1.33 acres, heavily wooded and overgrown... Need advice on a tractor purchase!

Aug 23, 2022
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Delmarva
hmm.. are YOU going to USE firewood out of the 'bush'. If not, then see if others will come for 'free firewood- you chop and haul' type deal. I did that for a couple tall trees. Saved me the time and aggrevation, they even relocated the brush into neat piles for me.
options, always try to think of options....
We're bringing an arborist out to help identify problem trees and species.
We'll have a firepit outside and a wood stove inside, so if the walnut or oaks have to come down, we'll season that wood for our own use. Otherwise we might do a haul-away option for the community to help us clear things out, that's a good idea to consider!
 

B737

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Hoober is a large dealership in DE VA PA, they are highly competitive, well stocked, and a first class experience if you are near one. I used the one near Newark DE.
 
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minthral

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The property was abandoned for 40 years and is in major need of attention. There is an old 1800s farmhouse that we will be renovating over the next year +, while the contractor is out there working on the structure, I'd like to put some time into reclaiming the lot.

There are a lot of old-growth trees on the property we'd like to preserve: pawpaw, black walnut, persimmon, trifoliate orange, poplar, boxwoods (40+ feet tall!), dogwoods, redbuds, cedar, and many more I have yet to identify. The ivy and vines are strangling the trees though, and there are a lot of small saplings that should be removed as well. I'd like to cut a few trails through the back of the lot too.

The primary uses for the tractor:
Finish mowing the lawn (less than 1/4 acre) - That isn't much grass and is not a good fit for a tractor mower. Buy a zero turn or riding mower for same cost than a mower deck would cost on tractor, then you got dedicated machine and no hassle of removing and adding deck, plus much better cut quality (zero turn will cut faster, better, and the experience is more enjoyable).
Removing cut trees - You can chainsaw everything in smaller pieces and garden tractor towing a trailer will handle more than small BX bucket.
Removing brush - BX/B can do this with a grapple, however they lack ground clearance and protection to go in woods. Then the question becomes what do you do with it? You can burn it or use a wood chipper, however BX/B lacks PTO power for those.
Cutting trails - You need larger equipment for this (4-10 ton, costing 75-100k++). You can however 'chip away at it' in a smaller tractor, though you'll run into lots of road blocks.
Hauling and spreading gravel for driveway - A truck will deliver gravel and do decent spread dropping it. After that is done, hired help or racking to finish it is your best bet. This wont be a consistent need.
Occasional snow removal (we get a decent snow fall once every 5 years) - Snow removers are available for garden tractors or stand alone units would work as good or possibly better than BX blower. You can only get front mount blowers on tractors with mid PTO.
Hauling and spreading mulch - Mulch is light and BX would do it fine. Normally this is done every year or longer duration, so depending on how much you need, I'd still say wheel barrow it or hire help (surprising how much work 2-3 guys will do in a day). Aside from transport, spreading mulch on the ground/garden is hand work anyway. You'll likely be buying it bagged too, which a garden tractor + cart can be used to move it (or even a pickup truck). Bags + dump is what I'd do unless you actually need a truckload (that's lots of gardens or trees...)
Hualing and spreading compost - Same situation as above, though it is heavier.
Maintaining a vegetable garden - Don't need a tractor for this aside from tilling the ground. All hand work and people have gardens all the time with no tractor.

EDIT: adding photos to help visualize the property. It's hard to capture the extent of it, but there is a full acre of this level of growth...
Sorry I guess I missed this or it got updated later. Comments in bold...

From the pictures and the description, I’d say forget about using a B or BX tractor to do the first part of your list. You need MX size or better yet skidsteer or mini ex to clean that stuff.

The tractor will be very handy for the house renovation project, however you mention a contractor is doing all the work, so you don't need to equipment I guess. If you're talking about clearing land around it, that's something larger equipment can do.

I'd recommend first hiring someone to do this heavy duty work first. After they're done, see where you're at and determine if you still need a tractor. Proper equipment will clean up 1 acre a lot of faster than you think. This seems to be your primary need atm and again a B/BX is NOT proper size for that.
 
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Rdrcr

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I have 5 acres of undeveloped forest property. I started with a weed-wacker and a chainsaw. I ungraded to a JD garden tractor and mini-dump trailer. I then transitioned to the Kubota B2601 w/ MMM and now the Kubota L2501 and dedicated ZTR mower. I could easily utilize an MX and the MX would not be oversized for the property or the work I do.

However, I can get most of the work done with the L2501 (I’ll hire out for the BIG stuff) and when I finally get everything done on the property, the L2501 will be the perfect size to maintain it.

Mike
 
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JeremyBX2200

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I would assume from you posting this that you want to do a lot of the work yourself. If this is the case then I would say getting some kind of a tractor is a good idea.

I have a BX2200 that has made my life a ton easier. I purchased a house on 5 acres that had been neglected. No real trees, but quite a bit of brush and small saplings. I maintain/mow about 2-2.5 acres of it. Also have a garden and gravel driveway.

For attachments I currently have a FEL,MMM and rear box blade. I rent a tiller attachment for the 2 times a year that I use it. It took me having and using the tractor for a bit to figure out what implements to buy (that I would use alot) and what ones to rent (infrequent use).

The general rule of thumb (for the most part) is that when looking at a task the smaller tractor will do it (within reason)....it will just take longer. You can dig a pond with a BX and FEL, it will just take a lot more time than with a bigger and more specialized piece of equipment. My neighbor said a previous owner dug my 1/2 acres 8-9 ft deep pond with an old Ford tractor and a rear blade.....just took him months to do it.

My personal thought is that a BX would work well for you. Get the underbelly guard and FEL. After using it for some tasks decide what other attachments would be good. I always recommend a box blade. Great for leveling, moving dirt and also good rear ballast for FEL work. Hooks for the FEL are a great inexpensive add on that I use quite a bit.

I will add some pics in a bit.
 
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Henro

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Above, you mentioned you are ~210 pounds (I think). I would think twice about BX or B2601 (same operator station). I'm 5'11" 185 pounds and was really uncomfortable on both BX and B2601 after more than 2 hours in the seat.
Just another data point, but I am 5'11 and 207 or so, and I have no issue with my BX. BUT I don't have a loader on it. Perhaps that might make a difference? Loader is on my larger tractor....Also no issues on my B2910...regardless of how many hours operating...we are all different I guess...LOL
 

Henro

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From the pictures and the description, I’d say forget about using a B or BX tractor to do the first part of your list. You need MX size or better yet skidsteer or mini ex to clean that stuff.
Just make sure you have enough room on the property to turn that MX around when needed! ROFLMAO

Sorry, but I can't help myself. There is likely about an acre to deal with at most in the OP's case. When you subtract the house, driveway and yard area, maybe 3/4 acre.

Time to get real with recommendations as far as equipment goes. As for hiring it out...have no idea. I am a do it myself guy...my weakness I guess...still no regrets on my part though after 50 years using this approach...after starting counting at age 25...
 
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Aug 23, 2022
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Delmarva
I guess the alternative would be to hire out initial clean-up, then buy a riding mower with a hitch to pull a dump wagon/cart or something like that?
The rest of my chores I would continue to take care of with hand tools, shovels, forks, rakes, etc.

I just would hate to do that and in another year be overwhelmed by the work by hand; regret not getting the tractor. I suppose I could keep the riding mower, and just buy a subcompact if I feel like I could really use it, opt out of the belly mower (depending on the riding mower I went with, the cost would likely be the same?)

I can see both sides of the argument...

My wife would need to be convinced that two machines are better than one, lol. The numbers would speak loudly though.
 

JeremyBX2200

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To give you an idea of work I have done with the BX. I have a lot more not listed.

My hillbilly dump trailer. Previous owner drilled a hole in the bucket lip. I use it to mount a trailer ball so I can move my trailers around and to make it easier to unload rocks and dirt. Just have to watch the weight on the trailer so I dont bend the bucket.
DumpTrailer.JPG

Spread 20 tons of topsoil with the tractor. Alot of it in the garden. Also used the tractor to clear the area (covered in brush), level the area (box blade), till it and drive the t-posts in with the FEL.
GadenDirt.JPG


Bucket hooks to move/lift stuff
BucketHooks.JPG
 
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D2Cat

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I was hoping you'd post pictures of the in town house that's been neglected for 40 years, hasn't been condemned and in good enough condition to rebuild. Around here a house left unattended for 40 years would mean the roof has holes in it, rain has deteriorated ceiling, walls, floors and windows are broken and not worth trying to resurrect. Sounds like a project!
 

JeremyBX2200

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Just illustrating a lot of ways even a small BX can make life easier.....even on a small piece of property. Just depends on what your projects are.

Winter plowing area
PlowArea.JPG


Digging up an old stump. The FEL is not the best tool for the job, but I was able to expose the roots enough to powerwash the dirt out and cut them and then get it out.
DiggingStump.JPG


Hauling a good sized tree limb that I cut out to the burn pile. The limb was hanging over the roof. Used the bucket hooks, chain and a strap thrown over a higher branch to secure the limb and have it swing out from over the roof when I cut it.
BigBranch.JPG


With it being old farm ground there are some areas with tons of big rocks piled up. FEL makes moving them around a lot easier.
Rocks.JPG
 
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Aug 23, 2022
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I was hoping you'd post pictures of the in town house that's been neglected for 40 years, hasn't been condemned and in good enough condition to rebuild. Around here a house left unattended for 40 years would mean the roof has holes in it, rain has deteriorated ceiling, walls, floors and windows are broken and not worth trying to resurrect. Sounds like a project!
Sorry, I guess I should clarify:
The house was abandoned for 40 years from 1970 - 2010. A couple has lived in the house for the last 12 years, but the land hasn't been maintained.

Since this post was about tractors, I didn't feel it was necessary to get into the details about the house itself. It is still a major project, but the house hasn't been vacant for 40 years, it's primarily the land that has decades of work ahead of us!

A little about the house for anyone curious:
1890 construction, has an original asbestos roof in great condition, though we are getting quotes on abatement since I'd rather not deal with the roof replacement after renovations.
Structurally, the house is solid. But, it's all knob and tube electric (needs full replacement), and plumbing needs to be full replaced.
It's a major project. Will be taking the entire house down to the studs and redoing it all.

At the end of the day though, 1.3 acres in town is unheard of. And, the lots that do approach this size are all old farms/corn fields with no trees. This property has an old-growth forest on it, a lot of 60+ foot tall walnut trees, and really unique characteristics.

For what we are paying, the house is simply a bonus feature in our opinion, but it has good bones (based on the contractor's comments) and is not in the historic district, so while we want to preserve a lot of the original home's character, we have the freedom to do what we want without needing Historic Preservation Commission approval (another selling point :) )
 
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Aug 23, 2022
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Delmarva
Wow @JeremyBX2200 you really put that tractor to use!

These photos are inspiring, especially for a 22 HP subcompact!
I started looking at the BX2680, then thought the B2601 would be better, now I'm going the other way and looking at BX2380 and even BX1880...

I need to just get to the dealership and spend some time on each machine.

At the end of the day, I'm less worried about saving a thousand bucks here or there and would rather get the right machine for my needs (wants) - all of these should last a lifetime, so it's really a buy-once cry-once situation!
 
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JeremyBX2200

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Wow @JeremyBX2200 you really put that tractor to use!

These photos are inspiring, especially for a 22 HP subcompact!
I started looking at the BX2680, then thought the B2601 would be better, now I'm going the other way and looking at BX2380 and even BX1880...

I need to just get to the dealership and spend some time on each machine.

At the end of the day, I'm less worried about saving a thousand bucks here or there and would rather get the right machine for my needs (wants) - all of these should last a lifetime, so it's really a buy-once cry-once situation!
Thanks. I have put quite a few hours on it since I got it. I have been happy with its performance.

If you go with a BX I would recommend the higher HP one. Others will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the higher HP one should give you more PTO HP. This would give you a few more options when operating and PTO driven implements.
 
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RCW

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Much of my 6 acres is not accessible to my tractor as it's very steep.

I bought a BX years ago. Often wish it was a B.

Over the years, been able to:

  • Mow w/ MMM
  • Snowblow w/ front mount blower - - gotten ~3 feet multiple occasions
  • Re-grade/rehab driveway w/ box blade - - 4 +/- times @ 20-40 ton each
  • Lift heavy items to/from truck with loader - 'Moline parts, gun safe, tool boxes, etc.
  • Used box blade to reprofile, regrade and reseed lawn after torn up by house renovations - ~1/3 acre
  • Haul/move mulch, top soil, leaves, etc around yard
  • Haul chipper to the brush piles with carry-all. Easier than hauling brush to chipper
  • Skid logs/trees/tops
  • Move patio-base materials with loader, then grade with box blade
  • Ripped out planters/plantings/shrubs/porch/stairs. Loader and 3PH drawbar.
I had a JD 425 Garden Tractor for years. 2 WD w/ mower, snowblower and push blade.

But for #1 and #2 above, I could not do many of the other tasks above.

I figured just the lawn grading/seeding project saved me about $2,000......

While I understand where some come from regarding a small mower tractor; there's many things they can't do.

At nearly 60 years of age, I'm not in any hurray to go back to that.

True, sometimes the Kubota is a very expensive wheelbarrow, but its my wheelbarrow...... ;);)
 
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Biker1mike

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Compared to most of the tractors on this site mine is the runt of the litter. My 15 hp with a supply of chains and straps has skidded out a lot of fire wood and brush. Without FEL I can use the plow or 3 point to lift and cut trees to length. It has back bladed a life time of stone and pushed snow.
Without the rear deck and in 2 wheel drive it turns in almost the same radius of a large garden tractor.
There are times I wish I had the FEl but that is life. If I need a back hoe I either rent or just pay the local landscaper.
For grass maint. I have the B, a rider, a power push mower, string trimmer, and hand clippers. Each tool has a situation where it works best.
Test drive and see what fits you and your property.
 

ve9aa

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An MX for 1.33 acres?

WOW, it sure is easy to spend someone else's money. o_O

I am far away from a tractor expert, but 1.33 ac in the city (imho) is not really "MX territory" is it? Really? :unsure:

I am not sure this would be my first concern, but are there "noise" rules/laws in the city?
I wonder which tractor is quieter? (ie: my BX is actually quieter than my TG - similar diesel engines though)
 
Aug 23, 2022
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Delmarva
An MX for 1.33 acres?

WOW, it sure is easy to spend someone else's money. o_O

I am far away from a tractor expert, but 1.33 ac in the city (imho) is not really "MX territory" is it? Really? :unsure:

I am not sure this would be my first concern, but are there "noise" rules/laws in the city?
I wonder which tractor is quieter? (ie: my BX is actually quieter than my TG - similar diesel engines though)
The noise ordinance here is vague, just states "plainly heard from 50 ft away", but no designation of decibel reading...
That said, equipment use falls under the construction clause, which basically permits all use between 7 am and 9 pm during the week, and 7 am to 5 pm during the weekends.

The 5 pm cutoff on weekends is annoying, and most people don't fuss if you're cutting the grass at 7:30 pm on a Saturday, but it only takes one angry neighbor...

The little New Holland WM25s I test drove was plenty loud enough to piss off a neighbor lol.
I'll have to see how the Kubotas compare!
 
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Freeheeler

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For the uses you've stated I doubt you'd be limited by pto HP, but I imagine that loader lifting power would be the limiting factor. I haven't looked at the lift capacity for the different BX models. Physical size wise they are about the same, the little B being physically larger. If you are going to be using forks for tree/brush removal you'd want the higher lift capacity. Remember to subtract the weight of the implement from the rated capacity to have an idea of what it can lift. For a quick estimate, take the loader model #, double it, then subtract the implement (bucket/forks/grapple) weight and that's approximately how many pounds you can lift.
 

PaulL

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Capacity comparisons here: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-vs-b01-vs-b50.36719/

I moved from a BX to a B. In my opinion there are no downsides to that move - they're basically the same size machine (length, width are very close), but the extra height gives the B much better geometry on the 3ph. My opinion is that the BX is sized to look/feel like a large rideon, for people who aren't comfortable with a tractor, or who's wives can be convinced into a large rideon but not a tractor. :)

If you don't have that constraint, no reason to get a BX. The difference in price is not much, the difference in capability is substantial. A B will do anything a BX will do - it'll fit in the same spaces, turn as tight etc. But there's lots of things a B will do that a BX won't - particularly when it comes to ground clearance and lifting things on the 3ph. The extra lift capacity on a B is also really useful if you're getting a grapple - it's hard to get a lot done with a grapple on a BX because the SSQA + grapple on their own eat up a lot of your lift capacity. The B is only 30% more FEL lift, but once there's a grapple on the remaining lift capacity is more like 50%
 
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