Lowering Brake Pedal pad height on BX - any reason not to?

[CountryBumkin]

I don't know why the Brake Pedal pad is so far off the floorboard. Even "Paul Short" commented on how high you need to lift your leg to get your foot on the brake pedal in his BX video series.

Is there any reason why one could not cut 3 inches of the brake pedal arm - so then you could get your toes to rest on (or touch) the pedal pad while the heel of your foot rests on the floor board?

It looks like shortening the pedal by 3 inches would still provide plenty of clearance between the bottom of the pedal and the floor when the pedal is fully depressed (there would be about 2 inches of space to allow for brake wear and some additional pedal travel).

Am I missing something obvious? Or is this a modification worth doing?

I think the operation of the tractor would be safer if I could have a foot (toes) resting on the pedal while the heel of my foot rests on the floor, in case I need to use it.

 

[GWD]

I don't know why the Brake Pedal pad is so far off the floorboard. Even "Paul Short" commented on how high you need to lift your leg to get your foot on the brake pedal in his BX video series.

Is there any reason why one could not cut 3 inches of the brake pedal arm - so then you could get your toes to rest on (or touch) the pedal pad while the heel of your foot rests on the floor board?

It looks like shortening the pedal by 3 inches would still provide plenty of clearance between the bottom of the pedal and the floor when the pedal is fully depressed (there would be about 2 inches of space to allow for brake wear and some additional pedal travel).

Am I missing something obvious? Or is this a modification worth doing?

I think the operation of the tractor would be safer if I could have a foot (toes) resting on the pedal while the heel of my foot rests on the floor, in case I need to use it.

A couple of things:

> A shorter pedal will provide proportionally less leverage on the pedal and thus the braking ability. You might not be able to sufficiently "fully engage" the brakes. And maybe not enough to set the brake lock.

> Resting your toe (or foot) on the brake pedal will ultimately result in riding the brake. Thus causing significant brake wear as well as causing the tractor to work harder. Yeah, I know..."I'll just barely touch the pedal". That is what those car drivers say that have continuously glowing brake lights on the highway.

> Quickly lifting the "go" pedal on my BX2200 will bring it to an abrupt stop. No brake needed in most cases.

 

[Orangeglow]

Interesting this thread appeared on here. I just bought a new BX2370 a while back, and was wondering the same thing as the OP.
Personally, I cann,t seem to find a good reason for the brake pedal to be that high either. I,m surprised the Kubota engineers wouldn,t have shorted the pedal considerably, especially when they could have saved another 50 cents in material per tractor.

 

[cerlawson]

There is one darn good reason for not fooling with it. I do not know of more accidents like this, but I did see where a guy was operating on a top of a slope and apparently going back and forth (perhaps compacting). His foot slipped off the brake and hit the forward pedal. Over the bank he went.

With significant difference in the location of the brake vesus forward pedal, there is less chance of this happening in a critical situation.

 

[ipz2222]

bumpkin,, same complaint here. Mine will be shorter in the near future.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Cant install a peg lower down to suit your needs? Either as a footrest or on brake lever, leaving original pedal intact for hard braking.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm really not understanding why you would even need to use the brake pedal on a HST?

 

[armylifer]

I'm really not understanding why you would even need to use the brake pedal on a HST?

I agree with Wolfman. I have never had to use the brake for anything except to park the tractor.

 

[Toyboy]

I agree with Wolfman. I have never had to use the brake for anything except to park the tractor.

Same here.

 

[Dr Honda]

A couple of things:

> A shorter pedal will provide proportionally less leverage on the pedal and thus the braking ability. You might not be able to sufficiently "fully engage" the brakes. And maybe not enough to set the brake lock.

> Resting your toe (or foot) on the brake pedal will ultimately result in riding the brake. Thus causing significant brake wear as well as causing the tractor to work harder. Yeah, I know..."I'll just barely touch the pedal". That is what those car drivers say that have continuously glowing brake lights on the highway.

> Quickly lifting the "go" pedal on my BX2200 will bring it to an abrupt stop. No brake needed in most cases.

yep... what he said.

Besides... is it really that hard to lift your foot up the 6" to push the pedal?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

There is another reason to use the brake on an hst tractor. There are only two ways to stop the tractor when using the cruise control. 1. Increase speed using the hst pedal. 2. Step on the brake. Stepping on the reverse pedal will do nothing!!! I suspect the cruise control is being used to mow, and operators are leaving the tractor in cruise control when close to obstructions. They need to keep there foot on or close to the brake to stop in an emergency.

I do not use my tractor to mow, but I do use it for snowblowing. I have a couple of 1/2 mile runs where I use the cruise control and I have started using the brake to take it off cruise control to make the brake the normal method. However, I always take it out of cruise control near obstructions anyway as even a subcompact tractor is to heavy to be bumping into obstructions.

I have no plans to modify my brake pedal, but you do have to consider how quickly and safely you can disengage the cruise control in an emergency.

 

[RCW]

I'm really not understanding why you would even need to use the brake pedal on a HST?

My BX is part Mountain Goat - I do need the brake, but rarely.

I still wouldn't mess with the linkage configuration, however.

 

[CountryBumkin]

It's more about getting your foot on the pedal quickly when necessary. Not to keep one's toe on the pedal or for use as a foot rest.

I don't need the brakes 95% of the time, but when I need to hit it, I want my foot on the pedal as quick as possible. Lifting my foot the extra 6 inches takes more time. If I am working close to building (or anything I don't want to hit) I want to be able to hit brakes quickly. And holding my foot over the pedal, just in case I need it, isn't going to work either.

Just thinking about it -

 

[Dr Honda]

It's more about getting your foot on the pedal quickly when necessary. Not to keep one's toe on the pedal or for use as a foot rest.

I don't need the brakes 95% of the time, but when I need to hit it, I want my foot on the pedal as quick as possible. Lifting my foot the extra 6 inches takes more time. If I am working close to building (or anything I don't want to hit) I want to be able to hit brakes quickly. And holding my foot over the pedal, just in case I need it, isn't going to work either.

Just thinking about it -

OK... not to sound like an a$$. But slow down if you are that close to other objects, so there won't be a "Panic" situation. Simple.

 

[CRG2]

If you don't do any precision work behind your tractor and have no need for quick braking without having time to turn around, your opinion is not helpful, nor needed here. I connect to chicken tractors sometimes on a slope and don't want to bump, even at the slowest speed, to avoid injuring my birds.

I can't hover my boot over the brake pedal that high to keep from going to far, but I did wrap some sticky grip around the bar so my foot can grab that if i need an instant stop.

I'm not keen on adjusting the length for all the non-snarky reasons listed above, but I'm thinking I can fashion a cover for the whole brake pedal assembly with accordion style sides and some sort of nob or lip sticking out in a better spot to grab blindly. Then I can grab that in a in a hurry, when working behind me, as well as maintain ability to mash the main pedal to the floor as normal when working in forward directions.

There might be a nylon vent cover for metal roofs that is the right size. It would probably need to be stuffed with a chunk of pool noodle to keep in place. I'll post an update when I get something working.

 

[Dieseldonato]

If you don't do any precision work behind your tractor and have no need for quick braking without having time to turn around, your opinion is not helpful, nor needed here. I connect to chicken tractors sometimes on a slope and don't want to bump, even at the slowest speed, to avoid injuring my birds.

I can't hover my boot over the brake pedal that high to keep from going to far, but I did wrap some sticky grip around the bar so my foot can grab that if i need an instant stop.

I'm not keen on adjusting the length for all the non-snarky reasons listed above, but I'm thinking I can fashion a cover for the whole brake pedal assembly with accordion style sides and some sort of nob or lip sticking out in a better spot to grab blindly. Then I can grab that in a in a hurry, when working behind me, as well as maintain ability to mash the main pedal to the floor as normal when working in forward directions.

There might be a nylon vent cover for metal roofs that is the right size. It would probably need to be stuffed with a chunk of pool noodle to keep in place. I'll post an update when I get something working.

6 year old thread mate....