While I was testing out my DIY ballast barrel yesterday evening, I had a bit of an incident related to me not putting the washerss from pats QH on correctly. I was in High gear (Way to fast on my bumpy gravel/dirt driveway, I now know) and the the pins actually popped off one side of the barrel and began dragging with 1 lift arm and the top link attached. This actually bent my top link, as I could not get it to fit on the barrel as it did before. (Was at max length for it before) It also bent the pin a little on the barrel, which I could not believe seeing how thick it was, but I can hammer that back into shape compared to something with threads. I was planning to get the Countyline adjustable top link, extra long from TSC. As pats QH extends the lift arms 4 inches so I really am pushing it to the limit on the stock top link anyways. The issue is suddenly they don't have it at my store or even stock it it seems? They had it 5 weeks ago when I went in, but they were out when I went yesterday night. It isn't even available to ship to the store, which is strange. My only option is driving 1 hour to another store, or paying 19.99 for same day shipping, I cant even choose a normal shipping option. Ive never used TSC's website before, but it does not seem to work right when I look at other stuff on there, so I am not sure if this is a website issue or something else. Can any of you recommend any other vendors where I can order online or another common store these can be found at? I looked in the pinned posts on the forums, but cant find the longer top links on those links. I'd rather not order one from kubota, and I don't even think they have a long one. I saw one on amazon, but I wasn't sure if it was good to purchase this kind of stuff from there.
Bent Top Link
- Thread starter Trustable
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Why not just make your own ?
It does NOT have to be adjustable,
use 2 sections of 3/4 or 7/8 bar for the ends, 1by2 rect tubing for the 'body', drill 2 holes ,two welds, slap of paint, done.
costs nothing, saves you $58.99 + taxes and shipping.
It does NOT have to be adjustable,
use 2 sections of 3/4 or 7/8 bar for the ends, 1by2 rect tubing for the 'body', drill 2 holes ,two welds, slap of paint, done.
costs nothing, saves you $58.99 + taxes and shipping.
I never even thought about it to be honest, but that is a good idea. I am not sure if I trust my fab skills enough, especially not having a welder, and would have to purchase some steel.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Welder not necessary, just use long bolts(gr5) and nynuts. This bodge only require you to drill the 2 holes.Cut pipe to use as shims if you don't have a bucket of washers laying around. Shim as required to take out the 'slop'
I still have one of these 'fixed' top links on a carryall I made 3 decades ago, another on the 5' tiller,for 10 years. Some implements are 'set once and forget', pretty sure a 'ballast barrel' would qualify.
I still have one of these 'fixed' top links on a carryall I made 3 decades ago, another on the 5' tiller,for 10 years. Some implements are 'set once and forget', pretty sure a 'ballast barrel' would qualify.