L4240 Problem with Lift Rods

[Baldric]

Fitting a hedge cutter to my L4240 tractor and only now realise how important it is that all joints, pivots and pins are tight. Mine are not so I am having to change both lift rods and pins.
My problem is I cannot undo the lift rod to lift arm joints! I am assuming these are tapered joints and have attacked them with pullers, joint separators, big hammers, blow torch etc. all with no success.
Anyone got any ideas on how to get these apart....am I wrong in thinking these are tapered Joints?
Any help gratefully received.

 

[Russell King]

Assuming you are trying to get the pin out of the arm, get all the weight off of it by removing everything that is attached to the pin. Then soak it with PB Blaster or similar good quality penetrating oil and wait for it to work. Then try to tap it out but don’t get too aggressive or you may crack the arm. I don’t think that is a tapered joint.

I don’t understand why it won’t come out if it is loose.

You may be better off trying to rig up a puller of some sort.

 

[Dave_eng]

This subject has been a topic on the forum before.
The pin with the nut retaining it is a tapered fit into the lift arm and the tightening of the nut which you have loosened draws the tapered pin in very securely as you have found.
A two jaw puller might push the pin out. I would use a center punch to get a small hole drilled in the center of the pin to keep the puller drive end in place as you increase the pressure on the puller.
Do some searching on the forum as there were more suggestions which might have included a tapered bearing separator.

I checked the WSM and it has no instructions for the pin removal. It just says "remove the pins."
A pickle fork bar might work as a wedge on the opposite side of the pin, not the nut side.
If you have a sledge hammer, Hold it against the lift arm wgile you give a hard tap to the nut end of the pin. Leave the nut on flush with the end of the pin so the threads are not damaged. The heavy mass of the sledge hammer is used to avoid putting bending forces on the lift arm when you use the hammer.
Dave

 

[Baldric]

This subject has been a topic on the forum before.
The pin with the nut retaining it is a tapered fit into the lift arm and the tightening of the nut which you have loosened draws the tapered pin in very securely as you have found.
A two jaw puller might push the pin out. I would use a center punch to get a small hole drilled in the center of the pin to keep the puller drive end in place as you increase the pressure on the puller.
Do some searching on the forum as there were more suggestions which might have included a tapered bearing separator.

Dave

Thanks Dave,
I did a quick search earlier today but could find nothing on the subject...I'll try again but thanks for confirmation it is a tapered joint. I have tried both a two jawed puller (a strong one) and a tapered bearing seperator (two types) all without success! I keep the nut in place, part engaged, to locate the puller end.
Guess I going to have to keep lubricating and leave some pressure on the joint till it gives up (or I do).

 

[Baldric]

I can see signs of loctite oozing out from the thread side of the joint. If this is on the taper too, it will make a tough job near impossible.
I have already tried hitting with two opposing hammers to distort the taper but no success!
I'll go again tomorrow with the sledge hammer!

 

[D2Cat]

I am confused on your task. You say. ".... now realise how important it is that all joints, pivots and pins are tight." If the joint is so tight you can't remove the pin why do you want to remove it?

 

[Baldric]

I am confused on your task. You say. ".... now realise how important it is that all joints, pivots and pins are tight." If the joint is so tight you can't remove the pin why do you want to remove it?

The part that is difficult to release holds the lift rod which has a worn Cat 1 linkage and a worn clevis and pin. Can't change those parts without releasing the joint with the lift arm (as in my image).

 

[D2Cat]

Can't you turn the turnbuckle until the bottom end is free?

 

[Henro]

I can see signs of loctite oozing out from the thread side of the joint. If this is on the taper too, it will make a tough job near impossible.
I have already tried hitting with two opposing hammers to distort the taper but no success!
I'll go again tomorrow with the sledge hammer!

If what you see is locktite you may have to apply a fair amount of heat to release it.

Nothing is impossible, just difficult sometimes…beware of the BFH though!

 

[chim]

I've never dealt with that specific part, but have had success with similar situations using a pointed air chisel bit. As Dave mentioned, it's good to have a divot in the end of the bolt to keep the chisel bit centered (and keep the nut partially on as well). The sharp smacks from the chisel are often more effective than beating it with a 3 pound hammer.

 

[Baldric]

Can't you turn the turnbuckle until the bottom end is free?

If that was the only part worn I would. Unfortunately, the top (Cat 1?) section is worn too.

 

[Baldric]

Going to try loads of heat and constant pressure rather than too much BFH! If that fails, I'll give the air chisel a go.

 

[woodman55]

Going to try loads of heat and constant pressure rather than too much BFH! If that fails, I'll give the air chisel a go.

A good air chisel with lots of air behind it can do wonders.

 

[Russell King]

So you really want the top of the vertical arm off the pin? And that ball joint won’t come off the pin? So you are trying to remove the pin and replace the pin and the vertical arm?

You have tried to remove the top ball joint from the pin with a puller?

You can grind through the ball to get it off the pin?

You can remove the small arm at the lifting shaft (rock shaft) and then press the pin out.?? That is probably stuck but is a splined fit so may come apart easily. Mark position on shaft before removing the arm!

 

[Baldric]

So you really want the top of the vertical arm off the pin? And that ball joint won’t come off the pin? So you are trying to remove the pin and replace the pin and the vertical arm?

You have tried to remove the top ball joint from the pin with a puller?

You can grind through the ball to get it off the pin?

You can remove the small arm at the lifting shaft (rock shaft) and then press the pin out.?? That is probably stuck but is a splined fit so may come apart easily. Mark position on shaft before removing the arm!

I really do not want to start taking too much apart as a workaround. I have a very narrow window to get some hedge cutting done before the land becomes too wet to safely traverse.
If I cannot release the lift rod to lift arm pin soon, I will replace all below that point for now and re-visit over winter.
I have tried pullers, pushers, heat, hammers etc....this thing(s) is not for moving!
Once I get clear of hedge cutting, I think cutting through the pin and drilling into it and using a ball joint breaker will get the job done. Getting new pins however, may prove troublesome!
I will post the eventual solution when I get there.

 

[Dustyx2]

If it has indeed been Loctited, you need 350+ F. to release its bond. I don't see any signs you have had it that temperature. It will burn the paint off. If I were trying this I would get the 2 jaw puller back on it and get it tight. Then get out the rosebud and heat it HOT. If it hasn't come out yet, smack it good on the side of the lift arm at the joint with a BFH.

 

[Baldric]

If it has indeed been Loctited, you need 350+ F. to release its bond. I don't see any signs you have had it that temperature. It will burn the paint off. If I were trying this I would get the 2 jaw puller back on it and get it tight. Then get out the rosebud and heat it HOT. If it hasn't come out yet, smack it good on the side of the lift arm at the joint with a BFH.

You are right, ony used fairly gentle heat (100d C or so) so far. Will try the bigger blow torch and get it up to 180 or so.