Kubota l345 Engine removal info needed

[Calmachine831]

Hello, I have 2 kubota l345s. One is a 2wd with no loader and the other is a 4x4 with front end loader.

I need to put the engine from the 2wd l345 into the 4wd l345.

Need to gather into of what is involved before I begin. Does the axle need to come off ? loader needs to be off? Any tips or comments that help me out is appreciated. Need to get this tractor going asap as I need it around the farm.

can also email me jjgonza309@gmail.com
or 8315398298

 

[Russell King]

You will have to remove the loader subframe

The engine acts as part of the tractor frame and you will split the tractor at the rear of the engine (clutch bell housing) and remove the front axle from the front end of the engine.

I would suggest you split it at rear first but either should work.

Block the front axle to the engine so it won’t fall to the side when disconnected from the transmission and rear wheels.

Use some type of overhead crane or engine lift to remove engine and set on floor and then split the other tractor in similar fashion

 

[Calmachine831]

Dayum sounds like a ton of work. How do you properly remove the loader assembly or subframe so it come crushing down on me. That's seems like the biggest challenge to me

 

[Calmachine831]

sounds like a ton of work. How do you properly remove the loader assembly or subframe so it come crushing down on me. That's seems like the biggest challenge to me

 

[rbargeron]

Swapping out the engine is some wrenching, but its quite doable. If the loader on the 4wd is the Kubota Model 1720, most of it can stay in place.

I've split L345 and L355 4wd machines with the 1720 without removing the loader. There's a front "chin bar" that has to be unbolted, and the front pump if it has one. The pump can be turned by an electric drill to raise the bucket if needed.

Edit: Here's a copy-and-paste from 2011 about a clutch replacement that covers taking the engine and front axle away from the rest of it:

To do the clutch the loader can stay on. We raised it way up and put wood braces in to keep it there. Took off the hood, drained the transmission oil, unhooked the hydraulic pipes on the side of the engine and all the cables & wires going from engine to firewall, took out the 4 bolts holding the loader side frames to the chin bar, took out the bellhousing and starter bolts, and hammered a couple wood wedges in to keep the front axle from tilting.

Next we put blocks under the transmission to hold the back end of the tractor up - and put a rolling jack under the engine for rolling away the axle and engine. Don't overlook unbolting the steering rod and the strut from the radiator support back to the firewall.

Once the engine and axle are detached, the axle can be unbolted from the engine.

Pic below is a smaller tractor but the idea for leaving the loader on is the same. go slow, plan your moves, work safe. Ask questions anytime. Have fun, Dick B

 

[Calmachine831]

Swapping out the engine is some wrenching, but its quite doable. If the loader on the 4wd is the Kubota Model 1720, most of it can stay in place.

I've split L345 and L355 4wd machines with the 1720 without removing the loader. There's a front "chin bar" that has to be unbolted, and the front pump if it has one. The pump can be turned by an electric drill to raise the bucket if needed. Here's a link about clutch replacement that covers taking the engine and front axle away from the rest of it (wrong link - needs edit). Once the engine and axle are detached, the axle can be unbolted from the engine.

Pic below is a smaller tractor but the idea for leaving the loader on is the same. go slow, plan your moves, work safe. Ask questions anytime. Have fun, Dick B

View attachment 85296

Thanks man you wouldn't happen to live around monterey county California? lol

 

[rbargeron]

No - I'm in MA - I just edited post #5 write-up of procedure. Any questions - fire away.

 

[D2Cat]

Thanks man you wouldn't happen to live around monterey county California? lol

Now you're trying to hire it out and get out of all that learning experience!!!

 

[Russell King]

Here is a clever way to support the tractor during the split

HST Swap out

Easier the thought / still a big job / transmission jack a must /

www.orangetractortalks.com

If you don’t have a concrete floor it would help to get it onto some wood structure

 

[Calmachine831]

You will have to remove the loader subframe

The engine acts as part of the tractor frame and you will split the tractor at the rear of the engine (clutch bell housing) and remove the front axle from the front end of the engine.

I would suggest you split it at rear first but either should work.

Block the front axle to the engine so it won’t fall to the side when disconnected from the transmission and rear wheels.

Use some type of overhead crane or engine lift to remove engine and set on floor and then split the other tractor in similar fashion

how exactly do you block the axle to the engine. Several people already said to do that but wrap my head around it

 

[Pau7220]

Think doorstop style wedges jammed between the axle and frame (or engine depending on model) to keep it from pivoting. The rear axle holds the engine vertical. If you don’t “block it”, there may be a dangerous klunk when you split the tractor which can cause injuries.

 

[Russell King]

how exactly do you block the axle to the engine. Several people already said to do that but wrap my head around it

If you look at the front axle on the 2wd and jack up on one side of axle you will see that there is a rod pivot point that provides some suspension for the front wheels to be able to follow the ground (go down into holes or rise up over a rock)

When bolted to the rear axle (through the frame) the engine is held vertical by the two rear wheels. But when you split the engine from the rear axle it can fall to either side on that pivot rod.

So putting some wooden wedges between the front axle and the engine or front frame structure will keep the engine vertical.

You could probably get fancy and build something to support the engine attached at the top and angled down to the front axle but blocking it is the simple way

Sorry for such a long description of a simple idea that @Pau7220 described in many fewer words!

 

[Calmachine831]

Why can't the engine be unbolted from the axle without splitting?

 

[rbargeron]

The axle can be taken away from the engine without "splitting" anywhere else.

There are several places along the length of the tractor where it can be split. The factory manuals refer to it as "separation".

One such place is at the rear of the engine (most often separated there for changing the clutch).

Another separation point is to take the front axle and the front BRACKET away from the engine (which can still be connected to the transmission). In your case the bracket will be transfered to the new engine so may as well remain attached to the 4wd front axle which is also being re-used.

For your L345's look closely at Post #5 above - with the loader in place it's lower support bar can be unbolted and the front axle and engine can be rolled away together. Then the engine and axle can be separated.

If you prefer, the engine can stay in place - the axle and the loader's lower support bar can be taken away with the engine still bolted to the trans.

With two tractors dismantled, you're going to have quite a pile of parts, but there should be everything needed to complete the changeover. Best luck. Dick B

 

[Calmachine831]

The axle can be taken away from the engine without "splitting" anywhere else.

There are several places along the length of the tractor where it can be split. The factory manuals refer to it as "separation".

One such place is at the rear of the engine (most often separated there for changing the clutch).

Another separation point is to take the front axle and the front BRACKET away from the engine (which can still be connected to the transmission). In your case the bracket will be transfered to the new engine so may as well remain attached to the 4wd front axle which is also being re-used.

For your L345's look closely at Post #5 above - with the loader in place it's lower support bar can be unbolted and the front axle and engine can be rolled away together. Then the engine and axle can be separated.

If you prefer, the engine can stay in place - the axle and the loader's lower support bar can be taken away with the engine still bolted to the trans.

With two tractors dismantled, you're going to have quite a pile of parts, but there should be everything needed to complete the changeover. Best luck. Dick B

View attachment 85953

I'm getting somewhat confused, I thought in order to remove the front gear case cover the tractor had to be separated(engine attached to axle and roll it forward). I just need to remove the front engine cover but in oder to to that I need to removed the pulley and the axle bracket is in the way. Not doing and engine swap if I can fix the problem with the 4wd l345 which has coolant in the oil which I suspect is a bad frost plug behind the cover. help appreciated thanks for patience

 

[Russell King]

You have asked for information on engine swap but now you’re on to only cover removal. For the front cover removal do not split it at rear just remove the front axle for that.

Sorry for confusion

 

[rbargeron]

Now I get the plan - if you can fix the 4wd's engine, the swap is off.

On all the early Kubota L models with 4wd, the front axle needs to come off to get the front timing cover off the engine. The axle and bracket can remain attached to each other and roll away once the front driveshaft and steering rod etc. are disconnected.

Here's a pic from the L355 manual showing the "split" at that location: