Tell me what NOT to do!

PNWL3560

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2022 L3560, LA805, RCR-1860
Aug 23, 2022
4
0
1
Oregon
Howdy. I just bought a brand new L3560HST. Got a bucket and a mower too. I have never owned or operated any of this equipment. Looking for advice on things one shouldn't do. Like: "don't drive perpendicular through a ditch with your mower attached, you'll break the PTO shaft!"
Should do's are ok too. I'm reading the manual, so that should cover most maintenance type things.
 

Bmyers

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Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
May 27, 2019
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Woodman gave you good start. Read your manual. Then read it again.

Go slow and use the safety devices on the tractor.
 
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pjoh784350

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BX23, quick attach bucket, 3 point, pallet forks
May 3, 2019
162
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Danville
First rule of new tractor ownership is "never a borrower nor lender be"
 
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Pawnee

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L2501
Jul 1, 2021
351
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Ontario Canada
Greasing is important. Don't assume the dealer greased it properly, or filled all the oils either.
Make sure you know where all the zerks are, some of them are easily missed.
There was one on a Deere(I think) that never got in the manual, resulting in many failures.
 
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85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
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Everything you do - do it slowly, never RAISE the bucket IF you are not looking at it !!!!!!!
 
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ctfjr

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L3800HST
Dec 7, 2009
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central ct
Keep your head on a swivel. When making turns things stick out, a lot sometimes.
Remember to lower the ROPS before going into a garage (if applicable)
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Keep the loader low if at all possible. Some new operators will run with the loader high to increase visibility. While that does increase visibility, it also greatly raises the center of gravity of the overall machine making it much more susceptible to rollover. The loader on mine goes up something like 9’. Can’t recall ever having it that high except once on flat ground just to see how high it actually goes. That’s a LONG way up. Scares the crap out of me to have it fully raised.

At least until you have enough hours on various terrain performing whatever tasks, take it slow. I can’t count how many times one end of the tractor or the other started to come off the ground or something else started to get ugly, but because I was aware it was a dicey situation and I was going slow, I was able to correct the issue before any harm was done. So long as it’s stable where it is, if it’s getting weird, sometimes you just need to pause and ponder the best way to get out of the mess you’re getting into.

Along the lines of going slow, grant yourself a large dose of patience. Don’t expect to be a highly competent operator immediately or even after a few hours in the seat.

If on any sort of slope, keep the ROPS up and wear the seatbelt.

Use 4WD if using the loader. You have rear brakes, no front brakes. If going downhill with a load in the loader and the back end gets light while in 2WD, you have no brakes so you’re either along for a wild ride or drop the loader and tear up the ground. If in 4WD, the front wheels are tied to the transmission and the rear wheels so you get both engine braking and wheel braking in the front.

For me, thousands of hours seat time doesn’t translate to immediate high competence with a new implement. When I got the L, I had probably at least 5000 hours on old school tractors running 3 point ag implements and pulling trailers off road, but very little loader experience, 0 grapple experience, forklift experience only with an actual forklift, and backblade experience but no boxblade experience, no experience with HST or Tier4 diesel. Yes, some of my prior experience was very helpful, but it took me a while to get good with the boxblade, loader, and grapple. Love the forks, but I still have so few hours using them I’m still quite slow and I’m sure quite painful to watch trying to use them efficiently. Don’t get frustrated with yourself.

One story about going slow: Shortly after getting the Kubota I was cleaning out and widening a creek crossing. Had a load of mud in the bucket, front wheels in the creek, back end above front due to slope. Right front wheel broke through the crust of solid dirt into a milkshake thick slurry of sediment so it was stuck. Right rear was spinning, left rear wasn’t. Engaged diff lock and tried again. Right rear broke through into the same sloppy mess and the tractor listed off to the right, but no way to roll over because right rear wheel was jammed in the dirt bank to the right. The more I messed with it, the deeper it sunk. So before it got all the way to the frame, I stopped, throttled down, and just spent a few minutes thinking how to get out of this mess. Didn’t really want to dump the mud back in the creek but no choice. Dumped the load of mud to lighten the front end, curled the bucket down, and raised the front of the tractor with the loader. Curled up while backing slowly with the diff lock engaged and the loader pushed the tractor back about a foot. Repeated the process a couple more times and freed the tractor. Then walked into the creek to see how bad it really was and sank over my knees. Thankfully had enough sense to have a hold on a chain on the back of the tractor so I was able to pull myself out without having to call 911 for rescue. Left the whole mess as it was and waited until about 3 weeks later when the whole mess had dried quite a bit, then finished the job. Point being, yes it was a bad situation but never really dangerous and spending a few minutes to make a plan rather than panicking into making a bad situation much worse got me and the L out of a literal hole.
 
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Magicman

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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Oct 8, 2019
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Never drive with a loaded bucket higher than it takes to clear the ground. Actually a good rule of thumb is to not drive with the bucket up whether loaded or not.
 
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Norman

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LX2610HSD;LA535;LP 60" grapple; WC68 chipper; GB60 SW cutter
Sep 30, 2021
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Georgia, USA
Be especially cautious if off-camber (perpendicular to a hill or slope) regardless of bucket load or attachments.
 

old and tired

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Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
Hopefully you'll have oil in the front axle but some dealers do not top it off and you'll have a minimum amount in there. Don't assume it was done. Check every oil level, why not...

Use counter weight on the 3 point hitch if you plan to use the loader to move loads!!! Liquid ballast in the tires help to keep the tractor stable but it's not a substitute for rear ballast.
 
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Magicman

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A turned over tractor is not a pretty sight, especially when it's you in the driver's seat. :oops:

(I was told that by a friend.)
 

BigPapi

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BX2380, FEL, 60" LP Landscape Rake, 48" LP Box Blade and Land Pride QH05
Sep 23, 2021
19
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Vermont
Howdy. I just bought a brand new L3560HST. Got a bucket and a mower too. I have never owned or operated any of this equipment. Looking for advice on things one shouldn't do. Like: "don't drive perpendicular through a ditch with your mower attached, you'll break the PTO shaft!"
Should do's are ok too. I'm reading the manual, so that should cover most maintenance type things.
There are also some good videos out there on YouTube regarding information for new tractor owners, including tips about maintenance and on how to avoid stability issues, etc
 

nbryan

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Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,234
768
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Get spare sets of spring clips and locking pins for your 3-point and attachments, and keep them stashed somewhere safe on the tractor. They have a habit of vanishing for whatever reasons.vBeing stopped cold while out working the tractor by losing a lift pin for the 3-point because its "locking" clip or pin fell or got bumped off is zero fun. And dangerous. Just get used to scanning for any missing or loose clips every time you get on the tractor. It takes 5-10 seconds for me to look over the 3-point assembly and attachments to make sure ALL the clips have stayed. I've seen them gone so many times...

And if you ever fully lower the ROPS, be careful not to raise the 3-point too high I've bent my adjustable top link when it hit the lowered ROPS. Like safety for all operations, watch carefully that no mechanisms can bind or interfere through their full range of motion. Hydraulic power can and does simply bend or break things easily.

Use the 4WD when lifting and moving heavy loads with the loader. And have sufficient ballast on the back of the tractor. The 4WD engages the front wheels which allow for engine braking if the rear wheels (and their brakes!) get lifted off the ground by loader weight. Not fun having to drop a load to the ground because you're rolling uncontrollably down a grade with the rear wheels dangling in the air. You may want to invest in a ballast box, or a box scraper, for rear counterweight for loader work.

ALWAYS at least glance backwards before backing up. Left-Right peripheral vision will get a workout. But you'll get used to it, just DO IT. Dented garage doors and siding corners, chunks of trees debarked - my personal signs of learning this lesson. All thankfully minor!
 
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JeremyBX2200

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BX2200
Aug 3, 2020
466
436
63
Indiana
Having rear ballast is great. I worked without it for a little while before I picked up my box scraper. Had to be extra careful and it limited what I could do.

Now if I am doing any real FEL work I always hook up the box blade too.

Go slow and try and be very aware of what is around you. Having a FEL swinging off the front and a box blade in the back can make it easy to swipe things.

Don't get frustrated if you try to do a job and it isn't as easy as you want it to be. It can take sometime to figure out what works and what doesn't.
 
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TGKY

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Equipment
L4701DT
May 24, 2018
113
38
28
US
When I got my L4701 I wasn't new to a tractor, but I was new to a loader- be careful when sitting your bucket down that it clears what it needs to clear. I bent a guard and one of the solid hydraulic lines right above the bucket the second day I had it trying to straddle somthing in the barn.

Dont go too fast for the situation you are in. Leads to potential errors AND it can be hard on equipment under certain circumstances.

If you do much bush hogging- don't let the radiator screen get too clogged. Watch your gauges.
 
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Pawnee

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L2501
Jul 1, 2021
351
306
63
Ontario Canada
Not my thread but thanks for all the replies guys!
This is going to help a few of us I think.
 
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Magicman

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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Oct 8, 2019
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Pawnee, you may not be the OP but the thread belongs to OTT and as such it is here for all of us to contribute to and learn from. (y)
 
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aaluck

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L4400HST, Bush Hog 276, RDTH60, Speeco PHD, etc
Oct 9, 2019
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Turn the tractor OFF if you are doing ANYTHING that involves being near the PTO.
 
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