start up. Have a pan ready to catch the small amount of fuel in the filter.
If you have a hydraulic pump up front, the inlet/outlets are 26 mm.
Watch your steering link, as you slide it together. Make sure it stays on top of the foot rest.
If it’s 4x4, tie the front wheel drive shaft up, against the bottom of the bell housing. Keep your eye on it, it will need to go into the front wheel drive unit.
After splitting, place some grease on the sides of the front and read frame rails, where they slide together and bolt together.
When putting it together, keep checking the input shaft by feeling around it, making sure it is inline with the clutch disc splines. Depending on your hand size, you can only do this up to a certain point. My limit was about 1/8” from end of shaft to disc splines. But it was enough for me to feel all around and ensure it was centered.
If you find yourself stuck at about 2” apart, your input shaft isn’t inline with disc. Back it up slightly and try again. It doesn’t require much force, more of a solid, left to right forward wiggle. If you got to force it, it is not inline.
Good luck.
Be sure to put a block of wood (wedge) between the front axle housing and base of engine on both sides. This prevents the engine from flopping to one side when it is separated from the bell housing.